Engine Won't Start?

when you drove throught the water it got sucked up throught the air box and into the intake,when this happens the engine becomes hyda-locked,which means water enters the combustion chamber and floods the engine,and in most cases bends a connecting rod on one of the pistons.(because water cant be compressed) so it bends the rod causing it to not start,I would check the oil for any signs of water and I would try to rotate the engine at the crankshaft to see if it rotates smooth or locks up and that will tell you.post back with any other questions.

THis guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

[quote:6367552ae1="brian 1"]try to rotate the engine at the crankshaft to see if it rotates smooth[/quote:6367552ae1]
How would I do this?
Thanks

usually a socket and rachet on the end of the crankshaft bolt,then try and rotate the engine and see if it turns smoothly or is locked up,and check the oil level,see if its over full and has water in it.

I checked the oil level and it's pretty hard to tell what it's at the oil isn't sticking to the dipstick very well. I also checked my air filter and it was wet.
Thanks

Hi,
I got the car scanned to see why the check engine light was on. It's giving code p0103 which is P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency ECM, PCM, can anyone decipher this for me?

Thanks

Start the engine and observe the MAF Sensor parameter for a proper range of 4,950-5,025 Hz.
⇒ If the MAF Sensor parameter is not within the specified range, replace the ECM.

⇒ If the MAF Sensor parameter is within the specified range, replace the MAF sensor. follow this info.

Thanks for continually replying to my brian I just have a quick question, would this sensor prevent the car from starting? Also I noticed when I attempt the start the car the security light is on, could that have anything to do with it? I also cleared the code so the check engine light would turn off, but it's still on and there's no codes being shown.

Thanks

well,no the MAF sensor wouldnt prevent it from starting it would give an idle surge or unstable idle.the security light is a different problem,actually you have 2 different problems here.I know you ran throught water with this vehicle,which could definitly affect the MAF sensor.

Other Category problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt 6 cyl 60000 miles
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i changed my fuel filter and now the car won't start. i also replaced the rubber boots that fit onto the sparkplugs

turn the key on and off a few times,the try to start it.
also make sure you have all your electrical connectors plugged in.

it almost seems like the fuel pump is not working... this whole endeavor was prompted by getting a random/multiple misfire code in conjunction w/ very rough engine idling and running. this happened w/o warning. it ran fine when i parked it then when i went to start it the next day it ran poorly. could a flakey fuel pump have been my trouble all along?

[quote:c85270f3d2="fstop"]it almost seems like the fuel pump is not working... this whole endeavor was prompted by getting a random/multiple misfire code in conjunction w/ very rough engine idling and running. this happened w/o warning. it ran fine when i parked it then when i went to start it the next day it ran poorly. could a flakey fuel pump have been my trouble all along?[/quote:c85270f3d2]
The fuel pump could definately be the problem.You should check the pressure to make sure.

I'm working on my sister inlaw's 06 Cobalt that won't start. I've checked fuel pressure (60psi), spark, fuses and swapped around the relays. It will fire with starting fluid but thats all. I even reset the passlock. When I hook up my scanner it shows no injector pulse and plugs are dry.

. When I hook up my scanner it shows no injector pulse and plugs are dry. Check if the injectors are getting power if so could be the ground driver's within the computer

Engine Mechanical problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt Automatic 60000 miles

This morning, I tried to start the car as usual. It wouldn't start. When I cranked it, my dash showed the "Security Light" (picture of a car and a lock), and the engine light. The car clicked and made a small whine.
At first, I couldn't get the key out. After giggling it, it came out. I thought that the steering wheel wasn't locked (that's what I thoguht the Security light was for before looking in the book.)
I have manual locks and I don't think I have an alarm system, so I don't think this is really a security issue. I looked at other sites and they all said to leave the key in on "On" (without cranking) for 10-30 minutes and the lock will "reset" and the car will start.
When I left the key in on "On," everything started flashing- my control panel, my radio, the temperature, my headlights, and some of the warning lights in the dash. Also, the car kept clicking. The clicking and flashing would go in 15-20 second intervals. Then the car would be still and quiet for a few seconds and the clicking/flashing would start again.
After a couple minutes with the key in the ignition, my "Battery Saver On" light came up. At that point, I took the key out because I didn't want the battery to die out on me, too.
(I know the Cobalt has had a fuel pump recall but I already fixed that... But I have not done anything with the Power Steering which has also been recalled.)
What else should I try before calling the dealership?

Sound's like you have a bad ignition switch pretty common causing a no start and the security light to come on.You will have to go to a shop that can read your body control module code's and see if you have a B3033 and or B2960 then i would replace the ignition switch.

2006 Chevy Cobalt

my friend's car just stopped working yesterday night on the interstate so he pulled off and went and bought a new battery. after putting in the new battery the car still refused to turn over and start, so this morning they had it towed to a repair shop. after replacing the starter the car still would not turn over and start. what is wrong with his car?

did you check fuel pressure and spark? an engine has to have 3 things to run,fuel spark and air,its missing one of these.post back with what you find.

2006 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L. I first had a problem with it when it didn't want to start. It died on me while driving and I had it towed to a mechanic. They said it was a bad battery and they replaced it. My car ran great for about a month, and it started stalling on my when I came to a stop. Usually about once a week, and then gradually over the next few weeks it would happen more and more. The SES light came on so I plugged in a pocket scanner and it gave me 2 codes, p0335, and p0336. So I bought a new ckp sensor and installed it. Then went to try to restart my car to see if the ckp sensor fixed my problems and it wouldn't start. It would crank, but not fire. I checked the ignition coils and there was no spark, so I replaced the ignition coil and it did nothing. I also heard I should check my G103 ground. I'm at a loss, and don't feel like footing another 100 or more dollars to have my car towed to a mechanic so they can charge me even more for something I could possibly do.

check for a chaffed wire near the purge solenoid,which would cause a short to ground,and when replaceing a crank pos sensor it has to be relearned with a tech 2 scan tool or the vehicle will never start.the reason there is no spark is because the crank sensor has to see crankshaft RPM for it to have spark.also check the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft for damage.start here first and post back with what you find,you might have a deeper problem.

car wont start, -20 celcius last few days, im thinking its old oil as the day the car didnt start I was on my way in get an oil change... ive filled the anti freeze, but only after the car didnt start.

So does it no crank engine not spinning over not start?Is the security light on when it won't start?

getting nothing but clicking... all the lights on the display go on... not sure what the security light is...

When you turn the key to the run position is there a light on the dash that looks like a lock or something that looks like it has something to do with security?

yes there is... engine light and also security lock light... I should mention also.. the day it didnt start, I was on my way in for an appointment to have an oil change and have a engine overheating symbol checked.. also.. my heating had stopped working.. blowing cold air...

Alright one thing at a time first let's see if it we can start it.Those cars are known for bad ignition switches causing no starts with temps under 30 degree's. Let's try this try to start it then let the key go back to the run position.Wait till the security light shuts off should e about ten minutes. Then turn the key to the off position for ten seconds. Then repeat those steps two more times.By the fourth time of you trying to start it going thru those cycles it may start.If it does you will have to have your body control module scanned for codes.A diyer scan tool can't do that if you have a code B2960 and or B3033 bad ignition switch.

Why wont it start? Battery is good clean termanals are good clean. turn key to start and just clicks rapidly, not starter click just dash noise clicks. cannot hear fuel pump, seems like the battery is dead but its not. when turning the key all the lights go off irradicly with clicking noise, when it sops clicking the lights come back on solidly. thank you for any help!

Battery good how did you test it? Answer this and we'll continue-

i tried it, first few times the security light went off within seconds but the engine light stayed on, after the third time several lights just went on and off, as did the mileage display air bags and seat belt.. on off on off on off.. the locks also sounded like they were locking unlocking...

battery tester, its a brand new batt.i even have it on a battery jump box when attempting to strart it.

Sound like the battery is dead or bad as the battery charged and tested.Also make sure the battery cables are clean and tight.Then see how it goes.

Okay i tried to start again and i do apologize the starter is clicking as well i jumped the starter and i can only get it to spin it will pop out too but will not pop out and spin to crank motor. The start of all this happened when i was driving and the car just died. i pulled over towed it home. only the engine light is on now.

but would all the cabin lights come on with a dead battery? ill try my booster pack again and see.. thanks for all your help...

update: i turned the motor with a wrench and tried starting it. it tried to start then stopped ; i couldnt turn the motor anymore to the right seemed like it was siezed turning it that way however it did turn to the left no problem tried starting again same thing, cranks for half a sec then stops like it locks up could this be esult of timing chain?

Yes just because the side lights are working doesn't mean the battery isn't dead.

My son's '06 Cobalt SS lost power and began running rough. Error code pointed to a bad fuel injector. After replacing injector, car will not start at all. Is there anything else that needs to be done besides replacing the bad injector ?

Do below to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Go to this link for more information: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

Thank you for your answer. Sounds like all the typical troubleshooting steps. I just wanted to make sure that there is nothing in particular about replacing an injector that I might have missed. Seems odd that it ran before the replacement, but won't start at all after.

Just wanted to add to this one.So was the engine running really rich and that is why you thought it had a bad injector?I have seen bad mass airflow sensors cause the engine to run really rich on those cars.Also have seen Loose connections to the baro sensor cause the car to die and not start.