Engine overheating?

First, make sure they are coming on at what you would consider a proper time, not much past the half way mark on the gauge. If they are, do they sound like they are spinning fast enough or are they running slow?

If that all checks out, the system is flushed, the thermostat is new. We may need to consider a head gasket, timing issue.

As I am in Australia, my pricing will not help, you should be able to get a few quotes, this should give you a fair idea.

The problem could be the water pump housing. This housing (the water pump is bolted into it) goes from the left side of the engine block to right side of the block. It has three or four gaskets which seal the water passages into the cylinde block. These gaskets leak from time to time and leave water streaks on the block and heads (driver's side just above where the transmission and engine bolt together). Check both sides for these streaks--check the whole block surface on that side. If streaks are present, replace the water pump housing gaskets. (Not a easy job, but can be done if engine is cold, you have plenty--I said plenty-- of time and patience.

When these gaskets leak you won't see water in the driveway until they get very bad.

Looked and looked for a picture, but could not find one.

[quote="freemba"]The problem could be the water pump housing. This housing (the water pump is bolted into it) goes from the left side of the engine block to right side of the block. It has three or four gaskets which seal the water passages into the cylinde block. These gaskets leak from time to time and leave water streaks on the block and heads (driver's side just above where the transmission and engine bolt together). Check both sides for these streaks--check the whole block surface on that side. If streaks are present, replace the water pump housing gaskets. (Not a easy job, but can be done if engine is cold, you have plenty--I said plenty-- of time and patience.

When these gaskets leak you won't see water in the driveway until they get very bad.

Found a picture, hope it helps.
Www. Partstrain. Com/./OLDSMOBILE/AURORA

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.

Have the shop to pressure test the cooling system. They can find leave the pressure on this system for a long as necessary to find the leak. Also, internal combustion leaks can be verified by using an exhaust analyzer to "sniff" combustion gases that may be present in the cooling system (i.E, radiator). Finally, when coolant leaks it usually leaves streaks. Although the engine block and heads may be dry they should look for these streaks (especially where the water pump passage(s) bolt to the engine).

Hi:
was the engine block flushed or only the radiator. Why were the pellets used? Was there a leak? Was the heater core flushed? Was it consuming coolant? Any white smoke from the exhaust?

Let me know.

Joe

Sorry to hear about your mother. My mother is on the loosing end of a battle with cancer.

I too have an Aurora (2001), and I'm intimately familiar with these vehicles.

Unfortunately, it sounds as if you have more than one problem going on here. Your brakes won't have anything to do with your heater blowing cold air, which is actually part of your cooling system. Nor will that have anything to do with your clicker working, or vice versa.

As far as your cooling system, yours is what we call a reverse flow cooing system. I won't bore you with the details, but what's usually happening when your heater stops blowing hot air is there's air getting into your cooling system. Because your system is a reverse flow, the heater core is the highest point in the system and all of the air gets trapped inside. This stops your coolant from flowing effectively. (Which is how you get your heat)

And unfortunately, the usual suspect is a blown head gasket.

The easiest and quickest way to test this is to open the cap on your surge tank. Look inside while you have someone rev the motor to at least 1500 rpm. If you see bubbles, it's a blown head gasket.

If you don't see bubbles, then it's probably in a control circuit, which isn't as expensive, but almost as hard to diagnose.

As far as your clicker, inside the remote is a circuit board. Sometimes the contacts get broken or become corroded. You'll have to take it to a professional to either repair or replace.

If the radiator is not clogged and cooling fan is working could be airlock try bleeding it don't work, get it block and pressure tested.

Its time to get it block and pressure tested to rule out a blown headgasket, cracked head or block. Do you see any white smoke coming out of the exhaust tail?