Wht could be most possible cause

Tiny
MARVINEVANS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 DODGE STRATUS
  • 130 MILES
A/c? My ac compresser clutch will run for 10s and the dissengadge and then start back up for a little and then disengadge we pluged it into obd2 and the presure senser was reading 94 psi so then at the same time we pluged it into a A/c chargeing unit that sed it had between 92-98 psi so that rules out the pressere senser so what could be the problem could it be the compresser?
Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 12:45 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,910 POSTS
It's low on charge.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
MARVINEVANS
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It didnot start haveing this problem untell the ac was recarged it blows cold wen the clutch will stay engadged
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 12:50 AM
Tiny
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Why was it recharged? Was some refrigerant just added or was the system pumped into a vacuum first, then filled with a full charge? Were the plastic caps put back on the ports?
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 12:53 AM
Tiny
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It was profetionaly done befor I got the car so I am unshure
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
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The first thing I'd do is swap the AC compressor relay with a different one like it to see if the contacts are arced or burned causing an intermittent problem. Chances are pretty good that's not going to help but lets not overlook something simple.

The next thing is to bypass the pressure transducer with a jumper wire. A small paper clip or piece of wire will work but be careful with the terminals in the connector because they can be spread easily. If this problem is intermittent you have to do this test while the problem is acting up. It won't mean anything if you do it while the system is already working normally. If the problem clears up when the transducer is bypassed, either the system is low on charge, over-charged, or the transducer is defective.

The next potential cause is an intermittent contact on the thermal limiter switch. That is built into the compressor. To identify that you would have to monitor the compressor relay with a test light or voltmeter, and monitor the voltage at the compressor clutch at the same time. Both should have 12 volts at the same time. If there's 12 volts coming from the relay but 0 volts at the clutch when it it kicks out, the thermal limiter switch is defective. To replace that requires the replacement of the compressor.

The electric clutches have a rather high failure rate too but I don't think they are typically intermittent. If you find voltage at its electrical connector but the clutch still kicks out, it is defective. Those can be replaced without replacing the entire compressor.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2012 AT 1:37 AM

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