CRANK POSITION SENSOR?

Inspect the pluse wheel under the crank shaft sensor for damage coming apart etc.

ok i thought thats what the next step is. I would like to see an exploded view of what the pulse wheel looks like and possibly the steps to access it. i think I have to pull the transmission away from the engine block.Any ideas also why the wheel might com apart since it is inside of the transmission bellhousing? i think that we might have to realize that there is a VSS p0500 code and maybe with that being said, a VSS issue could have caused the crank shaft position sensor problem i have now. Note: I have not investigated the VSS p0500 code or the VSS sensor at all, can a faulty VSS sensor damage the pulse wheel or a trans problem? thnank you

I dont have a diagram of pluse wheel i have been looking in all the info i have.So the crank shaft position sensor goes into the transmission clutch housing?Looks like it from the diagram i have of that.Is the speed sensor damaged?Its in that general area of the crank sensor.

the CPS is bolted in by one torx head screw. it is bolted on the engine and sticks into a hole so the sensor can protrude into the clutch housing area. i have not removed the VSS yet i will and let you know. what excites the VSS? the same exact pulse wheel? would really like help with a location of the VSS and also any diagrams you have related to any of this,as I am a visual person. i wonder if we could find the maintenance procedure to replace the pulse wheel that would help me know if its bolted to the crank and how to replace it.

Heres what i have on the vss its not going to be the same wheel as the crank sensor.Because the crank sensor measure crank speed.The vss measures the differnetial speed in the transmission.Iam trying to find more on the crank sensor wheel there isnt much on it.Use a mirror and flash light to get a look at it thru the hole.If its inside the transmission clutch housing you will have to pull the transmission at some point.

well, i can tell you that the crankshaft sensor does protrude into the clutch housing but its bolted to the flange of the engine where the trans bell housing bolts to, so we can say it does rely upon interaction with the pulse wheel located in the clutch housing. it is hard to get a mirror and light in there but i will try. i will remove the vss and trans. i will have to remove the trans im sure because the pulse wheel is inside there. i hope there is not too much crank endplay or something. any info on removing the manual transmission? list of steps please thanks

Heres how you remove the transmisson check it with a mirror before pulling the transmission.

ok i will try very hard to check it with a mirror. it is very hard because the hole for the cranksensor to go in is only the size of between a nickel and a quarter and in a bad location to see. maybe its possible to sled the trans back a little bit a few inches to actually go and look inside there. i will let you know. i know that when i try to stick a new crankshaft position sensor in the hole the sensor will bottom out on something before it will not mount flush to the mounting surface, so something is wrong enough to not let the sensor seat properly to the mounting area surface. i still have to inspect the VSS and try check with a mirror and let you know. i wish we could see the pulse wheel how it suppose to look in a maintenance manual.

When you get it apart you will be able to insert the crank sensor to see whats happening.Still havent found any diagrams.

i drained the trans oil and started disconnecting the shifter linkage and clutch cylinder. any help with the axle removal? once the steering knuckle is out of the way do the axles have snap rings where i have to pull a little hard or will they just slide out? help with removing the axles would be nice! i see that there is a thru bolt holding the lower control arm to the ball joint area.what kind of trans gear oil should i put back in later and how much? i looked thru the hole with a mirror and it was really hard to see thru the hole.

Here is the fill level hole.

If you have the axle nut off and the axle out of the knuckle?Then you just have to remove the axle from the transmission.There is a clip on the end of the axle that helps hold the axle in the transmission.But the axle still justs pops out of the transmission.As far as fluid in the transmission fluid goes it takes 75W-90 the front wheel drive ones hold about 2.85qts.

can you find some sketches of the clutch pressure plate etc installation maybe with the trans removed then i can maybe see what it looks like before i remove the trans and maybe something else might show up there. thanks for the help with the axles what size nut is the axle nut. its pretty big

Theres the diagram you requested.As far as what size the axle nut is not sure.Axle nuts are from 30-36mm usually if i had to take a guess i would say 32mm.They rent the axle sockets at auto zone though.

ok i pulled the transmission. i used a 1 1/4 inch socket on the axle nut and it worked fine. after i pulled the trans i could see the pressure plate and the clutch and still not able to see the crank sensor. it looked exatly like the picture above. i took the clutch and pressure plate off then i removed the flywheel because i still could not see anything so once i removed the flywheel i can see now that the flywheel has holes drilled all around the circumfrence if it on the engine side of the flywheel. and i saw that the crank sensor was rubbing directly on the flywheel where it is supposed to just barely get close to it in order to function (gap) .i will try to upload photos tomorrow.i am thinking maybe the engine crankshaft has endplay.I am not sure. i do know the crank sensor when it is installed touched the flywheel.

Sounds like you could have worn crank shaft main bearings.with the fly wheel back on take a pry bar between the fly wheel and engine block.Gently pry againist the block and see if there is play in the crank.Also if you can i wouls like to see pics.

I put the flywheel back on and pryed on it and there was play, a substantial amount between 1/4 to 1/2 inch play. have to examin how the crank main bearings are,

more photos

Now we know why your sensor is getting torn up the main/thrust bearings are worn allowing the crank shaft to walk back and fourth.They wear faster in manual transmissions from what i have seen.But i wouldnt think it would happen so soon in your case you only have a 140,000 miles.

is it possible to change the thrust bearing in the car? maybe drop the oil pan and go in there and do some surgery?

You should be able to since you already removed the transmission and flywheel.The main thing is no extra weight on the crankshaft.You can pull the crank shaft down a little to get them in and out.Just make sure you dont pop a piston or ring out of the cylinder.

ok can you provide information and /or pictures of how the thrust bearings are set up inside. ie: how many; what location; and how i should go about changing them.

There is one thrust bearing its in the center of the crank shaft see if the side lip on them is worn away?I posted all the info on it i could find.It only tells you how to remove it with the rods unbolted and dropping the crankshaft out.Your best bet would be to remove the crank mark all the connecting rods caps positions.They have to go back in the same position.ALso use some assembly lube when putting it back together.ALso measure the crankshaft mains journal and crankshaft rod journals on the crankshaft itself.I posted the specs

OK i see the thrust bearing in the center and i understand what it does. would it help to know that the person i bought the tribute from stated that the timing belt had been recently changed and upon initial investigation of the no start condition initialy, i noticed that the cover around the crank pulley had been losened. can you find out info and pictures relating to the timing belt change and especially the area around the crank pulley? i am going to investigate that area for problems because i know someone was messing around there and i just though at first someone was looking for the crank sensor and could not find it so the unbolted the plastic cover around the crank pulley area and notedthey could not find the crank sensor.i am going to investigate that area of the engine next.maybe they did not do a good job on the timing belt install and messed up something. also as a side note the tributes thermostat was all corroded and malfunctioning and rusty water was leaking all over the bellhousing area of the trans but it should not affect anything. i thought it initialy messed up the crank sensor wiring but then when i pulled out the crank sensor itself it was worn off.

I posted all the things done when doing the timing belt all you have to do is make sure everything is installed right and tightend up.If the belt was miss aligned you would have known that when you first drove the car.

ok. I only got it started after i installed new crank sensor and at that time it ran pretty bad as if it was only 3 cylinders or something(bad performance). and eventually it would not run at all after the flywheel damaged the crank sensor tip so bad, so i don't ever know how the car ran with everything functioning properly.it seems that the crankshaft thrust bearing is the only thing that controls the movement side to side.

Yes it is the only thing that keeps the crankshaft centered.

the thrust bearing gets tightened last. how do you align the thrust bearing and what is the crankshaft endplay spec?

The only info i could find on aligning the thrust bearing is what i have already posted.

well i pulled the crankshaft out and the thrust bearing is really worn on one side and it also grinded a big groove in the crankshaft. i think the crank is unservicable for sure. so i need to get a set of bearings and a new crank.I will attatch pics tomorrow. so now i have to find a crank and bearings and the gasket for the windage tray along with any other gaskets. the crank might be hard to get i dont know

Sorry to here that they have the crank bearings seals gaskets etc at www.rockauto.com i always copy amd paste the part numbers at amazon for beter prices free shiping etc.The problem is they have a core charge on the crank and you have to ship iut back.So i would shop around i would to see pics of it.Also talk to a machine shop and see what they can do for you.

pics

Looks like you found your problem.

Need to find out where the crankshaft position sensor. 2.0L engine.

Good morning,

Below is the procedure and a picture.

It is under the exhaust manifold.

Roy

Removal and Installation

1. Remove the exhaust manifold.


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2. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
2. Remove the bolt.
3. Remove the sensor.

3. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

exhaust manifold

Removal

1. Remove the catalytic convener.
2. Lower the vehicle.


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3. Remove the oil level indicator and tube bracket bolt.

CAUTION: Do not work on the aluminum engine components until the engine is cold or damage may occur.


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4. Remove the six bolts and three nuts and remove the exhaust manifold.
1. Discard the gasket.

Thank you, that was so helpful. I will let you know how I get on.

This guide will give you the step by step instructions:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

I found the crankshaft sensor located behind the exhaust manifold however the connector wire is severely frayed how do I change the connector wire 2001 Mazda Tribute 2l?

You will need to release the wiring from the sensor and bring it to an area you can work with it. Then you need to go to a parts store and get a pigtail for the crank sensor. That is the connector with the wire attached. You just have to join the wires from the harness to the the new connector. I would solder and shrink wrap the wires for a good connection.

Roy

I am having trouble locating the camshaft sensor on my 2003 Mazda Tribute 2L.