No heater operation?

Tiny
JIRIPAVELEK
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 64,000 MILES
Hi, there is blinking light on button which turns on rear window heat after start for about a minute. There is no fan blow until the blinking stops, then AC starts and works fine after that. My web searching resulted in info that it is some error code, light trying to tell us that something is wrong with the system. However mechanic plugged computer in and there was no error code. He tried fix that by replacing control panel parts (or all of it). What has changed it is not blinking and delaying every time but every third, fourth star, t but first start of the day usually blinks with delay. Forgot to mention that this issue started after alternator failure and replacement. Recently I discovered that front of the car doesn't heat, only cold air blows while rear is working fine.
Tuesday, November 26th, 2019 AT 6:02 AM

21 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

When the mechanic did the scan did he use a CAN scanner which is the future of car repair? This runs through all system. here is a video of the job being done. You can get a CAN scanner for about $50.00 on Amazon.

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

This sounds like the TIPM is out which is common here is how you replace it which is easy because it self initializes. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Wednesday, November 27th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
NANCYPOOL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2009 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 38,700 MILES
When running my heater on the highway my temperature gauge will start going towards cold. When it gets to the C mark the heater starts blowing cold air and the ETC light comes on. I can pull over and stop and let the car idle for awhile and the temperature needle moves back to normal and the air is warm again. But the light doesn't go off until I turn the car off and back on again. It will run OK for awhile and then does it again. Do you know what is going on and what to do about it? Signed cold and confused.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
That would be typical of the thermostat failing to close. It needs to stop the coolant from circulating to give it time to warm up. When it sticks open the heat is given off by the radiator too quickly. This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

The heater core in the dash is a small radiator and is also removing heat from the coolant. Have the thermostat replaced. That's a pretty inexpensive job.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PINHEIRO95035
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 54,000 MILES
Hi there, my heator stoped working about a week ago and my air conditioner as well, I went and bought a fix it manual and checked the fuses and all seems to be ok, only that no heat and cold air comes out when I turn it on. Its winter and I need the heator but don't want to go to anyone without knowing if it could be an easy fix or at least what I could be looking at with costs! I have been riped off before so at least I want to get an idea. Thank you
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,320 POSTS
Hi, I'm afraid the heat blend is motor controlled. At one time a cable was used to open the blend air door, now there are two motors that must be calibrated using a scan tool(computer). Unless you have no coolant in the cooling system, you have already done the best you can, the dealer has the DRBIII that is needed for checking fault codes in the a/c and heater system and for testing or calibrating one or both electric motors used for directing air across the heating coil. But check that you have coolant available for heating first, ok.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THEGREATDANTON15
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 80,000 MILES
My 2007 dodge caravan has no heat. All five speeds on the fan work properly. The heater core has been checked and opened and is ok. Thermostat has been changed. The selector switch for the level of discharge works at all levels. Any ideas
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
It can only be one of two things, the heater core or the blend air door. Tell me. With the engine running, hot, and the heater on, do both heater core hoses get hot? If they do, then the blend air door is the problem. If both are hot, the core is hot. The only thing left is the blend air door preventing heat from entering the vehicle.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2006 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 150,000 MILES
The heater does not work, it blows but does not get warm
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check to see if both heater hoses are hot if they are check the actuators in the heater. If ihoses not hot check thermostat. If it's an actuator it's item 4 or 6 depending on your ssystem. Ti cold also be the control which it would need to be scanned to find the problem.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHUNGERFORD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, and the heater recently stopped working. It will sometimes work for about 5 minutes or so, but will then blow cold again. Fans are working fine. I also noticed that the engine temp gauge will max out every once in a while. If I turn on the blower for the interior heating system, it will bring the engine temp gauge down very quickly.

Are these two system interrelated? Is it possible that I just need a coolant system flush or does it sound more involved than that. I'd like to try the simple fix that I can do myself before taking it to a shop if possible.

Any advice is appreciated.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
THe heater works from the heated coolant in the engine. I would start by making sure the coolant level is full. If it is full, at that point I would do one of two things. First, I would recommend having the engine checked to make sure there isn't a head gasket leaking. If that shows good, then flush the radiator and engine, replace the thermostat and refill the system. PLEASE NOTE: IF you do this yourself, make sure the heater is on when filling the system. Also, make sure to bleed the system of air.

If you have other questions, let me know.
Joe
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JCMELDO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have the identical vehicle and problem. What was the fix? Was it the thermostat?
Thanks.
Jon
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
If it is the T-stat, the engine will most likely not heat up to a normal operating temp. I just answered this today. Go through the checks I mentioned to this person and let me know what you find.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JCMELDO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Mechanic says the water pump is leaking coolant. So, I'm getting it replaced tomorrow.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
That may be true. However, if the coolant level is full, you should still have heat. When he has the pump off, have him flush the heater core, radiator, and replace the thermostat. Labor should be less since he is already into the job. That way you have it all done and heat shouldn't be a problem.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JCMELDO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks. They filled it w/ coolant so I could drive home. I do now have heat. I only filled the reservoir, not from the top of the radiator. It was near the max level when I did that, but might have dripped out before the next time I drove it. I'll do the flush, but will do the thermostat myself. They also said the serpentine belt had coolant on it and suggested that be replaced. I bought a new one at Napa and will do that myself too. YouTube video shows how to do it. Doesn't look too tough.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
That sounds good. However, would they consider replacing the belt if you provide it? They have to put the old one on regardless. As far as coolant on the old belt, if it is in good shape, you should be able to clean it. Now for the thermostat, they don't have to remove the housing for the water pump, but it may be cheaper for them to replace it because you will have to drain the new coolant they put in. Coolant used to be 4 or 5 dollars a gallon. Now, it is pushing 15. Prices are getting out of control. Don't be afraid to tell them you already have a belt and if they would just put it on for you. There is nothing additional for them to do. Also, if you refer to our homepage under the DIY section, you will find all the belt routing diagrams for your vehicle. Feel free to ask me if you have questions too. Now for the t-stat, see what they would charge. It is nothing more than the removal of 2 bolts, cleaning the old gasket off, and removing and replacing the t-stat. See if they will include it in the price if you give them the t-stat since they already have the system drained, the other end of the hose off. I bet they will. It will take them an extra 10 minutes and save you the trouble. Plus, if by accident you lose the coolant when you drain it (and you will lose some), then you have to buy more, so it may work out for the same price if they are honest people. It doesn't hurt to ask. And again, don't be afraid to tell them you already purchased a t-stat and belt because you planned to do that yourself.

Take care and let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JCMELDO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks.
They quoted me $323 total to do the water pump. $94 for the water pump, $193 labor plus coolant. I bought a new water pump (lifetime warranty) at Napa for $40.82 that they agreed to install for the labor. That labor is a little higher than other places I called, but they took the time to diagnose the problem and put some coolant in so I could drive home. And, any separate coolant cost is removed b/c I'm doing the radiator flush ($84), which includes the coolant.
I bought a serpentine belt for $23 at Napa. Their quote is $70.91 for the belt and $96.50 to install it ($167.41 total). I'm looking at their printed quote now that details everything. Based on what you just told me, that seems ridiculous. And, if they are taking off the serpentine belt anyhow and putting it back on, it makes me even more skeptical if not ****ed that they quoted $167.51 for a new one.
I specifically spoke to the mechanic who said he didn't see any problems w/ the tstat. I haven't bought that yet and don't plan on replacing it unless a new problem happens.
They've done some work, so I don't want to walk away w/out anything for their time, but they also seem high so I'm minimizing my cost and experience w/ them. They have 3 service centers in this area, have been around for awhile, and are reputable. They're entitled to make a profit, but the price differences on the belt and water pump are too big. The Dodge dealership even quoted me a lower price on the water pump ($84) and labor ($170). I told them and they were surprised the dealership was less than they were, but they weren't willing to lower their price. I also told them the price of the Napa water pump. They thought it must be remanufactured, but it's not and I told them that too.
Again, thanks.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
It's a 40 minute job. Slightly longer if it has a separate AC belt (extra 10 minutes. Plus, you got a good price from NAPA, but I even get a discount from that price. And yes, they have to remove the belt to replace the water pump, so water pump replacement should include replacing the belt they took off. I don't know where you live, but here is how I do it. I get the belt at my cost and sell it at retail which is usually around a 20 dollar mark-up.

Belt replacement involves removing the wheel and splash guards. It is a 40 minute project if you have the tools out.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JCMELDO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Joe.
I innocently asked about the serpentine belt if they took it off to clean it when they replaced the water pump. The service advisor at the front desk said no that they had a small tool that clamps or wraps on it to clean it. But, maybe he was wrong. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt. He didn't do the repair.
When I watched the YouTube video to replace the serpentine belt, it looked like it took about 10-15 minutes total w/ explanation and everything. So, yeah, $96 to replace it when they were already working on the van in that same area of the vehicle seemed way too high. And, $70 for a belt that was $23 at Napa?
Boulder, CO, is generally a more expensive place to live, but this was out of whack regardless.
Thanks.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 7:53 AM (Merged)

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