Engine wont turn over?

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Caution: When performing service on or near the SIR components or the SIR wiring, the SIR system must be disabled. Failure to observe the correct procedure could cause deployment of the SIR components, personal injury, or unnecessary SIR system repairs.
Disable the SIR system. Lower the hush and knee bolster.
Remove the steering column trim covers.
With the key installed, turn the key to the RUN position.

Install an allen wrench into the hole on top of the lock cylinder housing. Push down on the allen wrench to release the tab on the lock cylinder inside the lock cylinder housing.

Slide the lock cylinder out of the lock cylinder housing.

Installation Procedure

Install the key into the lock cylinder. Important: The gears between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing must be in the correct position. Failure to do so will cause a misalignment of the gears in the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing, which may result in a NO START or BATTERY DRAIN.
Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the start position - allowing it to spring return into the RUN position.

Align the lock cylinder and install into the lock cylinder housing.
Install the steering column trim covers.
Install the hush and knee bolster.
Enable the SIR system. Connect the negative battery cable.

Meaning it won't turn over or run? Check fuses in underhood fuse box, there are 3all say ign and should be marked in top of fuse box. Then check relay to see if pcm is sending signal to relay. Check ignition switch as well. See if power is going to starter, if it haas good power hit body of starter with hammer, if it starts the starter is bad.

Did you test any of the circuits at the relay? With the clutch depressed and the key turned to crank, there should be two hot terminals. Did you check the crank fuse and circuit? The signal from the crank fuse tells the computer to ground the coil side of the relay. That's the way I understand it. Without voltage and ground, the relay won't energize.

With the relay unplugged, have a helper turn the key to crank, use a testlite, where the relay plugs in, how many terminals are hot?

Usually with a standard relay, the 30 terminal is voltage for the load side of the relay, the 87 terminal carries voltage to the starter. The 85 and 86 terminals are B+ and ground for the control, coil, side of the relay. Any testing you do, make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and the e-brake is set.

I hope that testing doesn't effect the theft system?

What I need you to do is have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for 12 volts to the smaller wire on the starter.

I am assuming the starter isn't working.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

Have you checked to see if there is power to the S terminal on the starter when the key is in the start position?

Also, is it the starter that isn't working or is the engine turning and not starting?

Let me know.
Joe

Check battery for condition including load test. Just because it's new doesn't make it any good. Diehards are good for doing this. Also check starter draw may be a bad starter. When done and turning over hope your fuelpump is still good. Fuel is their lubricant

If you are at the end of your wits, you need more wits! Ahahahahaha. Anyway, a good suspect is a failing neutral safety switch/range sensor. Next time this happens, shift to neutral and see if the engine cranks. If that does not help, find the starter relay in the under-hood fuse box, and feel if it is clicking when a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank".

Get the battery load tested- double check connections make sure its clean and tight- Do this at the starter solenoid find the purple wire have helper put key to start position and look for power -then come back and I'll give you the starter EWD.