2004 Kia Amanti will not turn over since replacing plugs and wires.

I visually examined all the fuses under dash and under hood - all ok. The large fuses that do not have visual indicator. No idea as to state.

Will repeat checking with light

Under hood there is a large 4 pronged fuse 'start'

How do I test this type

After removing the 'start' fuse lots of clicking and clacking noises. A few followed a few minutes later by audible humming/hissing

Clarification - should I test the fuse slot looking for positive (12 v light conected to groundt turns on) or test the fuse itself?

If fuse - how?

I am referring to the big multi pronged fuses.

I checked all the small fuses -under dash the following look ok but could not get any light even after taking out and directly probing fuse slot: 10 amp B/alarm, 10amp tail LP (RH), 10am tail LP (LH), 20 amp heated mireorder

All the small ones under hood checked out. No sure how to test the medium sized and large ones

Recap:

recent repairs over last couple months - new battery, replaced vehicle speed sensor on transmission

there are no codes in the OBD II. Codes get generated after trying to repeatedly start but after clearing codes and leaving engine alone for awhile, on next re-start no codes, keep trying to start a few more times then codes start -throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, mass air flow sensor

I tested the injectors using a noid light; illuminated/blinked when trying to start

Found The ignition coil condenser wire (looks like a simple ground wire but not sure) was crushed to point where 50% wire strands broken. I connected the frayed ends with a wire nut.

As part of initial tune up, I replaced several vacuum lines. However, I later discovered that several of them had a small orifice 'jet' inside and so swapped back in as many as I could.

The wire harness to the spark plugs/coils was not active when tested with 12v test light, ground checked out ok

Fuses- 3 locations: under dash, under hood drivers side relay box, under hood passenger side (only 2 fuses here- big ones )

Under dash there are 4 rows of 8 and a main fuse in large plastic holder. All checked out except b/alarm, tail lights, and heated mirror

the tail light fuses became hot when I turned on the car lights. When lights were off could not get anything even if I directly probed the fuse slot with 12v test light

I was going to try the same thing with 10 amp b/alarm fuse but not sure what to turn 'on' for that

under the hood - I checked all the fuses with test light. All the small fuses ok. The medium and large fuses not sure how to test. I removed the 4 pronged starter fuse and probed the fuse slot:

a c
b d
front of car

a - not pleasant noise, low volume crispy electrical noise
b - hot
c- nothing
d- nothing

just a point of curiosity - the fuel injector above spark plug 6 there is a thin wire that runs from top of injector all the way back to fuse box under dash; no idea what this wire is about but it has been pushed around a lot manipulating the exhaust manifold, etc.

Oh forgot to mention that when trying to turn over the check engine light goes out but the security light remains illuminated.

Will check fuses and ignition failure switch.

I checked power to ignition failure switch with key in on using 12volt test light connected to engine block

Only the contact on right was hot

Black wire (left most) not hot
white (2nd from left) not hot
pink (3rd from left) not hot
green (right most) hot

There are 2 30 amp fuses marked ign sw 1 and ign sw 2. They both look ok but since no luck power to sensor I swapped with other 30 amps. Still nothing.

I checked all fuses again. Only one that can not make hot is under dash labeled b/alarm.

12 v test light connected to positive

Black is hot.

Silly ignition fail sensor is $140 from dealer. It better be the one ;)

Thanks for the help.

Yep. At $140 for sensor have to test.

And yes pink to ground startes up.

Thanks!

I meant pink to green. I think auto fill got me.

Part is on order and hopefully that will be the end of it.

When I started with jumper I did get some exhaust coming up between rear spark plug area and firewall. There is also an exhaust gas valve back there.
I used a little (very little) red RTV when putting the manifold gasket and EGR valve gaskets back on - did I goof using that stuff?

Ok part 27370 3800 ignition fail sensor arrived today. I installed it and started up but was running very rough. The code reader indicated ignition coil failure and throttle valve sensor.

While car was running I pulled back the spark plug wire (connecting spark plug 1 and the coil on top of spark plug 4) and there was no sparking. I tried same with other wires and coils and there was sparking. I rotated the coils just to see if coil was bad and once again when pulled back the wire connecting to 1 there was no sparking. I changed spark plug 4 and tried again. Once again no sparking. I checked all the fuses and no bad fuses. I checked the wire harness to coil 4 and it responded the same as coil 6 - left most was hot with 12v light tester.

I checked the throttle valve sensor and it did not feel bound up - I did not hook it up to any diagnostic equipment as thought the ignition fialure probably caused the the throttle code. I hope I put it back correctly.

Any idea what is is causing the 1/4 mis fire?

Still having issue with the ignition failure sensor

After replacing sensor did start but ran very rough. Coil 1- 4 Was Not firing and got very hot to touch.

I juggled the coils around to verify ok but when to start no juice to harness bundle.

I disconnected the wiring to ignition failure sensor and jumpered pink and green and harness to coils went hot. I tried to start with jumper and blew fuse number 8 under hood- 20 amp ignition coil fuse. Replaced fuse and tried again - same result of blown fuse.