Alternator problems?

Every thing is loose but there's no room to remove alt bolt.

Hello,

The lower bolt runs into the engine mount. Remove the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up from below. Here is what Im am looking at (BELOW) Please let us know.

I have a problem with lower bolt for the alternator it hitting the frame. I can’t get it out.

Hi,

More than likely you will need to unbolt the motor mount on that side and use a floor jack to lift the engine until it clears the frame.

There have been people that say they can jiggle it and work it out but I have never seen that. This is common on a lot of these similar cars and I am normally doing it on a lift so I just put a screw jack on it and lift the engine.

I tried to find a video of this but couldn't find one. Please let me know if you have questions about this. Thanks

I replaced my alternator about six months ago and after recently replacing the oxygen sensor the alternator went out. So, I replaced the alternator again about a week ago and it went out again. If I wired the oxygen sensor worng would it cause the alternator to go out or could there be something else causing the alternator to go bad?

Wiring the oxygen sensor wrong won't cause the alternator to go bad. but a high-wattage audio system, auxiliary lighting or other amp-hungry accessories such as megawatt amplifiers and a trunk full of subwoofers. if you have those, you will need high output alternator from your local auto part store to handle the voltage need. if you do not have those,check your voltage regulator look like this:

2000 Infiniti G20 125k miles when i got the car the alternator when bad, replaced it. and again 10 years and alternator goes bad, replaced it and 2 days of driving, the battery light and brake light at the dash board lighted up. checked the alternator and was not giving charge. checked wires electrical did not find nothing wrong. the battery is good a few months on it. question is why the alternator go bad the new one right after the old one, and the old one did not set and lights on.

Hi mikeesm, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation You need to test the wiring to and from the alternator for shorts and opens -see wiring diagram and also test all the fuses and the charge indicator

thanks for the diagram, ill check the wiring. but if there is a short shouldn't a fuse blow and i checked the fuses, and none are bad. Also the checked if the car would be running after disconnecting the battery cable and it died so olny two days and the (new) alternator went bad. all write bad when i double check the fuses and the wiring. I placed everything back as it should go.

Get the alternator load tested if okay recheck the wiring as shown in the pic

I load tested the alternator and it failed. Also another this I was checking the wiring the connection white and yellow/red each to ground and it was giving me almost 2volts for every wire to ground. What should the normal reading on the volt meter should be. Also double checked all fuses and there are good.
Question what reading on the meter should i be getting battery disconnected or connected both leads or one lead?

The whte wire should have battery voltage if not check fuse no.37 7.5amp in the fuse and fusible link box inear the battery, the yellow and red should read less than battery voltage bcuz irs going thru a resistor and the charge indicator bulb-also check fuse no.11 10amp in the fuse block behind dash left of steering column

If you have both wires hooked up to the battery you have 12.4 volts on the positive on the alternator. If you unhook the little white wire you only have 0.16 volts. I have checked all the fuses I can find. Also I have cleaned all the connections. please help me. thanks

Hi,

This sounds like it is normal to me. The white wire is the B+ that is coming through the fuses. Let me know what you are trying to do and we can go from there.

Here is the wiring diagram that lays this out. Thanks

I have an Infiniti G20 made in 1996, the problem is charging the battery. I have replaced the alternator but still there is a short supply. Especially when the RPM is going down, I mean when I stop the car. What else can be the problem of short electricity supply?

Insufficient charging voltage are mostly due to a faulty alternator. If replacement is a reman unit, I would not discount the possibility of it being bad as well.

If you have squeaking noise from drive belt area when engine is running, check the harmonic damper. When the damper is faulty, it would slip on the crank pulley and this would reduce the alternator turning rpm and a lower than expected charging rate.

Ensure belt tension is correct.

i had this problem originally 2 yrs ago. car started going through alternators (and of course batteries) like mad. went through a total of 4 in two months, including two that were 'official' rebuilts from infiniti that cost and arm and a leg and another leg. no one could ever find the underlying problem, although one mentioned something about the fusible link being 'worn.' nothing was done about it as far as i can tell. the 4th alt was an infiniti rebuild and it lasted just barely 2 years, having crapped out this week, just 2 weeks past its 2 year anniversary. so naturally i installed a new rebuilt, replaced the fusible link wire, checked the necessary fuses, charged the battery and....it ran about 10 miles. now the alt is out and being tested to see if it managed to get totally fried during its brief life and i'm back to wondering what in the hell is causing this problem. i have looked all over the web with no luck, except to have found two other people with the EXACT SAME PROBLEM (and whose questions have also received zero answers.)

Hi clowder, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation Check all the fuses, test all the connector/wires for looseness,corrosion,opens and shorts, ground point G101connection for the alternator

MY 1995 Infiniti G20 had loose battery cables. I tightened them and charged the battery. Now it seems the Alternator is not charging could this be a possible fuse issue?

Check fuselink box next gto battery fuseA-D

Does the 75 A Battery fuse have to be removed a special way. I went to pull it last night and was unable to.

NO but they can be hard to get out can you check with meter or test light?

I will check with a meter if I cannot get it out. I have a new alternator but want to avoid installing it if I don't have to. They dont give you much room to remove it.

Try needle nose pliers

Electrical problem
1994 Infiniti G20 Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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How to remove the alternator

Undo the battery cables. Remove the electrical connectors, 2 of them. You may have to remove the coolant bottle and upper radiator hose for more room. Locate the adjustment bolt, close to the belt. You have to loosen the nut, before loosening the bolt. Once it is loosened, remove the belt. Remove the adjustment bolt, and 2 pivot bolt on the bottom. Install is reversed.

Thanks for all the help. I will try that when I get home.

O.K

I don't think my alternator is charging properly. While the car is running, a test showed the alt putting out only 11.06 volts and steadily dropping. When the car was off, the battery was close to 12 volts. Is there anything else to consider before I take the alt out?

Repair the alternator, and re check charge rate, check all connections are clean and tight, load test battery for true indication of battery viability.

Mark (mhpautos)

Drive to one of the local parts houses like checker. they wil test it for free , they got the equiptment.

want to check it to make sure that its not blown before i purchase an alternator

whats the problem your having?

battery light was faint on dash board car wouldn't crank unless i boosted it off. purchased a battery and did the alternator test. when i unhooked the neg battery cable the car cut off. I visited an auto parts store and saw where it was possible for a fuse to be blown in the lamp circuit.Not sure what/where that is. All I know is before i had any of these problems my driver side headlight was going in and out as it pleased before it just decided to go out. plz help

you can take the alternator in for testing? chain auto stores have computer run test rigs. do it for free.

I have had a feeling my electrical had an issue for a few weeks. Alternator is putting out just over 11A. Car is idling very rough at times. Battery light and ABS lights come on when it is about to Die. Finally died on me this morning on my way into work and then wouldnt turn over. I charged my battery yesterday so its not a battery issue, as the car electrical all worked after it died. I've heard that there could be a fusible link problem?? Can anyone speak to this? Should I just replace the fusible link and all wiring running from/to battery and alternator - then replace my alternator?

Thoughts?

you said 11 amps.....did you mean volts? while running have you tested voltage at battery? should be 14+.......... 12 + or under means alternators not charging or circuit to turn it on is malfunctioning or hot wire to battery is bad or blown fuse/link. that's if alternator is good. you can also try chescking voltage at alternator output wire itself. if alternator is origanal or old i would say your symptoms indicate it's bad.

Yes I meant Volts... I'm going to check out the fusible link and wiring this weekend since its a cheap fix. Then going to install new alternator.

I don't think my alternator is charging properly. While the car is running, a test showed the alt putting out only 11.06 volts and steadily dropping. When the car was off, the battery was close to 12 volts. Is there anything else to consider before I replace the alternator?

Get a voltmeter and read the open battery voltage on the battery before you start it up, it should be 12.4 volts or higher, less recharge battery. Now, start it up and read battery voltage should be 13.5 - 15.5 volts with headlights and heater on, if not it could be the alternator not putting out or the battery is not taking the charge. Or the field generation from the computer.