When vehicle is off the ammeter flickers back and forth

Hi,

If it stays on, chances are there is a short to power at some point. It could be in the instrument panel itself.

Here is a link that explains how to find and repair a parasitic draw. Take a look through it and let me know if it helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Also, let me know if it is only the one gauge acting this way or if there are other things.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

The instrument panel cluster (IPC) displays the system voltage as detected at the ignition 1 input of the IPC. Since that is the only thing being affected, it is likely a short in the cluster.

Let's try this. Remove the ignition 1 fuse and see if it changes what happens. I attached the wiring schematic below. I had to cut it in half to make it readable, but I did overlap it so you can follow from one to the next.

Pic 3 below shows the fuse and ignition 1 relay. Make sure to check the relay as well. Here is a link to help. The relay itself may be bad.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Did you check the connection at the cluster? See pic 3 below and check these connections as well.

If everything is tight and in good condition, chances are, the cluster needs to be replaced. They had a few years that had problems. Most fell between 2003 and 2006, but earlier years were affected as well.

Take a look through the diagnostics below. They are for an inoperative IP, but it will help. Also, if you haven't already, you really should scan the can-bus. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, the computers/modules are all tied together via a few wires. This type of scan will identify codes regardless of the module storing them. Here is a video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Let me know if that has been done and if the diagnostics below help.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Robert,

Unfortunately, we are to keep everything online. As far as the step you are having trouble with, here is what to do.

Disconnect the IPC connector. There is an ignition 1 voltage pin and a ground pin at that plug. You are simply jumping your test light between two pins to see if it lights.

If you look at the pic below, I highlighted the two pins you need to check. One will be battery power and the other is a ground.

Let me know if this helps, or what I can do to help.

Take care and let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

If you have good power and ground as indicated, there is likely a short in the cluster itself. Now keep in mind, there could be a faulty wire to the cluster that when moved is causing this issue. Note: I am assuming that the power turns off when the key is in the off position.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

A6 is a ground pin. Check that for continuity to ground. It shouldn't have power.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. And yes, it is normal for some to have power. Can you let me know which pins are getting power?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

That is correct. That pin supplies battery voltage. By chance, did you check for power at B6? If you did and there was none, see if it gets power when you crank the engine. Also, let me know if you have continuity to the grounds. (Pin A6)

Joe

Hi,

It sounds like you may have found the problem. If you supply a new ground to A6, does it rectify the issues?

Let me know.

Joe