ABS issue, 480a90: DSC: Roller Brake Tester Mode Active

Tiny
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Hi,

I know the original would have been 14mmx1.25. I remember there was a change in the wheel/hub diameter. The wheel/hub was out of tolerance. Are you sure that isn't what they meant?

Joe
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
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I found out from the forums that the bearing hole size for the new ones changed. So, I have to buy different size nuts now, but I cannot find any info on what size it is. Because every bearing I buy now is going to have the new size wheel nut thread.
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

If it is a factory change, try a 12mm x 1.5 x the length of the ones you presently have.

Let me know if that fits. That is a standard BMW size, so it's likely if they are smaller, that is what they went to.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
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So what is the original size it had?
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
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The original size should have been 14mm x 1.25. Since the new hub (for some reason) has a smaller size opening for the lugs, I suspect BMW simply went to their next common size down, a 12mm x 1.5. If you go to a hardware store, get a cheap bolt of that size and see if it fits the new hub.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
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I see. Makes sense. Can you explain to me what the numbers mean here in general for lug nits? One for thickness kf the threads?
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Absolutely.

14mm or 12mm is the diameter of the bolt (the threaded part). (Not where you place a wrench to remove them)

1.25 or 1.5 is what refers to the thread pitch in mm. For example, a thread pitch of 1.5 means that the distance between one thread and the next is 1.5mm.

There is a third number that will indicate the length of the bolt.

I hope that makes sense.

Joe
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
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I see, got it now. And there would not be a size of 12x1.25 right, either 12x1.5 or 14x1.25.
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Chances are there would be those sizes but not for this vehicle. However, I just went with what would normally be used. What I would suggest is to get an inexpensive bolt from a hardware store first and confirm it threads in easily and smoothly. Once you have confirmed the diameter and pitch of the thread are correct, then you could get what is needed.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 8:58 PM
Tiny
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Okay, went to a store and tried 12x150 and that worked. Hopefully the length is still the same on the 12x1.5 and the m14x1.25. I will order those lug nuts and hooe for the best. I am also guessing there shouldnt be an issue as far as them fitting through the wheels.
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Friday, February 4th, 2022 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
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Some progress. Please bear with me while I explain what happened. I need another brain and set of eyes to figure out something.
-Initially, both front wheel sensors were reading 0.
-Initially, all wheels showed a signal of 100% (not sure how is this measured or when, but the scanner has an option to "signal check" and they all showed 100% initially.
-Aftermarket Amazon wheel sensors did nothing to show any speed change from 0.
-Same aftermarket sensors showed 0% signal when I did the "signal check".
-Installed the new wheel bearing with the old sensor and turned ignition on, turned wheel by hand and there was no change in speed (not sure if it can be generated this way with these Hall effect sensors), BUT the signal check was at a 100%.
-Installed a new sensor from a good company, good brand, put everything back and put the car down. Back out of garage. Deleted all codes, immediately all lights returned. One was for rear left the other front right. Deleted again, only front right remained.
Drive the car while looking at wheel speeds, one of those that was showing 0 is now working great, but it is saying it is the right one, not the left that I changed. Ugh.
-So, is it possible that the one on left is showing on right?
Does not make any sense that after a new bearing and sensor that the right one starts to work and not the front left. This is crazy.
-Not sure why the picture won't load, but it is basically showing 2 codes:
480713 permanent: WSS:Plausibility, right front direction of rotation.
480A9C permanent: WSS left rear sporadic fault.
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Friday, February 4th, 2022 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Like you, that makes no sense to me either. LOL I don't see how the opposite side could be recognized as working and not the one that was fixed.

Just for the heck of it, switch the sensors to see if it changes sides. If it does, then I suspect another bad sensor. If it doesn't, then we may have a module issue.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, February 4th, 2022 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
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I am going to get another sensor of same brand and install on other side and see. I feel like if I switch the two fronts something is going to happen to the one that was just fixed. Forgot to ask, are there any fuses or relays? Is it possible that a connector on the module was switched right vs left, or does the module just have one big connector? I think the salt and minor rust may have something to do with all of this. Where is the module located?
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Saturday, February 5th, 2022 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Corrosion can certainly cause electrical connection issues. As far as the DSC module, it is mounted to the rear of the ABS pump. There is one large connector to it. That is why I don't feel the wires got switched. See pic below.

As far as power, the DSC receives power from three different fuses. They are located in the under-hood fuse box.

If you look below (pics 2 and 3), I attached the entire wiring schematic for this circuit. I had to cut the pic in half to make it readable, but I did overlap the two so you can follow from one to the next.

Let me know if this helps. At this point, I'm not 100% sure what is happening. There is even a chance that someone changed coding somehow and it's causing issues. Coding is basically the ability to make minor changes to the vehicle's software to unlock features BMW makes available in some of its vehicles. I don't even think the DSC is codable.

If the new sensor works, let me know. If it doesn't make a difference, you may need to send the DSC module out for repair or at least inspection. That is just a thought at this point.

Let me know what you find or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, February 5th, 2022 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
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Is it possible for the ABS module to be bad without any ABS or dsc module codes?
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 9:45 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Yes. The module could be bad and not set a code. If the system receives a signal (right or wrong) but a signal that falls within the parameters set, it doesn't know the difference.

I suspect (only in theory) that someone has worked on the wiring before you purchased it, changing things or not knowing what they were doing. As a result, you are trying to use the OEM standard testing procedures and it isn't working. Nothing is making sense.

When you checked the connector at the ABS module, were all the pins in both the connector and module in good condition?

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
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I tried to go into programming, but it won't even get in there. I was going to see if I can record it. Yes, I think all looked good at the module harness, I will check again. I used to be able to delete all the codes and all will disappear and I will be able to drive it 20 ft before the ABS starts to kind of work its thing and it would slow the car down till all the lights come on. Now as soon as I delete the codes they come back immediately. And it says these codes. Is it possible that non-OEM sensors can do this as far as rotation?
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
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There is a chance that aftermarket parts can cause issues, but I don't see how they would cause what you are experiencing. But anything is possible.

Let me know if you find anything different.

Joe
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 1:33 PM

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