Headlights not wokring?

Use a voltage tester on the fuse circuit, headlamps on. If no voltage, backtrack the circuit. In the diagram, the yellow wire at headlamp is voltage. Black wire is ground.

Just to add, you may need to check for trouble codes? I have seen the alternator put out to much voltage popping the headlights.

Could be the headlight switch or a relay to include the fuse/s that powers it-

It could also be due to bad wire connections or a fault with the Body Control Module.

Get a scan done to check if there are any trouble codes.

Hate to say it but the switch likely wasn't the problem. Those lights are not actually switched by it, they are switched by the body control module. The dimmer switch just tells the BCM to switch the beams by grounding a signal pin. To determine if the problem is in the BCM you will need to access pin 7 in the C1 connector on the BCM. It has a Black wire with a white stripe. That is the wire that the BCM grounds to activate the high beam relay.
To test it you just need a simple test light that is connected to a good ground.

To get to it remove the trim panel on the left end of the dash, look in there and you will see an electrical connector on the top of the BCM. Next go under the dash and remove the push pins holding the insulator cover over the foot well on the drivers side Pic 3.
Now use a trim stick to remove the trim ring around the ignition switch then remove the center stack trim panel Pic4. Next you remove the screws and pins for the trim panel under the steering column Pic5. Now you can look up in and see the connectors on the bottom of the BCM.
The connector you need has 50 pins in it and will have 5 orange wires in it with 3 of them right next to each other. I cannot remember if that is the side connector you can see from the side cover or the bottom large connector. But if you look for all the orange wires that is the one. Now look for the Black wire with white stripe. It will be pin 7 and between a solid black wire and a Dark Green wire with white stripe.
The test is simple, take the grounded test light and with the key on touch it to that wire. If the high beams come on all of the rest of the high beam parts are good. But you are not getting the control signal from the BCM. The solution is to replace and reprogram the BCM.
For that you need a dealer scan tool and access unfortunately. Because the dash indicator comes on for high beam we know the switch is working and the BCM is getting the signal to select high beam, it just isn't doing it.

This system is full of computer controls, so you're limited in what you can do without a scanner. While your observations don't point to blown fuses, lets not overlook the two for the high beams. Use a test light to check the two fuses under the hood. They have small test points on top. Turn the head lights on to high beam, then check the voltages on those two fuses. We're looking for 12 volts on one test point and 0 volts on the other one, for each fuse. That indicates they're blown.

For the benefit of anyone else researching this problem, here's a link to an article on how to use a test light:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

If you find 0 volts on all four test points, the high beam relay isn't being turned on by the Body Computer.

Hi Steve. I'll let you handle this. Holler if you need me.

If they worked with the old switch but now don't but the hi-beam indicator is working you will need to test to see if the switching signal is getting to the relay, also test the high beam relay. To be sure it is working. A slightly easier way to do that as you say the were working would be to pull the relay and use a test light to battery positive to the E20 terminal in the relay socket. If that turns on the light the switching signal is there. Then you need to figure out if it's voltage to the relay on pins G19 and 20 or if as Doc mentioned there is a fuse or bulb issue.

If fuses are OK, then check the relay. High amp draw items will use a relay. It should be in the engine compartment fuse/relay box.

Another possibility is the headlight switch.

The remote may just be a bad battery in the remote.

Most Advance Auto Parts stores have a remote tester for free.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, in the under hood fuse box you should check the lo beam relay. Here is a tutorial showing how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I've attached a picture below showing its location on your car. The relay is in location 35 and I circled in red. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Hello,

Yes, it should. In the diagrams down below I have included the wiring diagram of the headlight circuits for your vehicle and a guide on how to track down unwanted resistance in an automotive electrical circuit with the voltage drop method. This guide will allow you to track down where the other 2.6 volts are being dropped at in the circuit before it reaches the headlight. You will need to use a Digital Multi-meter [DMM] to go through this guide, so here is a link below explaining how to use a DMM, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Good morning,

1. No, if it was the relay, both sides would not work.

2. It may depending on the bulb. The fact you only have 10 volts tells me you have a wiring issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I attached a diagram for you to view. Re test the voltage on the yellow wire.

Roy