Very rough idle and stalling only when it is cold?

Yes codes are seasonal as well. Late spring all through summer it starts and runs fine. As long as I have my foot on the gas pedal it drives fine. Once I let off and come to a stop / idle it will stall. No I have not had a smoke test performed on it. Is that something I could do or is there another way for me to test it myself? It is hard to find a leak when it is idling because it will stall out unless given gas.

Thanks I will call around and see what the test would cost me.

Wow that much huh? I will let you know what I find. I amy just spend that money and just replace the PCV valve and hose and see if that does the trick.

I just got my 2001 Ford Escape XLT (V6) about a week ago. I'm having the same problems. Before this car, I had a 2002 Ford Escape XLT (V6) which I gave to my daughter. From my experience and what my mechanic has told me, it sounds like possible issues spark plug boots, spark plugs, and possibly vacuum leak(s).

I've done some research on the web and found a few othter discussion threads which talk about the same thing. The following is what I think best sums up what my mechanic explained to me. I've yet to try this, but will as soon as I get the time.

Check for vacuum leak. Also if it has over 80,000 miles on the odometer replace the spark plugs and plug wires.
I just had my 04 Escape checked out at a mechanic and the computer said it was the egr valve. This started happening after I ran out of gas. The mechanic thinks that may have been part of the problem cause some junk may have made it past the fuel filter and gunked up the egr valve.

- I would first check for vacuum leaks, then I would test or replace the IAC (idle air control), then if all checks out, do a compression test. All cylinders will have to be within 10 per cent of each other to have a steady idle. Note that the upper plastic intake will have to be removed to test the back bank.

This guy is RIGHT it is a VACCUME LEAK! CHECK this out!
Im not a mechanic but I have had the same problems with my 2001 Ford Escape. I changed the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF sensor), Idle Air Control valve (IAC Valve), Positive Crankcase Ventalation Tube (PCV Tube) and nothing worked. You do need to check your PCV tube to see if it has collapsed if so change it $26 at Ford house. What finally fixed my car was when I changed out the upper and lower intake gaskets $9 at Auto Zone. 4 of my upper gaskets and 2 of my lower gaskets were leaking. If you do decide to change the gaskets out, replace your PCV valve $6 easy to get to once you remove the intake to get to the lower gaskets. Change your spark plugs out with factory Motorcraft plugs $4 a piece. I did all this and my Ford Escape runs like a charm. Hope this helps you out. If you do this yourself make sure ALL VACCUME HOSES are put back on.
Vacuum leaks can be hard to find, I use WD40 instead of a smoker, whenever idle changes when spraying around hoses/motor, I have found my leak. Works everytime!

Hey, before you tear everything apart, if you don't have any warning lights on, disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for about 5 minutes. Then reconnect it. This resets the computer. Mine ran smooth as silk after that. (2001 V6 Escape).

Hi, I went through the same experience with my 2001 Ford Escape V6 3.0 XLS.
I resolved, at least temporarily, with Techron additives. Details Below.

In November a cold front came in and the Escape had issues in the morning, coughing sickly and stalling until she warmed up. I had to apply gas to prevent her from stalling until she warmed up. Engine light came on and multiple codes came up all indicating that it was running lean. Every morning it did this to some extent until I took action.
Codes were: P1131, P0156, P0136, P0174, P0171, P1151

I bought a bottle of the Techron Concentrate Plus ( 20 oz). When tank was about 1/8 full ( near empty), I put in full bottle and filled up with 93 Octane. Saw no difference until about most of the tank of gas was gone and then noticed improvement.
Note: I live in the southeast, so temps had raised and it was hard to determine how much improvement had been made.
Note2: I have been told that the Techron will eat at your lines and you should NOT use this regularly.
Since fill up with Techron, all gas used is 93 Octane. Please note I have increased gas mileage with the 93 octane. Not much a little more than a mile a gallon. This offsets about 1/2 the increased cost for the better gas.
I bought Techron Fuel Injector cleaner ( 12 oz) and watched the 10 day weather forecast. When I saw major cold weather coming, I put in the 12 oz of Techron Fuel Injector cleaner ( same as above). FYI, I put in like 14 gallons for the 12 oz. Before the cold weather came, we had gone through the tank with the fuel injector cleaner. Car seemed to be running real well, but the test was when multiple mornings where temps were in the 10 to 25 degree temperature range, and every morning she started up and had NO signs of running lean.
The Engine light is still on, but I plan to reset it and see if comes back on.
So in summary:
1) Started using 93 Octane gas all the time
2) Used Techron Concentrate plus ( 20 oz) bottle
3) about 1 month later used 12 oz Techron Fuel Injector cleaner.
Family loves driving the Escape and they are all happy campers. For now.

It is the intake gaskets. They are renowned for leaking... Allowing air in and messing up the air fuel mixture. It is actually a very simple and inexpensive fix to replace the intake gaskets. It is most likely the upper intake gaskets... I would try those first before replacing the lower intake gaskets which would require lifting off the fuel rail.

It is the intake gaskets. Try the upper ones first.