Rough Idle

Tiny
GUSTAFA75
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
When it is sitting idling it almost feels like a misfire, an engine stutter, or bad gas. When driving down the road I can feel it a little bit. Refilled gas tank and it still has same issue. Wife states that she feels as if it is sluggish while trying to accelerate. I noticed this a little but nothing to major. At first I thought that it might be an engine mount but when I place it into drive and press brake and gas it only slightly moves.

Is there anything else that I can look at to determine issues with the idling?

I able to use most tools in the garage, since I was an electrician in the Air Force.

Thanks ahead of time.

Gus
Sunday, April 26th, 2015 AT 12:23 PM

33 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like the fuel pressure is low which will cause the issue. Check fuel pressure with a gauge here is a guide it should be 50-60 psi key on engine off and hold.

Here are two guides to help us fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Sunday, April 26th, 2015 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
GUSTAFA75
  • MEMBER
  • 21 POSTS
Just an update.I listened to each injector and they are all working. I took the intake system apart and the filter was clean, the MAF does not look like there is any damage or anything that is visibly broken. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. It had pretty thick build up on it so I got it completely clean. Cleaned as much of the actual intake as possible. I changed the throttle position sensor a while back. The Haynes manual says that there is a PCV sensor/valve, but when I went to the parts store (all 3 big ones) none of them had it and they said that it wasn't equipped with one? I read online that some of the lifters could be bad, but wouldn't have other issues?

Thanks,
Gus
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Sunday, April 26th, 2015 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
GUSTAFA75
  • MEMBER
  • 21 POSTS
HMAC300,

Thanks for the quick reply. I did have the fuel/pump assembly just replaced last year, but I will check the pressure again. The idle is rough while it is sitting still, not just isolated to after start-up. I have a friend who is a Chevy Mechanic and he put his computer on it and said that the pump was kicking codes. I replaced the pump and it worked after the initial start, but after I shut it off and restarted it never worked again. What I jumped was the power/ground (relay up under the Master Brake Cylinder) for the pump solenoid for it to turn it on.

As far as the idle I forgot in my last post that the problem still exists after cleaning the throttle body.

Thanks,
Gus
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Sunday, April 26th, 2015 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This sounds like the PCM is seeing the crankshaft sensor fail so it shuts the pump off here is the location of the sensor so you can change it out. Check the diagrams below.

Here is a video of the job being done on you car.

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SYSTEM VARIATION LEARN

1. Install a scan tool.
2. Monitor the engine control module (ECM) for DTCs with a scan tool. If other DTCs are set, except DTC P0315, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle for the applicable DTC that set.
3. Select the crankshaft position (CKP) variation learn procedure with a scan tool.
4. The scan tool instructs you to perform the following:
1. Accelerate to wide open throttle (WOT).
2. Release throttle when fuel cut-off occurs.
3. Observe fuel cut-off for applicable engine.
4. Engine should not accelerate beyond calibrated RPM value.
5. Release throttle immediately if value is exceeded.
6. Block drive wheels.
7. Set parking brake.
8. DO NOT apply brake pedal.
9. Cycle ignition from OFF to ON.
10.Apply and hold brake pedal.
11.Start and idle engine.
12.Turn A/C OFF.
13.Vehicle must remain in Park or Neutral.
14.The scan tool monitors certain component signals to determine if all the conditions are met to continue with the procedure. The scan tool only displays the condition that inhibits the procedure. The scan tool monitors the following components:
- CKP sensors activity-If there is a CKP sensor condition, refer to the applicable DTC that set.
- Camshaft position (CMP) sensor activity-If there is a CMP sensor condition, refer to the applicable DTC that set.
- Engine coolant temperature (ECT)-If the ECT is not warm enough, idle the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches the correct temperature.
5. Enable the CKP system variation learn procedure with a scan tool.

6. IMPORTANT: While the learn procedure is in progress, release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. The engine control is returned to the operator and the engine responds to throttle position after the learn procedure is complete.

Accelerate to WOT.
7. Release when the fuel cut-off occurs.
8. Test in progress
9. The scan tool displays Learn Status: Learned this ignition. If the scan tool indicates that DTC P0315 ran and passed, the CKP variation learn procedure is complete. If the scan tool indicates DTC P0315 failed or did not run, refer to DTC P0315. If any other DTCs set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle for the applicable DTC that set.
10.Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds after the learn procedure is completed successfully.
11.The CKP system variation learn procedure is also required when the following service procedures have been performed, regardless of whether DTC P0315 is set:
- A CKP sensor replacement
- An engine replacement
- A ECM replacement
- A harmonic balancer replacement
- A crankshaft replacement
- Any engine repairs which disturb the CKP sensor relationship

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Sunday, April 26th, 2015 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
BOOPERIII
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  • 1 POST
Replace the crankshaft sensor, fixed
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
MUNKEY1727
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 116,000 MILES
I own a 03 Chevy Suburban 4WD 5.3 liter. About a year ago. Fuel pump quit and was replaced. Since then during start up in cold weather vehicle runs and idles rough... Sometimes it will stall... After vehicle warms, runs fine. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and Mass Air Flow senor. I recently purchased a code reader which gave me the following codes P0171- System too lean (Bank1) and Po174- System too lean (Bank 2). Has anybody had the same problem?
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
The coolant temp sensor may cause temp related issues? You can clean throttle-body and iac/idle air control. Use a gage and check fuel pressure, key on engine off, first thing in the morning.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKLIS10
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Sounds like an o2 sensor had problem with a lebaron
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
I want to second JDLs recommendation to test the fuel pressure. This engine is very sensitive to fuel pressure. It requires a minimum of 55 PSI to run.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKLIS10
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
That is true he does need to check pressure never hurts. But that is similar to how my lebaron acted and ran fine after o2 sensor was replaced. Can anyone help with stalling problem with my 01 galant?
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKLIS10
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Scratch that sorry I did also have to replace my fuel pump as well as my o2 sensor again sorry for the mix up
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TINA AND JACK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 53,000 MILES
We have replaced all 4 O2 sensors, and the mass air flow sensor, and fuel filter. It still has a rough engine idle when the car is cold and check engine light comes on. What now? Only 53,000 miles on it.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THOHARRI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Try running some injector and fuel system cleaner
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Look niklis10, If you have a problem with your car, start a question about it but please refrain from giving advice to other people on a subject you have no knowledge in. This is not an 0/2 sensor problem.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hey, is this a flex-fuel vehicle? If the mil comes on, check the codes. Some of the national brand autostores will check codes for free. Any code you get doesn't tell you what to replace, always check the wiring circuits.

Unmetered air can cause a rough idle, it may seal off after the vehicle warms-up.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NIKLIS10
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
That's why I replied (scratch that sorry I did also have to replace fuel pump as well as my o2 sensor!) And who are yo to say I have no knowledge in this iv been working on cars BY MYSELF since I was 13 so I think I might know a thing or 2. And I did post a question I thought when you were done with him you might be nice enough to help me guess not. And now look what this guy has to look at on his page. But hey thanks wrench and sorry monkey
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
First off, I was typing my response at the same time you were posting your last response so I hadn't seen it yet.
We don't address multiple questions or vehicles within the same question and it's very easy for me to see how much knowledge you have by the advice you give. There are professionals here on staff to handle the answers. You stick with the questions. You're only confusing people.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERESA BURKE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 197,000 MILES
My Vehicle recently started to idle rough when I use the heater or air conditioner. It feels like its going to die while waiting at stop lights. Then today it has started to idle rough without the heater or air conditioner running. It would only do it every so often until now. Now its doing it every time I drive it. Also no check engine light or codes. I Also feel it while driving, almost feels like the transmission is slipping. But I know it is not the transmission. Also loss of power like the brake is on every time you accelerate. Do anyone have any idea what could be causing these problems?
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Before you go looking for the hard stuff, charge the battery at a slow rate for an hour with a portable battery charger. Unplug the small connector on the side / rear of the generator, then drive the vehicle to see if the symptoms are different or cleared up.

If things are different, have the charging system tested for maximum full-load output current and "ripple" voltage. If current is exactly one third of what it should be and ripple voltage is high, the generator has a failed diode and will need to be replaced. The third potential symptom of a failed diode is elusive engine running problems. This generator design used by GM starting with 1987 models develops huge, harmful voltage spikes that can damage the internal voltage regulator, short one of the six diodes, and interfere with computer sensor signals. The secret is voltages can be "induced" into sensors' signal wires, and while the resulting voltages the Engine Computer sees are incorrect, they fall within the acceptable range, therefore no diagnostic fault codes are set. About half of the over 2000 potential fault codes will turn on the Check Engine light, so if there's no fault codes, there will be no Check Engine light either. The Engine Computer will accept the false sensor readings and try to run on them.

The most important part of my story is if the generator is found to be developing only one third of its rated maximum current and ripple voltage is high, you must replace the battery and generator at the same time to reduce the high number of repeat failures, ... Unless the battery is less than about two years old. Repeat generator failures on GM vehicles are very common, but it is mainly caused by those voltage spikes they develop, and those spikes are dampened and absorbed by the battery. Batteries lose their ability to do that as they age and the lead flakes off the plates. It might crank the engine just fine, but it's no longer able to absorb those harmful voltage spikes. If you don't replace the battery when this happens, it's common to go through four to six replacement generators in the life of the vehicle.
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SOUTHBAYRUN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 120,000 MILES
It happended all of a sudden while driving with no signs of any problem, engine stall, wouldnt start, after sitting engine start but would not idle and not enough power to move had to pump pedal to keep running. No engine light on, changed fuel filter and it got alittle better it would idle ok but when useing throddle have to pump to keep up rpm but would hold about 3500rpm steady for 5-6 seconds before having to pump pedal, I have owned my suburban for 11 years with no problem any thoughts on problem
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Thursday, November 21st, 2019 AT 6:34 PM (Merged)

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