Aftermarket radio

Tiny
PACKERS27
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 GMC YUKON
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
This vehicle is the XL 1500 model. Most diagrams show a couple of yellow wires but my harness does not have yellow wires but it has a few orange wires. I figured I would go ahead and throw that out there. Like a dummy, I cut the plug off from the harness and was going to wire a new harness on for my aftermarket double din radio. This radio comes with a rear view camera so there is a parking sensor wire. To make a long story short I am having a lot of problems. The factory harness has about thirty wires. The aftermarket radio has about twelve. Now I am going to have to try to put the harness back on the wires. I feel like if I do this and buy an adapter that goes from my original to the new then I do not think it is going to work because the original harness is not going to support the parking sensor wire. Is this correct? I do not know much about this. I figured I would go ahead and mention that this system does have a factory amp but I do not believe it is the Bose system. What my plans were was to leave the factory amp in there and let it run the original speakers but I was going to hook up my own amp and run a sub-woofer of mine in the back. Another thing is that the factory harness has a vehicle speed sensor wire so my speedometer total mileage and cruise control is not currently working. Are there certain aftermarket radios that has to support the VSS wire or will it work on any aftermarket radio? With all of this said, what is your advice?
Sunday, August 27th, 2017 AT 2:51 PM

36 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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I am not sure what you are asking here what do you need help with?

Let me know

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 9:05 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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Will a double din aftermarket radio work in this vehicle?

What's the easiest way to wire the factory plug back on without screwing it up?

What kind of adapter do I need?

Where do I wire the parking sensor wire?

The radio is one of those cheap Chinese radios. 1078B or whatever
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes a double din radio should work. There should be a stereo wiring adapter that the company recommends like this one from Amazon for $14.00

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGM5FXZ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06WGM5FXZ&linkId=189ecce6a461d2d72e286f5f7d0382a9

It looks like the wire to connect to the VSS is the dark green and white. Here is a wiring diagram for your car so you can do the job.

Sorry about the confusion earlier.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken
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+5
Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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  • 192 POSTS
Here's the thing. I don't have 2 color wires, besides the black with white's stripe ones. When you say dark green and white, all of my wires are solid color. Some wires are one size in diameter but there's others that are smaller. What's the difference in them?
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Can you take a picture so I can see what you are talking about?
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 9:26 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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I don't even know what the harness is on the left. Like I said, I cut the plug when I shouldn't have
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 11:21 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Use the wiring diagrams to find and reconnect the wires to see what happens.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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I did that today and I'm not getting power
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Check you recheck the fuses maybe you popped one.
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Friday, September 1st, 2017 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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Ok Will Do
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Friday, September 1st, 2017 AT 12:19 PM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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I bought a decent multimeter and quickly found the battery and accessory wire. I've got power to the HU.I should be able to scope out the negatives and positives of the speakers. Here's the big question. I want to use my factory Amp to power the existing door speakers. Will that work or will I have to bypass the Amp? Im also going to run my aftermarket amp and sub in the cargo area and may even replace the factory 8in sub and put it on the aftermarket amp. So what about the factory Amp?
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Tuesday, September 5th, 2017 AT 6:14 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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You can just remove it and run your aftermarket amp and wire it accordingly.
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Tuesday, September 5th, 2017 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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You mean remove the factory amp completely and use my amp for all of the speakers? If I do that then I'll have to run speaker wires from every one, right? Doesn't it more more sense to just use the amp I already have, for that?
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Tuesday, September 5th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Ya it would be easier to use the existing amp I thought you wanted to use the one you bought
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
  • MEMBER
  • 192 POSTS
No. I just want to use my equipment to power a 12 inch aftermarket sub and stay in the left lane a 8-inch replacement sub that is going in the rear cargo area. Some people talk about having to bypass the factory amp. I just want your confirmation that I don't have to do that to use it solely for powering the existing door speakers
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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  • 192 POSTS
Ignore the 'stay in the left lane". My GPS picked up the sound.
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Lol cool, the only thing that maybe an issue is that the aftermarket amp may pull more amperage than the stock unit so you may need to run a new larger gauge power wire to the amp from a good power source.
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Thursday, September 7th, 2017 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
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Ok thank you
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Thursday, September 7th, 2017 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
PACKERS27
  • MEMBER
  • 192 POSTS
  • 2001 GMC YUKON
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
Installing aftermarket HU and going to let the factory amp continue to power the door speakers. However, after powering HU and factory Amp, the only sound that comes out of the speakers is a whining noise. My understanding is that it's called an alternator whine. The sounds fluctuated with the accelerator.

My questions are, other than a bad ground, what could cause this whine. MOST IMPORTANTLY, shouldn't there still be some sort of music coming out, other than the whining? THOUGHTS?
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Wednesday, September 13th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,572 POSTS
Sounds like you have a couple issues. Whine is 50% battery power issue and 50% antenna lead issue. To check where yours is coming from make sure the radio case has a good ground. Then take a wire attached to ground and just touch the center connector for the antenna. Whine goes away? = Antenna cable shielding is junk.
To see if it's alternator is simple, connect a wire directly from the battery to the power feed on the unit. If the whine goes away or is greatly reduced it's from the alternator. You can get filters for the power feed at most stereo/electronics shops to eliminate it.

You might have sound unless the alternator feedback is killing the signal.
Do you hear anything if you turn the key to on but no engine running?
If not you have some mixed up wiring or the new head unit blew the inputs in the factory amp with a high signal levels.

What make/model of head unit? I'll see if I can find it's wiring diagram online and what you need to connect to the truck.
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Wednesday, September 13th, 2017 AT 8:18 PM

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