I'm sorry that I gave you incorrect information. This alarm system is different from most systems. In fact, the key in the door will not turn the system off.
The next question is how did it get turned on if you don't have a key fob? If you recognize what normal flashing of the dash light looks like when the system is activated, and it's flashing faster now, that would indicate the computer detected a problem and set a diagnostic fault code. You'll be able to see the types of things it looks for, and the tests to diagnose the system, in the charts below. I know this isn't going to help you a lot, especially since these all require the dealer's scanner. Many aftermarket scanners should also be able to read any diagnostic fault codes. Those don't tell you what's wrong. They only indicate the circuit that needs further diagnosis. If you read through these tests, you can do most of the tests yourself with a digital volt/ohm meter.
If it will help, here's a link to an article on how to use a voltmeter:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
They're using a fairly expensive "auto-ranging" meter here. You can find a perfectly fine, less-expensive one at Harbor Freight Tools for around $8.00 or less. I can help you set it up if necessary.
The advantage you have is there's only a half dozen circuits to test. There can be three or four dozen for Engine Computers which makes it impractical to diagnose problems without fault codes to get you started.
Consider disconnecting the negative battery cable first. Wait at least five minutes, then reconnect it and see if the alarm reset. That should erase any fault codes unless there is a constant defect being detected such as would be caused by a broken wire or defective switch.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2020 AT 4:55 PM
