Starter doesn't turn over at all?

Can't help with it's location, but it sounds like the solenoid contacts are worn. Usually the problem is intermittent for a long time, so it should crank if you cycle the ignition switch from "run" to "crank" multiple times.

To find a hiding starter, follow the positive battery cable to it.

Caradiodoc

Solenoid contacts are the high current switch contacts built into the starter motor. If they are causing the problem, you will feel the starter engage if you touch it while a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank". This is a real common problem with Nippendenso starters used on Toyotas, Nissans, and Chryslers, so I'm wondering if they're used on Hondas too.

Try to figure out exactly what it is you're hearing.

Caradiodoc

This is more common in the Nippendenso starters, but it can happen to any starter. You can try looking for parts at the Honda dealer, but often they will only offer rebuilt starters. If you're in or near a good size city, there will likely be a rebuilder who can sell you replacement parts. I get mine from a place callled TJ Rebuilders in Schofield, WI. I'm pretty sure they have a web site.

Before tearing into it, let's be sure that's what youre hearing. While a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank", measure the voltage on the two wires on the starter. Both must have full battery voltage. If they do, it's the solenoid contacts or the motor itself. The contacts will be the cause 99 percent of the time.

Caradiodoc

Elaborate on the symptoms and observations. Does the starter relay or solenoid click? Do the head lights stay bright? What have you checked so far?

Caradiodoc

Many of these cars don't use a separate starter relay. If yours does, unplug it and use a test light to measure the voltage on the four terminals. One should have 12 volts all the time and one should have 12 volts when you turn the ignition switch to "crank".

For the two remaining terminals, ground the test light clip lead to the POSITIVE battery post, then probe them. The light should light up on both of them indicating a good ground. Look for one of those four wires that doesn't give the correct result.

If your car doesn't use a starter relay, test right on the small terminal on the starter while a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank". If no voltage appears, suspect a problem with the neutral safety switch, (automatic transmission), or clutch switch, (manual transmission). Be sure the switch is not unplugged.

Caradiodoc

This is amazing! Apparently this is some top secret information that everyone refuses to answer. I've been searching the web for over an hour and I've found pictures of the part but no information. By the looks of it, it appears it could go on the transmission over the selector shaft or it might mount on the shift lever in the center console. I posted a question on a few other forums, and I'll get back to you if I get a reply.

I think I'm including a photo of the switch. Haven't tried this before. Judging from the plated bracket on the cable, I have a feeling you're going to find this guy by the selector shaft on the transmission.

Caradiodoc

Apparently not. Part numbers and photos are quite different.

Caradiodoc

OK, let's go back to the basics. There are two wires on the starter. The biggest one goes straight back to the battery's positive post. Use a test light with the clip lead on a clean, paint-free surface on the engine, then put the probe on the large starter terminal. The test light should light up all the time.

Use a screwdriver blade, the test light probe, or a piece of wire to temporarily connect the smaller wire on the starter to the big cable. Be sure the transmission is in park because that jumper should make the starter work. If it cranks, we will know the high-current circuit is working. That includes the battery cables

caradiodoc

Let's be sure you're jumping the starter correctly. Here's a diagram I drew for this purpose. If you're doing this with the starter still bolted to the engine, all you need is the blue jumper wire. If the starter is on the workbench, connect the negative jumper cable between the starter case and the negative post of the battery, and the red jumper cable between the battery positive post and the battery terminal on the starter. (The battery terminal is next to the small solenoid terminal. Do not use the terminal that has the fat, usually braided cable going into the motor housing).

Connect a clip lead or other jumper wire to the solenoid terminal. Hold onto the starter if it is off the engine, then touch the jumper wire to the battery terminal. If the starter spins, it is working properly. If the drive gear pops out but the motor doesn't spin, the solenoid contacts are worn and must be replaced. If nothing happens but there is a small spark when you touch the jumper wire, one of the two solenoid coils is defective or the drive gear's shaft is rusted and the gear is sticking. If there is no spark, the solenoid coil is defective.

Caradiodoc