Codes P1457 and P1456?

I take it you have a leak code, correct? What is the actual code? Has the system had a smoke test done?

Were the circuits that control those parts tested as well? Attached are the OE tests for that code. I would go over the control circuits first. It could be that there is no physical leak but instead a bad connector or broken wire that is causing it. There is also the possibility that a new part that was installed is actually bad. Unfortunately, that is a common thing these days.

A tank pressure sensor could cause this but those will commonly trigger a few codes not just the one you have. Do you have a scan tool that can do bidirectional tests on the car? If yes, an easy way to test the tank sensor is to start with a half tank or so of fuel. Put the scan tool on it and read the pressure in the tank on the tool. Remove the gas cap. The sensor should show atmospheric pressure for your area. Now put the cap on and start the engine. Let it run a bit and then shut it off and seal the EVAP system by closing the purge and vent valves. The slightly warmer fuel should give off vapor that will slowly cause the tank pressure to rise and that should show on the data. Then start the engine and run a service bay test where you use the purge valve control to pull a vacuum on the tank and watch the pressure drop. Then open the vent valve and the vacuum should drop and the tank return to atmospheric pressure. Those will tell you if the FTP is the issue.
Looks like they replaced to connector, they may have tested the wiring at that time (at least I hope they did) but if you go to that connector you can test it real quick with the scan tool. Connect a test light across the 2 terminals and turn the valve on. The light should light up to full brightness. Now as you bought the part and just told them to install it, they may not have done any testing, just replaced the part the customer told them to replace.
The easy way to test the purge valve is to blow through it, with it disconnected it should be sealed so nothing can pass. Then apply 12 volts and it should be open and let air through.
If you don't have a scan tool but want to do your own repairs, I would suggest getting one of the mid-range tools from Autel, TopDon or Launch that has bidirectional control and can work with your vehicle. It can save a lot of time and money by letting you do the testing and repairs yourself. Or at least know if a shop is doing the correct repairs when you take it in. IE you take it in for an EVAP leak and they tell you the issue is a bad intake valve it would raise a red flag.

For the test light you just need a basic unit with a common bulb, they can do more than the fancy ones, but that one would work for some other testing. Scan tool wise I think the Topdon might handle what you need. I use the higher-level ones myself and don't pay much attention to the smaller units.

We will be here.

The yellow wire with black is power and should turn the light on. The red wire with yellow is a switched ground and would show as a ground if the solenoid was active. So, your test light showing power likely indicates that the wiring isn't an issue. However, you would still need a scan too to do the full EVAP test. There are a lot of scan tools that have gaps in coverage or that emit some tests and it's hard to know which ones do what. I know mine can run that test but that doesn't help you any.

Well you could look online for an OTC Genisys scan tool (Like eBay item 226350485262 for reference). They are an older pro level tool but one that works very well. They are not as fancy as the newer tools but as long as they have the domestic and Asian software newer than your vehicle they will work. If you get one of the newer EVO models with all the older cables you can handle pretty much every vehicle from 1988 - 2013 if they are updated fully.
Tons of them on the auction site.

Hard to say, they don't tell which software is installed and activated. You need to be sure it has the Asian software in it and activated. Without that it's useless. You need at least these two software releases; The US and Asian cards at least are needed. They came out with new software yearly so get the latest you can find as they added features over time even to earlier vehicles. So, 2005 or later should be fine. They stopped updating that tool around 2012 or so because the companies came out with more dedicated tools cheaper.

Normally you would buy the tool with the software you wanted, then as you used it you bought newer software and installed it as needed. I have one that is updated to 2010, and it still works very well. But when the newer tools like my Launch and Autel tools started having specials where you could buy a new scan tool, get 2 years of updates free and still have it cost less than just a software update, that is what I started doing. However, that might be overkill if you are not making money with the tool.

Toss a battery charger on it and see if the tool then shows it to be above 12 volts. If it doesn't then check the battery connections at both ends. Measure the voltage at the battery, 12.6 is a fully charged battery. If you actually see 10 volts then the battery has a bad cell in it and needs to be replaced. Testing wise, the screens with the solenoid tests should work. The CVS is Canister Vent Solenoid. The PCS is purge control solenoid. You can test both of those with that tool if it will trigger them. Just use the test light connected to the harness side and turn each one on and off. If the computer has control the test light will turn on.