1992 Acura Integra Intermittent No-Start

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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
Check the battery cable connections for corrosion at the battery and starter first. Check the ground connections from the battery to the frame and body.

Could be an ignition switch, lock cylinder, or both problem. Is the lock cylinder loose and sloppy?
Could be the starter relay.
Starter Relay-is on the rear center of the engine compartment, at the right rear of the heater unit.
Could be the starter solenoid.
Could be the starter.

This is the test procedure you need to follow.

With the key held in the start position test for 12 volts at the black and white wire going to the starter relay. No voltage = bad ignition switch. Voltage = next test.

With the key held in the start position, Check for voltage at the black wire coming off the clutch interlock switch. No voltage = bad swtch. Voltage = next test.

With the key held in the start position, Check for voltage at either the black and red wire coming off the relay to the starter or the black and white wire at the solenoid. No voltage = bad relay. Voltage = have starter and solenoid tested. Depending where you are located some parts houses offer starter/solenoid testing service free of charge.

The wire colors are from my book. No gaurantee they will match yours tho.

Good luck and let us know what you find. :)
Mar 11, 2006 at 8:37 AM
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ACURA92_92
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Greetings. I've got a '92 acura integra with 185K worth of miles. It's been a great car (and will be for awhile, I hope). My problem is intermittent, which makes it impossible to take to a mechanic. About every other week, I'll hop in the car and it won't start. The car has power - it's not an issue of juice. The lights on the dash come on, but I get nothing. (no clicking, no anything) I originally thought that my clutch switch was going bad, but the clutch switch is fine (it behaves differently if you don't have the clutch in). If you keep turning the key to the 'start' position, it will eventually turn the starter. Sometimes it takes 3 seconds worth of trying and sometimes it takes a couple of minutes ... but it always eventually starts. And once it turns the starter, it starts and runs beautifully. I'm assuming the issue is either the starter relay, main relay, or (less likely) the starter itself. Can you discern which it would be and the location of such relay if that is what it is? Your help is most appreciated - I learned a great deal from reading through the forums about my car. Thanks!!
Mar 10, 2006 at 10:32 PM
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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
Check the battery cable connections for corrosion at the battery and starter first. Check the ground connections from the battery to the frame and body.

Could be an ignition switch, lock cylinder, or both problem. Is the lock cylinder loose and sloppy?
Could be the starter relay.
Starter Relay-is on the rear center of the engine compartment, at the right rear of the heater unit.
Could be the starter solenoid.
Could be the starter.

This is the test procedure you need to follow.

With the key held in the start position test for 12 volts at the black and white wire going to the starter relay. No voltage = bad ignition switch. Voltage = next test.

With the key held in the start position, Check for voltage at the black wire coming off the clutch interlock switch. No voltage = bad swtch. Voltage = next test.

With the key held in the start position, Check for voltage at either the black and red wire coming off the relay to the starter or the black and white wire at the solenoid. No voltage = bad relay. Voltage = have starter and solenoid tested. Depending where you are located some parts houses offer starter/solenoid testing service free of charge.

The wire colors are from my book. No gaurantee they will match yours tho.

Good luck and let us know what you find. :)
Mar 11, 2006 at 8:37 AM
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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
Oops. Welcome to the froum. :oops:
Mar 11, 2006 at 8:38 AM
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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:
Keep clear of any possible moving engine parts in case you motor decides to start unexpectedly.
:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:
Mar 11, 2006 at 8:40 AM

Suggested Repair

Check battery cable connections at the battery and starter and the battery-to-frame and body grounds for corrosion. If those are good, hold the key in start and voltage-test the circuit: no voltage on the black/white wire at the starter relay points to the ignition switch; no voltage on the black wire at the clutch interlock switch points to that switch; no voltage on the relay output or solenoid wire points to the starter relay. The starter relay is at the rear center of the engine compartment, right rear of the heater. If voltage reaches the solenoid, have the starter and solenoid tested. Also check whether the ignition lock cylinder is loose. Stay clear of moving engine parts during testing. Wire colors are from a manual and may not match this car.

Conversation Summary

The owner of a 1992 Acura Integra with about 185,000 miles reports an intermittent no-crank every couple of weeks. Dash lights come on and there is no click, but repeated turns of the key to start eventually engage the starter, after which the car starts and runs normally. The owner had already checked the clutch switch and suspected the starter relay, main relay, or starter. The expert recommends inspecting battery cables and grounds first, then a keyed voltage test to isolate the ignition switch, clutch interlock switch, starter relay, solenoid, or starter, and notes the starter relay location. Wire colors may not match the vehicle.

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