There is no starter operation the engine is not cranking over?

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? If it's a manual, the flywheel is pretty tough and hard to imagine it cracked around the center. I'd more likely expect to find the bolts sheared off, and even that would not be common.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

Sounds like it may be a faulty starter motor if you properly boosted the battery. I would check the voltage of the battery first to ensure it is over twelve volts and does not drop below 9.6 volts while a second helper tries to start the vehicle.
Once the battery checks out you can look at the starter motor. The larger main cable at the starter should have battery voltage. The one wire connector (signal) should have battery voltage while the ignition is in the crank position.
It is also good practice to inspect the ground cables as a loose ground can cause a no start condition.

So you have a crank no start?Or a no crank no start?A reduced performance light can disable a restart depending on the issue. Your best bet is to get a code reader and see what codes you have. You have two choices get it towed to a shop and have them fix it. Or buy tools and try to fix it yourself. Getting the exact code numbers is your first step. You can do the basics check for spark actual fuel pressure and check injector pluse but if the computer is shutting it down or bad sensor your not going to know. Thats why I would see what codes it has first its best to have a scan tool that reads live engine data for diagnose. On amazon they have them for 50 something dollars.

The starter overunning clutch is slipping-if its engaging the engine but not turning it over.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Hi there,

you will have to check for power at the starter main terminal & the solenoid when on crank, if ok then starter is faulty. If no power at solenoid check starter relay.
Mark (mhpautos)

Have you had alternator tested?

So if you pull the alarm fuse does the battery still go dead?I have seen batterys test good and still not hold a charge. We need to do a parastic draw test to see where the draw is or even if you have excessive draw.

So right now the starter is inop?You didnt reverse jump start it did you?Also the battery is fully charged and the battery cables are clean and tight?Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?You will need it. Also do the dash lightd etc come on when you turn the key on like they normally would?

If the starter spins the engine very slowly, even with a new battery, there is very little in the circuit that can cause trouble. You'll need a cheap digital voltmeter and a helper to turn the ignition switch.

Start by measuring the voltage between the two battery posts while your helper cranks the engine. The industry standard is it must remain above at least 9.6 volts, but realistically, you should have 10 - 11 volts with a new battery. If it is too low, either the battery is run down or the starter is drawing too much current. Connect a large battery charger with an ammeter. First charge the battery for half an hour at te lowest rate, then crank the engine with the charger still connected and turned on. If it cranks normally, we need to test the charging system. If it still cranks too slowly, feel one of the large battery cables. If it is hot, or if the ammeter on the charger goes real high, the starter is drawing excessive current. Either the starter is partially shorted or, less likely, there is internal engine damage.

If the voltage at the battery posts, (not the cable clamps), remains fairly high, say around 11 volts or higher, and it still cranks too slowly, we have to hunt for a connection problem. That is done by moving the voltmeter probes to different places in the circuit.

Holler back when you've made these checks.

Caradiodoc