The car stopped blowing cold air?

Thank you for the information. Do you know where I might be able to gather the information needed to replace the Evap? I'm guessing the entire dash is going to have to come out which is something I've never attempted before. Done just about everything else, but never a dash removal. Thanks again for the information.

Hi guys, in addition to the leak that still hasn't been found I've come across an issue that I or by a friend who is a Ford mechanic can't seem to figure out. Real quick rundown. The A/C in the Genesis Coupe has been working fine for the four years we've had it. Well, out of the blue the A/C stopped blowing cold air as the previous week it was working fine. Anyway, my son took the car and my friend purged the system and refilled it with R134, oil, and dye. The air conditioner worked fine for a couple days and then stopped working again, only blowing ambient air. Took it back to my friend who, again, purged the system and refilled with R134, oil, and dye, but after this time the AC still would not blow cool air. My friend said the compressor wasn't cutting on. He tried to get the readings of the pressure sensors on the high and low side but the reader he had wouldn't show the pressures. Checked all of the fuses. All good. Couldn't find a dedicated fuse/relay for the A/C which I thought was odd. I know when I turn the AC switch on the RPMs fluctuate a little like the switch is sending a signal. Any ideas or have any direction to point me in while trying to figure out the new issue? Many thanks' guys for the help.

Thank you for the reply. The A/C unit. It has both an On/Off button AND an Automatic button on the center console. The clutch. A friend of mine who is an ASE certified mechanic said the compressor didn't have a clutch on it. Personally, I'm not sure how the compressor is designed other than I know there is not stationary disk on the front of the clutch that cycles on and off as the compressor is running. I did ask my friend about the ECM, and he said it was possible but not likely. He ran a CAN diagnostic on it with a ZEUS automotive scanner made by Snap On and no codes showed up. The reader was not able to read the pressure sensors on the high and low side sensors. He had the high/low side gauges on it, and they never fluctuated at any point the A/C switch was on, so the compressor was getting the signal based of the fluctuation in the RPM's when the A/C was turned on, but it just was not cutting on. I should also mention that the blower motor would not running either I've wondered whether or not the vent doors for the cold air and heat are stuck and not opening shutting, but that wouldn't be the case because the high/low side pressures weren't fluctuating. It's just very odd that the unit can be purged and refilled with R134, oil, and Dye one weekend and the AC blows cold air as it should, but two weeks later the same process is done, and the A/C doesn't work (as far as blowing cold air)
I could be very wrong about this but for some reason I seem to recall something on the compressor that is known to go bad. Maybe an A/C control valve?
Thanks again for the assistance

My apologies, but to add to the above I verified that the clutch was getting power to it by checking the connection to the control valve. Oddly I don't know whether this is a clutch less compressor or not. I've heard some say that even clutch-less compressors have a clutch with the clutch for the clutch-less compressors being the control valve. So I don't know. I do know the compressor is a Doowan DVE16. Hoping like heck it's the control valve that is the issue. While running the entire front of the compressor is moving, including the center bolt. It's my understanding that if the center bolt of a clutch-less compressor isn't moving with the pulley turning then that means it's been sheared off on the inside. Thanks again guys

Thanks for the reply. Right now, the temperature outside is 77 degrees F
The low sides static pressure is showing around 66 degrees F and the high side static pressure is showing around 70 degrees F. Keep in mind the outdoor temperature reading I got if from a weather temperature located downtown, so it's likely the reading is a little higher there than it is here.

Okay, so just to add to the above. My son drove the car today and turned the A/C on to see if it would work and, of course, it didn't. This evening after the car cooled off, I checked the static readings again and with the air temperature at around 75 degrees F the low pressure read 83 and the high pressure read 80. Also, I have verified that the pressure sensor on then high pressure side is in the open position, and I could not find a pressure sensor on the low side, and I followed the line all the way from the compressor to the little metal box on the firewall (I guess the expansion valve)
Also, I did verify that there are a couple of wires running to just behind the compressor pulley so I'm guessing those wires activate the clutch. The connection at the control valve in the rear of the compressor gets power when the A/C switch is turned on. The clutch is engaged constantly and does not cycle on and off, so I know that it is a big red flag.
Apologies for all of this info but I'm just trying to provide as much info as possible. Again, thank you for your help.

Thank you. There is no change in the pressure on the high or low side when the car is running, and the A/C is on. I've checked that multiple times. The clutch is not cycling at all (as would be indicated by fluctuating pressure readings as the compressor cycles on and off) but turning constantly with the compressor regardless, so the clutch appears constantly engaged regardless of whether the A/C switch is on or off. Oddly with the last static pressure reading when I disengaged the manifold testing coupling from the high-pressure side a noticeable amount of oil came out. Hoping it could be something other than a faulty compressor, but it's not looking good. The compressor itself isn't a big issue to replace but the other things than have to be replaced is a sig additional cost. My son has a friend who has the same type of car and fork kicks I'm going to watch his compressor and its function with the A/C on and the A/C off. Thank you again.

Thank you again. Yes, the clutch appears to be staying engaged constantly with the A/C on or off. That being said if the A/C clutch was constantly engaged wouldn't the A/C blow cold air if the compressor itself was working properly?

Hey Joe,

My son's friend, who also has a 2015 Genesis Coupe, said his entire compressor turned when the /AC was off and when the A/C was on, and he didn't see the clutch ever stop turning as the A/C cycled. I don't know how long he watched it, so I asked him again to turn the A/C on and watch the compressor to see of the center of the compressor started and stopped as the AC cycled. As far as a clutch. Will that stay engaged continuously until the desired interior temperature is reached and then start cycling on and off to maintain the interior temperature, or will it cycle on and off while it's cooling from the beginning? That's something I never thought about.
Thanks Joe

Just to add. I happened to see a video of a replacement A/C Compressor that was the same model compressor as the A/C my son has, and the spindle spun freely, separate from the clutch, when the clutch wasn't engaged. As you previously mentioned the clutch permanently engaged obviously is an issue. Is there any chance at all that the control valve in the compressor is faulty, causing the compressor to be continuously engaged? With the compressor continuously engaged there is no cooling whatsoever in the cabin of the car. I'm not getting a good vibe about the compressor in the car but would love to know what the issue is so that it can be corrected without going through these "replace things along the way until you get it corrected" method. Again, thank you for the information provided.

Hi Joe,

I disconnected the drive belt and the compressor, and the clutch turned together. The spindle to the compressor would not turn separately, so I'm guessing the issue is the compressor. I'm not sure of any other reason that would cause the clutch and the spindle to turn together other when power is off other than a seized compressor. My plan currently is to replace the compressor, the condenser, and the receiver dryer. Any other ideas of what the problem might be that we haven't touched on? Also, is there any possibility that you could tell be where the A/C relay is located on this car? I thought it was against the firewall under the ECM units, but I could be mistaken.
Thanks again for the assistance.