ABS C1185 trouble code

Both the ABS (yellow) and brake (red) lights come on. Rear brakes were cleaned by using a solvent, not sure what it was. Then they were rinsed with water and air dried. This was all done with a high pressure hose. Then the rear brakes were adjusted. Front pads were replaced after one mile of driving, the lights turned on and the van was returned to the repair shop. Everything was rechecked and the tech was not sure about what was happening. Advised me to drive van for a few days to break in the pads. The light went back on, I returned back to the repair shop and he ran a scan and it showed the above code(C1185). He again was unsure, so he replaced pads again. The light continues to come on and off. So I took the van to the dealer where I was told that I needed to replace the ECU which I mentioned in the prior message. The van currently has 36,000 and this was the first set of replacement pad and rear adjust done. Do you have any advise?

The problem started approximately four weeks ago. Both the ABS and the brake light come on immediately when the vehicle is warm. Sometimes they will not come on at all when the vehicle is cold. I brought to a Ford Dealer and they hooked up their computer and diagnosed that the ECU and HCU need replacement. At first I tried cleaning the rear brakes and adjusting them. No luck. I did a visual inspection on the ABS sensors and they appeared in good shape. I am stumped!

Sorry I did not reply right away. (Work issues) I drove the van as you suggested (slowly accelerating to twenty five mph and hard acceleration to twenty five mph or more). The lights did not come on. However, my wife drove the van in the rain and went through a few water puddles and the lights came on. So the acceleration test did not cause the lights to come on but going through water puddles did. So now, the lights come on: 1. If the car has been driven a long time. Restarted and driven again without a chance to cool down. 2. Driven through some water puddles. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, my name is Jeff from Charlotte, NC (Nascar capital) and I am a first time user. I just happened to cross this thread and joined so that I could give you my two cents. I have a 2003 Windstar SE Sport with the same exact problem. I have been trying to figure this out for quite a while now. I have not been able to figure out if it is heat or speed that triggers the lights to illuminate. It is always both yellow (ABS) and red (e-brake) lights. The problem is sort of intermittent. I have changed the front pads and inspected all the sensors visually and wiped the sensors clean with a mild detergent. A co-worker and I went to the dealership together and bought the same vans (mine green, his silver). He has not had this problem. I have already replaced the alternator and his is fine. Mine has less mileage and stays in the garage. His stays outside and is neglected, yet, he has had no service repairs since the purchase. I believe the vehicles were assembled in Canada. The bottom line is we all share the same problem. I am sure there are many many more out there too. We need to figure out what is causing these lights to illuminate. Lets all stick with this thread until we resolve this issue. My brakes are good, new pads and brake lines bled. The master cylinder fluid level is full. There are no leaks anywhere. Ah, just thought of something. Does any ones brake pedal make a creaking (scrunching) noise when depressed? Mine does and it has nothing to do with the pedal forward adjustment. Does anybody else's brake pedal make scrunchy noises when pumped? Maybe it is a clue. Lets keep thinking and updating. It is 4:30 am and I need some sleep. I shall check back later on. Good night.

Jeff

My name is Dave, I live in New York. I have not had the opportunity to replace my front brakes yet but they do need it. I will try what is suggested and remove the two wire connection on the side of the reservoir and I will get back to you. Everyone, keep this forum updated if anybody has any luck. The dealer makes it sound like there is no choice but to replace the ECU and the HCU. I have another question for anybody who might know, will this cause the vehicle to fail a New York's Inspection? A guy I know who works for Jiffy Lube says it will not fail because of the lights. True or not?

Hi, This in Jeff again. This morning I did as Steve suggested and disconnected the two wire switch mounted on the brake master cylinder forward of the reservoir. Had to remove part of the air filter assembly to get my fat forearm in there to disconnect the switch. Any how, the switch is disconnected. Took the van for a few mile ride with heavy acceleration and braking. Came home and got coffee and cooled van in garage. Went back out and drove five to six more miles using same driving conditions. So far I can report that the lights have not come back on since I disconnected the switch. I am not excited. I will do some highway driving this afternoon and report back. Steve, is this connection related to the low fluid level indicator in the reservoir or something? I have a brake squeal in the front passenger side that can be heard at low speeds. I knew I should have replaced original with ceramic pads. I will check back later. Have a great day. By the way: Conditions: Hot ninety plus degrees, hazy and humid.

Steve,

I drove about thirty more miles today both on interstate and local. I reached speeds of more than seventy five mph. The ABS and e-brake lights never came on. Also, as you said, the cruise control no longer works. When the engine is not running and the key is turned to ignition, the lights come on and go back off. When the engine is cranked, the lights come on and go back off. I understand that as long as the ABS light is not lit when driving, it is functioning properly. Is this true? Is there something that needs to be replaced? Do you have any ideas what is causing this problem? Do you want me to leave the connector separated or put it back together? What do you suggest that I try next? Please advise. Thanks

Jeff

Steve,

Still driving with the switch in front of the reservoir disconnected. No cruise control-no ABS or e-brake lights. Have driven at least one hundred miles over the weekend. Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

Dave, If you or Frenchbull disconnected the switch on side of the reservoir, please report back with an update. We all would like to resolve this this issue.

One more thing, look at the switches below and side of the resevoir and check for wetness. Report if the wires are wet from a brake fluid leak.

Jeff

Steve,
I was driving with the brake reservoir switch unplugged, but I still have the same problem (the ABS/brake lights still came on after a few minutes of driving).
DC

I have a 2003 Ford Windstar Sport, same problem, ABS and brake light comes on when hot. I took it to the dealer and for $1,000.00 they will replace the ABS module. Not going there yet. Is the module a easy to replace with one from a scrap yard? Van drives fine but light bothers my wife.

Cheers

All,

It is hard for me to believe with all the Windstars out there with ABS and e-brake lights illuminated on the dash panel that Ford has not issued a TS bulletin or recall to repair this problem. This does not seem like an isolated incident, it is more like an epidemic. Evidently, some people are paying to have this problem corrected and charging big bucks. Is there not an honest mechanic out there that is familiar with this problem that will just tell us what the problem is and how to correct it without having to do all this experimentation? Is the fix for this some kind of big Ford secret? This seems like a conspiracy. We can put men on the moon, a craft on Mars and perform brain surgery but we cannot figure out how to correct an ABS light issue. Sorry for all the junk talk, but I am frustrated over this. Steve, do you think the people who have both ABS and e-brake lights illuminated have two different issues or do you think it is all related to one thing? I hope someone reads this and can help.

Hi there!

My name is Roman and I live in Orleans, Ontario.
By the way, all Windstars were built in Oakville Ontario, Canada.

I have 2002 Windstar, 125,000 km on it and same problem as the rest of you.
After driving in hot conditions, ABS and brake light comes on. My dealer suggested to replace ABS module and HCU. I am not ready to pay $1,300.00 as I believe that it is not ABS module problem.
The switch that Jeff suggested is known to cause issues with ABS light, it is pressure switch for cruise control unit. It disengages cruise control if you hit the brake pedal.

I will get "C" codes read and will post results here.

Cheers,

Roman

Steve,

What is the name of the replacement switch you would like me to replace so that I can shop for one on Saturday? I believe you were talking about the one that I disconnected under the brake fluid reservoir. Please advise.

PS: By the way, I know you said that you were from MN, are you located near where the bridge collapsed in Mineapolis? That was really tragic.

Jeff

I too have the brake light problem. I also have the engine light that stays on. The codes say I need a new O2 sensor. What that has to do with my brakes, I have no idea. I do appreciate any and all help with both of these things. Where is the O2 sensor? The guy at AutoZone said it could be before or after the catalytic converter.

Hi, just new to this board. I have a 1999 Windstar with traction control. My ABS and "trac off" lights come on intermittently, usually when it is hot out. I had my codes read, and there were a lot! C1185 to start with, and my mechanic said the remainder were probably caused by the C1185.

Hope this information helps everyone get to the bottom of this annoyance.

Terry in Ottawa

Steve,

No, the red brake light does not come on.

My total list of codes is: C1185, C1198, C1194, C1254, C1246, C1250, C1242, C1214, C1210, C1404 and U1262(SCP data related).

Terry

I tried removing the plug on the side of the master cylinder and the lights stayed on. I then tried removing the plug on the front of the master cylinder and got the same results. I then removed both at the same time and got the same results. What next?

My van is a 2003 Ford Windstar SE just like the others and the dealer did not tell me the codes only that the computer indicates that the ECU and HCU need to be replaced at a cost of $1,010.00.

Hey folks,

I have a 2001 Ford Windstar 3.8 L Sport with 95,355 km (about 57,000 miles) on it. About a week ago the red brake and ABS warning lights came on while driving the vehicle (weather was hot 95 degrees F and humid outside). The warning lights on the instrument cluster can be turned off by turning off the ignition and then restarting the engine. The lights (ABS and brake warning) may or may not come on again while driving, since the problem seems to be intermittent. Code Reader (OBD II) retrieves no codes from the PCM.

With the two lights out. I slowly accelerate to twenty five mph. Lights did not come on. I repeated from a stop accelerated hard to twenty five mph and still the lights did not come on.

I have at the moment disconnected the the speed control deactivation switch (disconnected the two wire switch mounted on the brake master cylinder forward of the reservoir). I took the vehicle for a test drive and no warning lights on so far. Again the code reader (OBD II) retrieved no codes from the PCM with speed control deactivation switch still disconnected.

The switch mentioned above will remain disconnected and the vehicle will be driven for the next couple of days in this mode. Will keep you posted.

RAK :)