1995 Acura Integra Engine lack of power, speedometer not wo

Hi bmx4637,

1. For an engine to act this way, there must be something very wrong with the control. Have you checked the ignition timing and timing belt installation? If you are not able to get the correct ignition timing, the timing belt could be out of sync.

2. For a manual vehicle, there should be no such occurrence unless the clutch is slipping.

3. Vehicle speed sensor is attached to the transaxle and not known as wheel speed sensor. Hope you got the correct item. If the speedometer is not in sync with the road speed, either the speedometer is inaccurate, transmission has been replaced with one of different gear ratios or the road wheels are not of the correct specs.

4. Which Honda guy told you all Honda uses MAF? Except the latest models, no Honda uses MAF. What they have is MAP which is located on top of the intake manifold for your model.

The air cleaner does not have any electrical components except for late 90's or 2000 and later year models where an Intake Air Temperature sensor is used. If anything is missing, the ECU would record the fault and trouble codes can be retrieved.

Quite often there are excess wire connectors for transmission controls, accessories and are not used for some models. Unless the ECU ias telling you some thing is malfunctioning, there should be nothing to worry about.

If the engine is running correctly, the mileage should increase.

I am a little under the weather at the moment so will try to answer as best as I could and if I miss out anything, please remind me.

The speedometer comes as a complete cluster assy.

Let me know all the additional wire color codes. Seems the wireharness is for an automatic and those wires are likely to be for the transmission sensors.

The erratic idling will be left as it is till we figure out the CEL codes.

7 quick blinks should be Code 7. A fault with the Throttle Position Sensor. This would cause the lack of power and erratic idling.

A long Blink followed by 7 short flash = 17. A fault with the VSS.

Low idling are mostly caused by a dirty throttle body, Idle Air Control valve and idling speed adjustment. Get the throttle body and IAC cleaned and readjust the idling speed.

Thanks, feeling better now.

As to the speedometer accuracy, unless the meter cluster had been replaced before, otherwise it should not be giving a wrong reading. The VSS would only provide the pulsing for the meter and the reading is controlled by the chips inside the cluster assy.

You might have to test with another cluster to confirm.

Replacing the distributor would only affect the performance if the ignition timing is retarded but if it was replaced 1 year ago and did not have have any problem till now, it is not likely to be the cause.

Reconfirm the trouble code. A long pause is a temporary stop for the next code whereas a short pause would be a continuation of the same code, usually after a long blink which denotes a count of ten ( 10 ).

Yes, the codes is 7 and 17.

Clear the codes and retest if the same codes come back. If yes, the VSS and throttle position sensor or their scircuit are faulty.

Here are the procedures for testing the TPS.

CODE 7 - THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR

1 . Turn ignition off. Remove BACK-UP fuse (7.5-amp) from underhood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset ECM. Retrieve codes. If Code 7 does not appear, problem is intermittent. Inspect for poor or loose connections at throttle position sensor, left and right shock towers, and ECM connectors. Test-drive vehicle and retest.

2 . If MIL is on and indicates Code 7, turn ignition off. Unplug 3-pin connector from throttle position sensor. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between Yellow/Blue (+) and Green/Blue (-) wire terminals. If voltage is not about 5 volts, go to step 6). If voltage is about 5 volts, turn ignition off. Reconnect sensor wiring.

3 . Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between test terminals D11 (+) and D22 (-). Voltage should be about 0.5 volt at closed throttle, and about 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. Transition from 0.5 to 4.5 volts (as throttle is opened) should be smooth. If voltage and operation is correct, temporarily substitute known good ECM, then retest system.

4 . If sensor voltages are not correct on M/T models, go to next step. If sensor voltages are not correct on A/T models, unplug 22-pin connector from Transmission Control Module (TCM). Again measure voltages. If voltages and operation are not correct, go to next step. If voltages and operation are correct, temporarily substitute known good TCM, then retest system.

5 . On all models, replace throttle position sensor or repair Red/Blue wire between ECM terminal D11, TCM (if equipped), and throttle position sensor.

6 . If voltage between Yellow/Blue (+) and Green/Blue (-) wire terminals in step 2) was not about 5 volts, measure voltage between Yellow/Blue wire terminal (+) and body ground. If voltage is about 5 volts, repair open in Green/Blue wire between ECM terminal D22 and throttle position sensor.

7 . If voltage is not about 5 volts, measure voltage between test terminals D20 (+) and D22 (-). If voltage is about 5 volts, repair open in Yellow/White wire terminal between ECM connector terminal D20 and throttle position sensor. If voltage is not about 5 volts, inspect for short in Yellow/Blue wire. If wire is okay, temporarily substitute known good ECM, then retest system.

Try adjusting the TPS. Seems it is out of adjustment.
Adjust it to 0.49 to 0.5 V, with throttle fully closed and the problem shoud be solved.

With the volt meter attached, loosen the TPS and turn it anti clockwise till the desired voltage is achieved and retighten. Retest the voltage reading.

If the TPS had been removed before, check that the slots are seated correctly.