Ethanol will deform certain types of rubber parts, especially if just sits over time, most people with small engines (landscapers, etc.) Will only use ethanol free gas because it ruins their carbs.
I run it in mine, but we're running all of the time, mine is my daily driver.
I also have a 21 gallon polyethylene fuel tank.
If I had to guess at one part to look at:
The needle and seat, the rubber bullet tip may be swollen and slowing down the tank refill.
Next might be the accelerator pump if I were guessing.
Bringing me to this sad story.
My 1946 Willys, ten gallon steel tank under the driver's seat, he sits four or five months out of the year as it is too cold to drive him.
Used the ethanol in him too.
This crap separates out it's water content when it sits.
My fuel filter got full of rust and stopped filtering.
The only way I found to make it better (without a plastic tank) was to grab it on it's way out of the tank. Otherwise it could be a filter change 3 times a day!
This tank gravity flows out of the bottom on it's way to the fuel pump.
I have placed two strong magnets with "CJ MEDEVAC" "Mag handles" right at the outlet. Prior to this I had to make an access hole to get there as the baffle would not let me over there.
Here's route the gas takes "now"- Fuel tank, magnets, glass fuel bowl (like for a tractor), Inline filter. Its all grabbed by this point. Then it continues on to my glass bowl fuel pump and to the carburetor.
Picture 1) Far plug was my "get to the outlet" modification.
Picture 2) Magnets at outlet.
Picture 3) Rust covered magnet beside a clean one (a little bigger than a $ quarter).
Picture 4) Look at the crap! One magnet, about a 50 mile trip. You should have seen them the first few trips!
Picture 5 and 6) glass bowl prior to reaching the inline filter.
Picture 7) "Willy".
Picture 8) Your carburetor.
I haven't found a poly tank yet. Haven't really looked had yet.
Check this too!
Get out the timing light, verify timing idle speed. Remove the distributor vacuum line and plug it.
Let's shoot at the marks, it should be 5 before top dead center at 600 RPM.
Now slowly rev it while watching the marks, does it advance as it should (mark moving to 6, 7, 8, 9, etc BTDC)?
Okay next timing test.
Reattach the distributor vacuum line, take that hose loose at the carburetor, cap the carburetor connection.
Find a live small manifold vacuum line (one that sucks constantly), and hook the distributor hose to it.
Fire it up and see that you mark has probably almost disappeared, toggle the hose off and on the port, it should drop back to 5 degrees and when it's reconnected to manifold vacuum disappears again.
Put everything back like it should be!
What do we have?
The Medic
Images (Click to make bigger)
Saturday, April 6th, 2019 AT 8:16 PM