Ignition switch replacement

Hey PHILLIP505,

If you would like some help with your vehicle can you please start a new question?

It makes the site work more effectively if each persons question is separate, we should be able to give you the information you need.

Regards, Joe

Hey X1X GOSER X1X,

If you are replacing the electrical part of the ignition switch you may have to relearn the PASSLOCK system.

You may need to attach a battery charger as you will have the ignition on for a while without the engine running whilst doing the relearn.

Please see the information below on how to do that.

Regards, Joe

There is no way except to drill it out. Here are guides to help you replace the ignition lock tumbler. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response. I would get the new ignition switch from the dealer so they can code it for you please bring our VIN number. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Ignition and start switch replacement.
Removal Procedure:

Disconnect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Remove the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim panel. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Remove the ignition switch bolts.
Lower the ignition switch away from the instrument carrier.
Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder. Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release. Pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Important: The Passlockâ electrical connector cannot be removed until the lock cylinder is removed.

Depress and hold the detent on the bottom of the ignition switch in order to release the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the ignition lock cylinder with the key.

Disconnect the Passlockâ electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.

Important: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.

Perform the following procedure if the ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.
12.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.

12.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.

12.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.

12.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.

12.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.

12.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.

12.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.

12.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder cording is required. Refer to Key and Lock Cylinder Coding in General Information.

Installation Procedure
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
1.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.

1.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.

1.3. You may have to slightly depress the release button as the button passes by the 9/32-in hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.

Connect the electrical connectors.
Connect the Passlockâ electrical connector.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch.

Turn the key to the ON/RUN position. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the ignition switch. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key.

Position the ignition switch to the instrument carrier.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the ignition switch bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 10 NÂ m (89 lb in).

Install the trim plate bezel to the I/P cluster. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
Install the knee bolster bracket. Refer to Bracket Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Install the steering column filler panel. Refer to Steering Column Filler Replacement .
Connect the battery ground cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect and Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

I think the tech was not complete even if you keep the tumbler the key is what needs programming which the dealer will do when you buy the lock and key if you bring your VIN number and proof of ownership.

So you took apart the ignition switch and cleaned it and now you don't have any power to the dash lights blower motor etc?Have you checked all the fuses to see if you blew any? Here are the instructions on how to replace the ignition switch in the diagrams below.

Lets start by checking the solid red wire to the ignition switch it should have battery voltage to it at all times. So all the dash lights blower motor etc worked before you took the switch apart?Let me know if you have battery voltage to that solid red wire. You just have a bad ignition switch since you took it apart parts aren't made to be repaired these days we live in a throw away world.

Yes you should have the dash lights warning lights blower motor working etc. So did the starter work when you turned the key to the start position before you cleaned the switch?Also put the key in the start position and see if you have battery voltage at the yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch. Let me know.

Looks like the ignition switch isn't working correctly and needs to be replaced to start with. As you can see from the diagram I posted the red wire feeds the battery voltage into the switch and when you turn the switch to the start position battery voltage is sent thru the yellow wire which isn't happening. But the red wire has battery voltage so bad switch you could have more then one problem but getting a new switch is where we need to start.

Your welcome keep me posted on what you find and how it works with the new switch.

When you did the relearn procedure and did it three cycles did you make sure you waited for the security light to change status like the light was flashing and shut off or went from flashing to solid or solid to off before you did the next cycle of turning it off then trying to start it and let it sit in the position until the light changed status again before the next cycle was performed?I would also try it four cycles to see if it resets. You could have a bad pass lock sensor iam having trouble logging into are online repair data as soon as I can I will get you more info.