84 Jeep CJ7 Cranks but Won't Run

WHAT YOU GOT VALUE-WISE WITH THIS FIRST PIC?

SEEMS I'M NOT ALLOWED TO HAVE AN AVATAR NOW

LET'S POUR IN 2 TABLESPOONS OF FUEL INTO THE CARB AND TRY IT

HOW DOES IT REACT?

MAYBE YOU GOT WATER RUNNING THRU THE SYSTEM INSTEAD OF GASOLINE-I'VE GOTTEN BAD FUEL BEFORE-I REMOVED NEARLY A QUART FROM "WILLY" A WHILE BACK

THERE IS ALSO THE POSSIBLE AQUA-SABOTAGE FACTOR!

I'VE GOT MORE-KEEP SENDING INFO, EVEN IF IT SEEMS UNIMPORTANT

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

I'm new to the site and I'm not getting notifications when replies hit. That's OK, I know to check the site now.

So here's what I did today BEFORE I saw your post:

- I thought that maybe my spark was weak (see my post above) so I made two changes: (1) I installed a new ballast resistor (a previous mechanic had cut it out of the loop), and (2) I replaced the coil. I checked just about everything else I could think of (disconnected wires, corrosion, etc) - no major issues. Then tried to start. No joy. Great crank but it almost sounds like no gas getting to the engine (to me at least).

I read your post and did the voltmeter test on both old and new coils. Readings for both = 12.36! Based off of what you've told me something is not right. (And Medic I've read some of your other posts - your posts got me on this site.)

I don't have a gas can, so I'll have to do the tablespoons in the carb tomorrow or Friday.

Other background:

- New yellow top Optima (which is great) about 6 mos ago

- You mentioned bad gas. That was my original thought when it first started running poorly. Seems it got really bad after my last fill up from 1/4 tank just the day before she died. But it could it be so bad that she won't start at all?

That's all I have right now. I'll be able to turn to on her again tomorrow after work.

Thanks for your help.

I forgot to mention that I put a new fuel filter on 2 days ago.

Hmac,
- I can't see your second image.
- First image is a pic of the distributor. I think the verbiage at the bottom is a procedure to test the ignition module. Is that correct? My ignition module looks kinda like the picture here, except I have a 3 wire connector (not 2) and a 4 wire connector I think. I will try to run this test tonight.

Thanks.

Can't make sense of any of these files - each one is cut off badly on the left hand side.

VinnyL0302@gmail. Com

That time the whole write up is there (not cut off) but the quality is so poor its unreadable. I even printed it and couldn't read it. Sorry. I appreciate your perisistence in trying to help me.

I have Chiltons and Haynes and even a tech manual. I just don't always find them to be very user friendly - guess I'm not very fluent in 'mechanic'.

Got 'em! Thanks!

THINK I'M GETTING THE RUN AROUND

I HAVE NOT BEEN NOTIFIED AT ALL ON THIS POST - NOT EVEN ONE OF THE RESPONSES. YES, I HAVE TO MANUALLY SUBSCRIBE TO EVERY QUESTION THAT I ANSWER, TISSN'T SEEM TO WORK ANYMORE

IT'S LIKE MIDNIGHT THIRTY HERE, I'LL FIND YOU THRU "MAKE" TOMORROW, LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE STILL NOT PECULATING.

I'M CURRENTLY ABOUT TO PUT IN 2 WHEEL CYLINDER KITS, BLEED AND ADJUST THE BRAKES ON "WILLY", THIS IS SORTA A DELICATE OPERATION, TO GET 'EM ADJUSTED PROPERLY. MY PAL AND I HAVE CONSTRUCTED SORTA A "CUT AWAY TEST DRUM" TO HOPEFULLY MAKE IT EZer

THE MEDIC

I was wondering where you went Medic. I am also not getting notified of posts to this problem. Easier for me to check for updates than it is for you though I'm sure.

Gonna try my meager skills out today on testing the ignition module.

When you get a chance please read through my posts. I tried to answer everything you asked.

Thanks.

OK

DID YOU TRY THE SPOONS OF FUEL?

LETS GET A BABY FOOD JAR OR EQUIV, TAKE THE RUBBER FUEL LINE LOOSE AT THE CARB. STICK IT IN THE JAR AND TURN IT OVER TILL YOU HAVE 1/2 A JAR FULL. NOW OUT OF YOUR FUEL CAN, ADD SOME "GOOD FUEL" TO THE JAR. DO YOU SEE THE "GOOD FUEL" FLOATING ON THE "POSSIBLE WATERED FUEL"?

1) 12 VOLTS???? MAY BE TOO MUCH!!!!

2) DO YOU HAVE A STOCK COIL?

3) DO THIS TEST IN MY 1ST 2 PICS - WHAT ARE YOUR VALUES??? (THESE PICS ARE FOR A '77 WITH PRESTOLITE IGN) LETS SEE WHAT YOU HAVE!

4) PIC 3 IS OF THE "ADVANCE AUTO PARTS" IGN MODULE TESTER. (IF I SIZED IT SMALL ENOUGH TO WORK) HAVE THEM TEST IT AT LEAST 5 TIMES IN A ROW! (OR MORE) IMMEDIATELY ONE TIME AFTER THE OTHER. IF IT FAILS ONE TIME, REPLACE IT!. NOW TEST THE NEW ONE THE SAME WAY BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE STORE!!! YES, IT MAY BE "NEW-BAD"!

5) LOOK THIS POST OVER. THERE IS A TEST FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR WIRES IN IT SOMEWHERE IN THE 5 PAGES

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1984-jeep-cherokee-cj7

CAN YOU SEND GOOD PICS ? - FULL LEFT SIDE - FULL RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE AND OVERHEAD TOO. HOOD RESTING ON THE WINDSHIELD FRAME-BREATHER OFF OF THE CARB

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Success! It was the ignition module: I tested it per Hmac's second 'pic'. Replaced the module and she started right up. Not only that, she starts and runs better than she has in a really long time. Thanks guys!

So I think the ballast resistor being cut out of the loop may have caused or contributed to this. What do you think? I've reinstalled it.