Loses power and shuts off while driving?

Hi,

A crankshaft position sensor would be my first guess. When they fail, you lose spark to the spark plugs. So, that is where we need to start checking.

Here is a link that explains how to check for spark, follow it and let me know the results:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Also, if it is possible for you to record the engine cranking and upload it for me to hear, it may be helpful.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe! I have finally learned how to test and i do not have a spark. I replaced the crankshaft sensor with one that did not require relearning an Intermotor PC934. After i had installed that i got two codes for crankshaft sensor a and crankshaft sensor b. I replaced the sensors because i had purchased some anyway. I didn't really thing that would work....and it did not. I also had a mental breakdown because i dropped a nut inside the hole where the camshaft sensor was supposed to go but a trip to Walmart and a long magnet and i retrieved it. lol. TMI? I also bought a multi meter to see if i could test the wiring to the camshaft using volts. The people in the videos doing it would get a reading of 12 and a reading of 5 for the signal wire. I got a reading of 4.8 but i did not get a reading of 12. Also, do you have a guide on how to test or does this give you any ideas? I so appreciate your help.

just to be more specific the codes are P0340 and P0365.

Hi,

When the target triggers the cam sensor, the sensor voltage is 5V. If not, the sensor voltage is 0V. So, what you described sounds correct.

Both codes are related to the cam sensors. I have a question. Could you record the engine cranking and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know.

joe

Thank you for your help. Here is the requested video of cranking.

Hi,

Have the camshaft position sensors been replaced? Do me a favor. At each coil, you will find a red wire. With the key in the run position, each of the red wires should have power. I need you to check that for me.

Also, I attached a few pics below. If there is no power at the coils, check the fuse in pic 1.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.

Yes, they have been replaced but they were generic ones from Amazon and didn't work. So, I took them off and put the OEMs back on. I did the generic ohms test on the sensor. Shows it has resistance. Do you think I should replace them?

Hi,

I just updated my last post. Check for power at the coils first. I noted that the power and the engine control relay are in a printed circuit board box under the hood. In most cases, the PCB is replaced and not repaired. If we don't have power to the coils, that is what we have to check. See the prior post.

Joe

Thank you Joe I will do this.

Hi,

Sounds like a plan. Let me know what you find.

Take care and Happy New Year,

Joe

Hey Joe,

I went outside to check for power to the coil packs last night and was not able to get the tip of the multi meter in to test. I went to harbor freight and bought a circuit tester. It had a 6/12 volt tester and a continuity tester. I used the 6/12 volt tester and showed that terminals 1 and four lit up when i probed them on each coil pack. Out of curiosity i hooked up the continuity tester. I attached it to the ground terminal of the battery and did not get the tester to light up on any of the coil packs. I am not certain i used the continuity tester the way i was supposed to though so this may not mean anything.

Hi,

If you connect the neg side of the tester to the battery neg terminal, you won't have continuity. I say that because the ground is provided via the PCM.

Try this. Disconnect one of the coil connectors. Locate the black wire in the connector. Check for continuity via the black wire to the battery negative and let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

Joe,

So, I had some time today. I used an inline spark tester last time i tested the spark plugs and recorded it with my phone. I did not see any spark. I redid the test today with a person cranking. I saw a spark at plug one and no spark on the rest of the plugs. All of the spark plugs are new. Also, the end of the spark plugs smelled like gasoline slightly. I am so sorry for all of the wrong information. Obviously, I am still learning. I also pulled out both VVT's and cleaned and tested them and put them back. just read that it was something free that you could do that could be related to the codes i have gotten. I am now wondering if it is the bad coil packs.

Hi,

All of the coils wouldn't have failed at the same time, so that is unlikely. Do I understand you correctly that only cylinder 1 has spark?

As far as fuel smell, that is likely because there is no spark to burn the gas. Allow the spark plugs to be removed for a few hours so they can dry.

No need to apologize for the information. LOL We are here to help you, and that includes learning. The best way to learn is by making mistakes. (in most cases) LOL

Please confirm there is spark at the cylinder 1 coil. If there is, we need to check if power is getting to all coils. If it is, then we may have a ground issue or the PCM may have failed. I guess three coils may have failed at the same time, but that is really unlikely. If there is no spark, I need you to follow the black wires at the connectors to the rear of the cylinder head where they are mounted. Make sure that the connection is good or check the black wires for continuity to ground as I mentioned above. One other thought. I'm not sure how you are using an inline tester since these are coil packs.

Take a look at this link, you may find it helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you so much for all of your help. I am 100% certain there is spark to the one coil, because i saw and felt it. lol. I am going to have to charge my battery up again before i can retest the remaining plugs again but i will do that. There is voltage to the coil packs. I have checked that. I will check for continuity tomorrow. Thank you so much for the link. I will read it a few times to get a better understanding. You have been super helpful. I was on the totally wrong path on my own.

Anna, (I hope that's your name) LOL

You are very welcome. Let me know what you find. Once I know if the others are or aren't getting spark, I decide what to do next. Also, if cylinder one gets spark and the others don't, switch the coil from cylinder 1 to a different one not working to see if it then works. If it does, then the coils are the likely problem.

Take care,

Joe

Hey Joe!

I have retested the remaining coil packs. I have three good coil packs and one that does not get a spark. I am going to order a new coil pack but could one failing coil pack lead to a no start? I am guessing that I may have an additional issue? What's next boss? :) Also thank you for the support and encouragement.

This is getting embarrassing. There is spark in all of the cylinders. So, I watched a video, sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it started up and obviously shut off again. I have just replaced the fuel pump, so i am at a loss.

Hi,

When you first turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump prime? If you do, we need to check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If there is pressure, then we have an injector issue. If there is no pressure, we need to recheck the fuel pump. It may not be running at all, or it could be bad.

Here is a link that explains how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I attached the manufacturer's fuel pressure information below. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend one to you.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi Joe!

I picked up a fuel pressure test kit from AutoZone to try and test the fuel pressure. I could not get the fuel feed tube separated from the delivery pipe to test it. I unscrewed the piece that went directly into the fuel rail. There was gas in the fuel rail. Also, with that opened we cranked the car and not a drop of gas came out. We do hear the fuel pump when we put the key in before we crank. I am guessing if no gas comes out, we have no fuel pressure? Any ideas on how to get the feed tube separated from the delivery pipe? I pulled and pulled but did not want to break it.

Also, i used my multimeter and verified that i am getting power to the fuel pump.

Hi,

If you hear the fuel pump run and nothing comes out, either we have a restriction in the fuel supply, or the new pump has also failed.

You indicated there is power to the pump. Is it getting 12v?

If it is getting 12v, and you hear it turn on, then chances are it isn't a ground or power supply. In this case, I feel the pump has failed, or you have a fuel link kinked, restricting fuel flow. You may want to remove the pump and bench-test it to see if it pumps fuel.

Let me know.

Joe

Thank you, Joe. We will bench test it tomorrow...I can't believe I probably had it right the first time and the pump wasn't great. Lol. At least I got a pump. With a warranty.

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. I hope we can resolve the issue.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

joe

Hey Joe.

I watched videos on how to bench test it and I'm worried about trying it, but the pump came with a 90-day warranty, and I was able to get another one. The part was used because the OEM part is 2.7k not kidding. Lol. So unfortunate I'm getting another used one and I will let you know how it goes. Fortunately, I feel like an old pro and it should only take me 10 minutes to out it in.

Thanks for the update. I didn't realize it was used. Chances are that is the problem. How much is a new pump? $2,700.00?

Here is a new one for under $80.00. Where are you located?

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

I am in Lebanon Ohio. We have a 2107 Hyundai Elantra se 2.0L. For some reason the other model filters don't fit. Can you send the link for the $80.00 one? I'll make sure it fits before I purchase it.

Hi,

That was from Rockauto.com. I put in the engine and vehicle information, and that is the only one that came up. If you want to get it from them, let me know and I get you one of the 5% off discount coupons. BTW, We aren't too far apart. LOL I'm near Pittsburgh.

Here is the exact link that should take you to the part:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hyundai,2017,elantra,2.0l+l4,3393930,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147

Let me know your thoughts.

Joe

I definitely like the steelers a little more now. Lol. So, I looked at the fuel pump on rock auto. I initially tried a new pump similar to the one posted. It did not work because the diameter of the top round piece was much too small to hold the pump.in the tank. Hyundai changed the fuel tanks in 2017 so half of the 2017 models are the older version with the smaller top and the 2017 through 2020's are the newer version. I looked for specs online and cannot find the diameter of the top of this pump. That is why I bought a used one. I am thinking if using sea foam to clean the gas line and putting the next used pump in. I could always order this one and send it back if the diameter is not correct.

Hi,

Is this a GT model? I looked it up and there is a different part number.

311102V500 = GT OEM part number


31120F3500 = Other model part number

If possible, let me know the VIN so I can look it up and confirm.

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe,

The VIN is 5NPD84LF3HH193129. It is an Elantra SE.

Hi,

The OEM part number is 31120F3500. The one on Rockauto won't fit. See if you can cross-reference the number to a different manufacturer.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe, I know you've missed me. LOL. So, the fuel pump has arrived. Went in well. The car starts but it is a rough start sometimes. So weird. We will drive it for a while and see if there are any other symptoms. We replaced the battery as well just in case. No codes thrown. Any thoughts on what could be causing the rough start?

Hi,

I have missed you. LOL I hope things are getting better for you.

If you are having a rough start, it could be related to a leaking fuel injector. If the system leaks down too far, it takes a bit longer to get it running.

Try this.

1) Turn the key from off to the run position (engine off) and count to 5.

2) Turn the key to off and repeat step 1 a total of five times.

3) On the sixth time, see if it starts normally.

Try that and let me know what you find.

Joe

Well, it starts every time, and it runs beautifully. Like new. Which is amazing. I think the new battery helped also it helps when I turn engine on and count to two and then crank it over. That is when I get the easiest start.

Well, i spoke too soon. the weirdest thing. I went to pump gas and fuel was leaking out of the bottom of the car and I manually stopped pumping because the gas pump never clicked but i know i don't usually need that much gas. What in the world?

Hi,

If the fuel leaks out when you are refueling, either the tank is leaking or the filler tube. Have you gotten under the vehicle to check for evidence of where the leak originated?

Also, if it starts easier when you cycle the key, then we either have a weak fuel pump or there is something allowing pressure to drop off. For example, if a fuel injector leaks, you will lose all pressure in the system when the pump is off. If the leak you found is related to the fuel supply line, the same thing can happen.

We need to first locate the leak to determine the source. Once we do that, it will need to be repaired. If the repair doesn't resolve the issue, then a fuel pressure leak-down test will be needed. However, we will cross that bridge if and when we need to.

Let me know.

Joe

Hey Joe! Well, the check engine light came on. i got two codes P0455 and P0456. When i go to turn the car on i have to put the key in turn and wait a second or two before i click it over. Once i hear the fuel pump engaged it cranks over but if i just put the key in and try to turn it on right away it cranks but does not start. I read that the purge control solenoid is common in Hyundai Elantra's but i am guessing the large leak has something to do with how i put the fuel pump? Any thoughts?

So, I did some looking online. The Home test for the purge control was to take the line that brings fuel into the calve off and to run the car for 5 minutes during which time there should be no vacuum and then after engine warms up there should be a vacuum. I did this and there was no vacuum until the car had run for about 6 minutes and then I could hear the valve opening and closing. I visually examined all of the hoses and I didn't see any leaks and I looked under the car and did not see any leak from the fuel tank. I'm stumped. Lol.

The codes indicate an EVAP leak. What needs to be done is a smoke test. Basically, smoke is injected into the EVAP system at a very low pressure. If there is a leak, the smoke will come out at that point.

There is a chance something was disconnected when the pump was done.

Keep in mind, since the codes are related to an EVAP leak, you shouldn't see fuel. Instead, the fuel vapors are what are leaking. Check around the EVAP canister. See pic below

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.