I think it could be something with the electronic brake force distribution

Hi,

Replacing the brake pads and rotors isn't too big of a job. Usually, you can expect them to last around 25,000 miles, but that is based on driving habits.

First, here is a link that shows how to replace brakes and rotors in general. You can use it as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

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2006 Nissan-Datsun Maxima V6-3.5L (VQ35DE)
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Procedures Front
FRONT

pic 1

Removal and Installation of Brake Pad

REMOVAL
1. Remove wheel and tire using power tool.
2. Remove lower sliding pin bolt.

pic 2

3. Hang the cylinder body with a wire and remove the pads, pad retainers, and shims from the torque member.

CAUTION: When removing the pad retainer from the torque member, lift the pad retainer in the direction shown by the arrow, so as not to deform it.

INSTALLATION
1. Apply Molykote AS880N grease to the rear of the pad and to both sides of the shim, and attach the inner shim and shim cover to the inner pad and the outer shim to the outer pad.
2. Attach the pad retainer and pad to the torque member.

pic 3

CAUTION: When attaching the pad retainer, attach it firmly so that it does not float up higher than the torque member, as shown.

3. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach the cylinder body to the torque member.

NOTE: Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), makes it easier to push in the piston.

CAUTION: By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the level of the surface of the reservoir tank.

4. Install the sliding pin bolt and tighten to specification. Refer to BR-23, Component.
5. Check brake for drag.
6. Install wheel and tire.

CAUTION: Burnish the brake contact surfaces when refinishing or replacing brake rotors, after replacing pads or linings, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.

_____________________________________________________

2006 Nissan-Datsun Maxima V6-3.5L (VQ35DE)
Removal and Installation
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Rotor/Disc Service and Repair Procedures Front Removal and Installation
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal and Installation of Caliper Assembly and Disc Rotor

pic 4

REMOVAL
1. Remove wheel and tire using power tool.
2. Drain brake fluid.
3. Remove union bolt if necessary, and torque member bolts using power tool, then remove caliper assembly.
4. Remove disc rotor.
- Prior to removing disc rotor, make alignment mark using a marker between the hub and disc rotor, if reusing disc rotor.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION:
- Refill with new brake fluid.
- Never reuse drained brake fluid.

1. Install disc rotor.
- Align marks made during removal on the hub and disc rotor, if reusing disc rotor.

pic 5

2. Install caliper assembly to the vehicle, and tighten torque member bolts to specification. Refer to BR-23, "Component".

CAUTION: When attaching the caliper assembly to the vehicle, wipe any oil off the knuckle spindle washers and caliper assembly attachment surfaces.

pic 6

3. Install brake hose to the caliper assembly, and tighten union bolt to specification. Refer to BR-23, "Component".

CAUTION:
- Do not reuse the copper washer for union bolts.
- Attach the brake hose to the protrusion on the caliper assembly attachment part.

4. Refill reservoir with new brake fluid and bleed air.
5. Install wheel and tire.

CAUTION: Burnish the brake contact surfaces when refinishing or replacing brake rotors, after replacing pads or linings, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.

_________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe

I have attached the process out of the manual and attached a couple guides here that will help with this. Let me know if you still need some more info and I will see what we can find. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested about front brake pad replacement. First, here is a tutorial to view on the subject:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

With this wobble issue you mentioned it could actually be something other than your front rotors warped which could cause this. It is also possible it could be out of balance tires, a front end alignment needed, or front wheel bearings causing this condition. I've attached picture steps below that you requested in regards to replacing the front pads and rotors on your car. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Does it look something like these pieces. If it is, your brake pads re not seated right on the bracket. You have to re-do/re-seat the brake pads on that side.

What do you mean by "recently"? If new rotors were put on about three months before the pulsation started they are likely the rotors and have "aged" on the car. We let cast iron parts age 90 days before their final machining. Have the new rotors machined lightly and they will be fine. If the problem started right away when new rotors were installed, most commonly one is warped, but you also have to check for debris like rust and scale stuck between the rotor and hub. That often gets overlooked during normal brake service.

If you hear grinding sounds when you apply the brakes:
* The most common cause for this condition is when the lining has worn past its service limit and the metal plate is contacting the rotor.
* Some drivers may experience a grinding noise only when the pedal is slightly applied and the vehicle is moving very slow (such as slightly releasing the pedal from a stop position). This operation is normal.

If your brakes squeal when you don’t have your foot on the pedal:
* It is possible the wear indicator is contacting the rotor because the linings are too thin. It could be time to change your brakes.
* Caliper slide pins that are not properly lubricated may bind causing brake drag. Also, corroded brake hardware and/or bracket will cause brake drag as well.

If the head is not deystroyed you can use a impact screwdriver. If they are stripped you can use a whiz wheel cutter and cut a slot in the bolt then use a regular screwdriver to remove it. Also you can use a torch.

There is no certain interval at which to replace the brakes. However, they should be inspected every 7,000 miles recommended by the dealer as the braking system is a necessity for a vehicle to be driven safely.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com!

You wont find that kind of information in an owner's manual. Owner's manuals tell you how to operate the car, not how to repair it.

Any auto parts store will have the brake pads for your car or they can order them and have them in a day or two. Sometimes there's multiple applications based on optional equipment like heavy duty vs. Standard brakes. They'll ask you relevant information like engine size, two or four-door, etc.

The most important factor with brake linings is the front and rear were matched at the factory to provide a specific "coefficient of friction", and that must be maintained for even braking front-to-rear. Aftermarket suppliers of brake pads and shoes adhere to those same specifications. Sometimes a lining may present more friction than the originals, so they will be narrower or shorter, but they'll still fit and install the same way.

There's a whole bunch of things professionals do to prevent causing brake noises and pulsations, and there's a lot of things do-it-yourselfers can do to causes those things. I can run through the list if you want me to.