Battery will not charge

Hello,

This could be a problem with the wiring going from the alternator to the battery. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's charging system. Please double check that all the wires are tight and connected securely, as well as the electrical connectors from the alternator to the battery. I have them highlighted on the wiring diagram for you. Please get back to us with what you are able to find.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

It's an integral regulator, meaning it's bolted to the back of your alternator. Use a voltmeter at the battery terminals, see what the alt is putting out, you want 13.8-15 volts with all lights and accessories on. If OK replace battery, if weak replace both battery and alt! You want a fully charged battery in place with a new alternator, or you can damage the new alternator!

Good morning.

Attached is a diagram for the charging system. The light is controlled by a fuse in the junction box. That is what powers the light.
Check for power on both sides of the fuse and then check for power at the connector for the cluster. It could be the cluster or it may be just the fuse.

Roy

Follow the orange with lt. Blue wire from the alternator and look for a 20amp inline fuse and check that.
Also check all the fuses in the under dash fuse box. There is a 10amp fuse there associated with the alternator but I don't know what it's labeled. Use a test light to check them all for power at both ends with the key on.

If you don't want to listen I'll just go help someone else. Good luck.

I'm sorry. I got the impression you disagreed and blew off the checks.

The alternator is a self contained unit so if all the inputs and outputs are correct, then it has to charge, assuming the alternator is good.

Verify power coming in on the orange/lt blue and the lg/red with the key one. Verify there power at the main terminal with the key off and that the alternator is grounded.

Green red comes from the fuse in the dash box through the charge light in the dash so it could be interrupted at the back of the cluster. It's white/yellow from the fuse to the light.

Glad you found it.

I don't need money but if you can leave another positive or fix the feedback it would be nice. I don't even know if that is possible.

Does the "Battery" warning light turn on when you turn on the ignition switch? Does it turn off once the engine is running? How was the generator tested and what were the results?

Go the voltage regulator's plug and check for 12 volts on the yellow / white wire by back-probing through the rubber weather seal. If that's missing, the 20-amp fuse is blown.

Check for 12 volts on the generator's large output terminal. If that's missing, it will be missing on the yellow / white wire too. Check the 175-amp fuse and be sure its nuts are tight.

If you have both of those, check for voltage on the light green / red wire when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. You should find around 2.0 volts. If you find it's near 12 volts and the dash warning light is not on, there's a bad connection between the mating terminals in that plug.

If all those voltages are okay, run the engine, then measure the battery voltage. You should find between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it stays near 12.6 volts or less, ground the "F" terminal on the back of the voltage regulator. If charging voltage goes way up, the regulator is defective.