2002 Isuzu Axiom Electrical

Tiny
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  • 2002 ISUZU AXIOM
  • 130,000 MILES
I have a 2002 Isuzu Axiom. I'm having 2 problems and I'm not sure if they are related. 1. My door locks for every door except the drivers door will not lock or unlock using the remote or the locking switch on the door panel. I think this my be a module problem can you confirm this also is the module located under the window buttons on the door panel and would a faulty one make the drivers side window hesitate when going up to the closed position. 2. What would cause my windshield wipers not return to the park position?
Tuesday, July 23rd, 2013 AT 9:29 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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The driver door lock actuator or its wiring is bad and you would need to perform tests to find out.

Door glass hesistating while moving up can be due to bad run channels which would cause the glass to move unevenly due to excessive force required.

Wipers not returning to park is a fault with the wiper intermittent relay.
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Wednesday, July 24th, 2013 AT 7:58 AM
Tiny
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Thank you KHLow2008 for that great response. Please excuse me for the lack of knowledge in the electrical field because I didn't give enough information. Is the driver door lock actuator something that can just be replaced since I don';t have a clue on how to test it. Also where exactly is it located and (maybe ) what does it look like? Is it the box in the door rest that all of the buttons are connected to. Ie windows, door lock buttons. I should have included that the drivers side window will stop going up if the front passenger window is activated and will not start until the passenger switch is released. Lastly where would the wiper intermittent relay be located? Would it be in the fuse box in the engine compartment? Thanks in advance for all of your help. By the way you would happen to know where online I could find a car repair / service manual for this vehicle(preferably free)
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Wednesday, July 24th, 2013 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Door lock actuator can be replaced and is attached to door latch in side door panel.

Relay is under right side of dash.

The window problem could be due to a poor ground circuit.
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Wednesday, July 24th, 2013 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
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Once again KHLow2008 Thank you. Hopefully this will be the last question. How, where and with what tools do I check the ground circuit for the window?
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Thursday, July 25th, 2013 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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If you have any questions or anything that is not clear about, please feel free to ask and do not worry about asking too many questions. We are here to help and would be disappointed if we leave you hanging without getting the problem resolved.

For checking ground circuit, usually an ohmmeter would be sufficient provided you know what you are doing. It is not easy to explain the process but I will try and see if you understand.

Unplug the connections for the window circuit and test the ohms for the ground wire to body and if resistance is more than 1 ohms, the ground circuit could be poor and cleaning and retightening the bolt holding the wire might help.

Anyway I am not sure about the exact problem of the power window and the symptom you mentioned were rather briel so the answer about the ground circuit was only a wild shot.

If you can explain the exacty symptoms, I might be able to understand the problem better and show you the correct way to go about.
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Thursday, July 25th, 2013 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
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KHLow2008 could you please advise me on what type of repair manual I should be looking for this vehicle. Should it be a Haynes, chiltons or should I try to purchase an Isuzu service manual. I ask because I need a visual to know what I'm looking at and for. The information that you have given me is great but since I don't have you here to hold my hand(lol) I need to get some type of visual aid. The problem with the drivers side window only is as follows.1. Window goes up and down fully but not in one full motion. It will move about 3/4 of the way and then stop. After releasing the button and then repressing the button it will go the rest of the way up or down. 2. If I attempt to open or closed another window at the same time, the drivers window will stop operating until the other windows button is released. Note: The other three windows will all operate individually and simultaneously with each other without any hesitation or pause. Also I didn't see the wiper intermittent relay correct me if I'm wrong but it's a small 1X1 square box. And is it way up under the dash which is maybe why I didn't see it? Oh and replacing the drivers side door lock actuator would make all the other door locks operate either by key or remote correct? Whew! Once again THANK YOU very much for your help
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Sunday, July 28th, 2013 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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The wiper intermittent control is via the alarm and relay control module.

For the power window, I believe the motor is weak and failing causing the problem.

I have attached wiring diagrams for you to chek the circuit.

As to the manuals, I am sorry I am not able to provide any suggetions as I do not use any of them except Ondemand. I don't think you can get much from them for the problems you are facing.
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Monday, July 29th, 2013 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Sorry I missed out the diagrams.
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Monday, July 29th, 2013 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
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KHLow2008 Thanks for the diagrams. I haven't tried anything yet out of fear. I know to set the multi meter to the ohm setting of 200 I'm not sure whether to insert the end into the wiring harness plugs or into the the ends of the box that the window switches are in. I do have a question. Is there a main ground wire? The reason that I ask is because yesterday My wipers worked perfectly, the window was still the same but now when I lock the door with the remote the lights flash signaling that the doors are locked. They didn't work at first when locking the vehicle only they use to only work when unlocking the vehicle. Does this now mean that the problem is in need of a professional diagnosis? Once again thanks.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2013 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
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The schematics describes the location of the ground circuits and yes they do have a common one.

When testing for battery voltage, it should be set at 20 volts (DC). Only when testing resistance/continuity do you set at 200 ohms. You need to test at one end to the other so do it with the most easily accessible way.
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Tuesday, August 6th, 2013 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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I thought I was suppose to be testing for resistance/continuity? I'm suppose to be checking for battery voltage? And do you mean one end or the other and if so can you please specify? ( End of wiring harness, or the box that the harness connects to that all the switches are in. Sorry for being a little thick(lol).
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Thursday, August 8th, 2013 AT 4:42 AM
Tiny
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I thought that I was suppose to be testing for resistance/continuity, you mean I'm suppose to be checking for battery voltage? Do you mean test at one end or the other? And when you say end do you mean the end of wiring harness or do you mean the end of the box that houses all of the switches? Sorry for seeming kind of thick(lol)
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Thursday, August 8th, 2013 AT 4:57 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

The above link explains how to go about checking electrical circuits.
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Thursday, August 8th, 2013 AT 9:53 PM

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