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2004 Kia Amanti will not turn over since replacing plugs and wires.

Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 KIA AMANTI
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
I replaced the spark plugs, wires, vacuum tubes. Labor aside, most of job was ok except: 1) The spark plug boot on plug in top left (number 1) broke off and it was a bit of disaster getting the rest of wire boot out piece by piece with needle nose pliers but the plug came out normally 2) the vacuum hose line splitter broke when removing vacuum line E so i replaced with a generic 'f' configuration. Other than destroying my knuckles everything else went ok.

Now the engine will not start. I do not hear any hissing so not a vacuum leak. When I turn the key I get cranking action (rrrrrrrr noise) but no turn over. I pulled back the ignition wires to 2-4-6 to look for some sparking or clicking (as you will recall 2-4-6 are easy to look at and 1-3-5 are buried under manifold) and none of them were sparking or clicking when trying to start.

I checked all the fuses in cabin under steering wheel.

Any ideas? Did I forget a connection - had to tear apart 1/2 the engine to get a plugs 1, 3, 5
Oxygen Sensor? Crank Shaft sensor? Mass Air Flow Sensor?

According to what have found online

firewall
1 3 5
2 4 6 (these have ignition coils)
front

wires connect 1-4, 3-6, 5-2

https://www.google.com/search?q=kia+amanti+2004+spark+plug+wiring&newwindow=1&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=947&tbm=isch&imgil=Oe2OCDpiaQ3liM%253A%253B1-X0zlvtn-jmLM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.justanswer.com%25252Fkia%25252F53ki5-kia-amanti-firing-order-wire-order.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Oe2OCDpiaQ3liM%253A%252C1-X0zlvtn-jmLM%252C_&usg=__tV-yvdNXjhkMHLeV1w4EkNeYZEQ%3D&ved=0CEoQyjc&ei=gx2QVe_WDYHloATH0YP4BA#imgrc=ey4h8OW5XyfhQM%3A&usg=__tV-yvdNXjhkMHLeV1w4EkNeYZEQ%3D
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Monday, June 29th, 2015 AT 10:09 PM

40 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2015 AT 2:11 AM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
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  • 37 POSTS
So what to do if no spark?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2015 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Move on and finish the rest of the testing.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2015 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
I replaced many of the vacuum lines with a generic line from auto store. After taking a closer look at the ones I removed I can see some have a much smaller inner diameter than the replacement hose. Also one of the original lines had an orifice or some type of restrictor in it. That said I do not hear any hissing, whistling or other noise from the hoses.

Could the larger diameter on the hoses be part of the problem?
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2015 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
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I guess you're just not reading what I am typing.
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2015 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
No, I was just wondering if the vacuum lines posed an issue
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2015 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
No spark. No power to coils.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 2:35 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
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  • 37 POSTS
Injectors ok. Fuel ok.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
I noticed that the security light remains illuminated when I try turning from 'on' to 'start'. Could the security system be hung up and cause the crank no start?
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
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What is the fuel pressure?

How did you test the injector signal?
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 2:57 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Pressure - do not recall, my neighbor helped me with it as he had guage.

Injectors - used noid light
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 3:00 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
See if your coil has power supply with the key on.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
I tried using circuit tester light set
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
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Here is a diagram of the connector. Test for power and ground at the appropriate wires.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/111965067.jpg.gif
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Will do. I also noticed that the ignition coil condenser wire was damaged - 50% of wire strands broken. I completed the break, stripped back insulation and put on a wire nut for repairs.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
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That's just a radio noise suppressor. It plays not part in the operation of the engine.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
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  • 37 POSTS
Earlier I checked for power to the harness using a 12volt light tester with key on and did not get anything. Did not test ground. Will do again.

What us easier way to test ground?
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
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You can use a test light and connect the wire to bat positive or use an ohmmeter between that wire and battery negative.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:30 PM
Tiny
JAY_IN_SF
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Same as before - no power coming out of harness. Ground checked out with first methid
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
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Have you tested all your fuses inside and outside the car with a test light and the key on? If not, do that next.
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 4:37 PM

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