Why does the battery drain down?

The guide showed me it was the fuel pump relay stuck on, thank you.

I have rebuilt two alternators and bought a new one. All three have the same problem(Denso 160 amp presently in the PU, Bosch 130 amp and TYC 130 amp). I think I have ruled out the alternator as the problem. The situation is at start up the alternator reads 14.45v. As I drive the PU throughout the day the voltage starts dropping slowly 14.4, 14.3 14.2.13.9v. Steady voltage is wanted. 14.7 to 13.7v about the limit range. I am going to list what has been tested.
- Battery keeps the charge after couple of hours sitting with everything off on the PU is 12.67v. PU starts with no problem. A night of sitting the battery was reading 12.4v in the morning. After testing parasitic mA drain, found out about fuse 51 drawing 1000 mA! I pull the fuse to stop the drain. This a factory set up to keep radio, in cabs lights and bells and whistles ready. Poor design. I thought this would help my situation to no avail. This why the 12.4v read on the battery.
- At idle, Alternator +B post and positive battery post read the same 14.12v.
- At idle, negative side to alternator frame(gnd) 14.12v. Same as the +B read.
- Cleaned all (3) ground connections which lead from the negative battery terminal.
- Checked all negative and positive wires from alternator to battery.
- Engine at 1500 rpm and everything turned on lights, AC, mirror heaters, radio etc. Measured the positive side of the alternator at 95 mV and negative side 106 mV.
- Checking for parasitic drain (mA), isolated the 1.0 amp drain the PU had about 20 mA drain read.

So far I have removed the underhood lamp to be cleaned. Bulb is gone. Need to replace. Now for the other modules I have not pulled the connections. Where exactly is the Free Hands Module to be found behind the front dash panel of the PU? As the schematic shows " behind left side of dash"? What does the Free Hands module look like so be easier to find?

Understand this correctly. Battery is fully charged at 12.7 v plus higher voltage 1.5 v = 14.2 v. So, if charging is at 13.9 v then I have a problem? I have had this voltage reading this week on the Dodge ram. Most of the time the alternator is between 14.0 - 14.1 v. Will this work at these levels? Also, with the 12.4 battery reading in the morning, the PU has a 1000 mA drain from fuse 51. Was asked to unplugged the Free Hands Module first in that circuit to find which module has the amperage drop. Under the dash, knowing where to look and what it looks like would be a great help. I am guessing, is behind the radio or same area?

I have dodge diesel 3500. Battery dies after 3 days of sitting. Replaced w/2new battery's no improvement. When I first crank up the truck amp gauge showing a load about a 13volts after couple mins, of runing. Alternator goes to no load at 14+ volts. I thought it was voltage regulator at this point, so I changed alternator. Same problems. Shows load and goes to no loads. Battery Still dies.
The only none factory item on the truck is extra fuel tank which has 12volt switch over. I just want to mention this so you'll have all the info.
Appreciated very much for your help. Thanks, Herb

Had the alternator and battery ck'd. Alternator is working fine and the battery passed the load test. Running at 14.0 to 14.1 v is normal as mentioned. My attention will be finding the 1.0 amp drain on fuse 51. Had look see under the steering wheel with the one panel removed and couldn't see anything that is Free Hand Module. Behind the radio?

No. It is all basic stuff. Radio/ CD player and speakers in the doors. I bought the PU used. Not sure what it now has and what it did have. It has a trailer towing package. That's it. All standard stuff. Thanks for heads up on the battery and alternator reminder. Still trying to find the drain on fuse 51. Was the Free Hands Module standard with all 05 Rams PU? What I can find on U tube that the FHM is a small metal box with a multi pin plug in the back of it. If so, I don't think I have one. I looked from HVAC to the driver side door under the dash.

I have a brand new battery, it keeps going dead. I noticed I am getting a buzzing sound coming from the instrument cluster. So I disconnected the negative battery cable and put a test light in between cable and battery and it lights up. Pulling all fuses including fuse 51 no change.
So I took a volt meter and checked for voltage at the disconnected negative battery terminal and found 6.2v. I removed instrument cluster and disconnected 26 pin gray connector and voltage went away. I looked at some posts and every one was saying horn pad. So I disconnected horn wire from pad and I still have 6.2v with cluster connected. So my best guess is the cluster has some internal short.
Has anyone ran into this problem?
Thank you

Thank you Ken.
I replaced cluster before I received you response and that did solve the problem. The video had good information, i'll keep that for the future. Thank you again for your help.

I have a parasitic draw of a little more than an amp that I have traced to the center plug on the instrument cluster. Unplug center plug and no draw. Also the horn is constant on. Unplug center plug and no horn. Tried disconnecting the forward control module that houses the horn relay and also no horn. Still have parasitic draw. Pull horn fuse and also no horn. Still have parasitic draw. Took it to a shop and had an electrical expert look at it with no luck. He tried a used cluster with no change. Unlikely both clusters have the same problem but not impossible. Any help?