Power steering issue

You are right, your's is an electrical power steering system. It has a motor for assist instead of a pump and fluid. It's controlled by it's own computer which uses sensor inputs to control the amount of assist.

The steering computer is monitored the main computer. If there's a problem you should've gotten a code. Is there any check engine lights on? If so, scan the computer. Also, you can visually check the wiring/connectors at the motor/computer/angle sensor, etc.

Please follow this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

It is the EPS indicator that you should be checking.

EPS INDICATOR
Under normal conditions, the EPS indicator comes on when the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position, then goes off after the engine is started. This indicates that the bulb and its circuit are operating correctly.

If there is any trouble in the system after the engine is started, the EPS indicator will stay on, and the power assist is turned off.

When EPS indicator light comes on, the control unit memorizes the DTC. In this case, the control unit will not activate the EPS system after the engine starts again, but it keeps the EPS indicator on.

When DTC 12, 16, 17, 18, or 67 is stored in the control unit, the EPS indicator will stay on until the DTC is erased. When a problem is detected and the EPS indicator comes on, there are cases when the indicator stays on until the ignition switch is turned OFF, and cases when the indicator goes off automatically when the system returns to normal. Even though the system is operating normally, the EPS indicator will come on under the following conditions:

Condition 1 (CVT model only):

†The A/T shift lever position is in other than N or P position.
†The vehicle's speed is 1 mph (1 km/h) or below and engine is running at 1,900 rpm or above for 90 seconds (DTC 27).

Condition 2:

†When the vehicle speed is 6.2 mph (10 km/h) or above and the engine is running at 280 rpm or below for 3 seconds (DTC 23).

Condition 3:

†The shift lever is in neutral.
†The clutch pedal is depressed.
†The vehicle's speed is above 13 mph (20 km/h) for more than 60 seconds.

To determine the actual cause of the problem, question the customer about the conditions during which the problem occurred, taking the above conditions into consideration.

For code retrieval you either use a Honda Diagnostic System or manually use a jumper across terminal 4 and 9 of the DLC and read the blinking code of the EPS light with ignition switch turned on.

The EPS module is monitored by the PCM and will store that code. If you want to save money, then you want to avoid going to a dealer. If the parts store's scanner isn't capable of reading the manufacturers specific code, then you can go to a shop who has a scanner updated for your model/year.

The majority of complaints I've seen with the EPS was in the wiring/connector or Angle position sensor. Not that this will be your problem, but keep in mind, if you get a code for the angle sensor it means there's a problem in the circuit, not that the sensor is necessarily bad. But that usually is the case, make sure you check the wiring/connectors before replacing the sensor.

First before you replace anything have a mechanic scan for codes as it may not be the module besides he would have to program it once it's installed. You just can't replace it

You don't need to get it pro scanned a regular scanner will do it here is a guide to help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Has it the hybrid or 12 volt car battery? Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.