No spark?

Hi,

If the spark is weak and grounds are good, it sounds like the coil itself is bad. However, there are a couple other things that can cause it. I would suggest checking it. Here are the directions for testing the coil, air gap on the pic up coil, and the pick up coil itself. I realize the coil is new as well as the pick up coil, but new parts can be bad.

The attached pics will correlate with these directions.

________________________________________

1996 Toyota Corolla Sedan L4-96.8 1587cc 1.6L DOHC (4A-FE)
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Ignition Coil Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
DISTRIBUTOR INSPECTION

NOTICE: "Cold" and "Hot" in the following sentences express the temperature of the coils themselves.
"Cold" is from - 10 °C (14 °F) to 50 °C (122 °F) and
"Hot" is from 50 °C (122 °F) to 100 °C (212 °F).

1. DISCONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR
2. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP
3. REMOVE ROTOR
4. REMOVE IGNITION COIL DUST COVER

Ignition Coil

pic 1

5. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.

Primary coil resistance:
Cold: 0.36 - 0.55 ohm
Hot: 0.45 - 0.65 ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

Pic 2

6. INSPECT SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive (+) and high-tension terminals.

Secondary coil resistance:
Cold: 9.0 - 15.4 K ohm
Hot: 11.4 - 18.1 K ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

Distributor

pic 3

7. INSPECT AIR GAP
- Using a feeler gauge, measure the air gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil projection.

Air gap: 0.2 - 0.4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in.)

- If the air gap is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.

Pic 4

8. INSPECT SIGNAL GENERATOR (PICKUP COIL) RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Pickup coil resistance:
Cold: G (+) and G(-): 185 - 275 ohm
Hot: G (+) and G(-): 240 - 325 ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.
9. REINSTALL IGNITION COIL DUST COVER
10. REINSTALL ROTOR
11. REINSTALL DISTRIBUTOR CAP
12. RECONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR

____________________________

Let me know if this helps. If you can't do this, let me know. I don't like recommending replacing parts until I'm sure what is bad. However, if you don't feel confident in performing these tests, I would start with the coil. Since you recently replaced it, it should be under warranty. Make sure the air gap on the pick up coil is good.

Let me know.

Joe

Not a problem. I hope you are doing well. Stay safe!

Joe

Check the distributor pick up coil -the computer has to get the Ne and G signals in order for the computer to tell the ignitor to fire the coil.

If those tests were done cold, the primary is out of spec, but the secondary is within spec. Since it isn't spec, I would say it's bad. Did you check the pick up coil?

Joe

Yes the pick-up coil takes its place. If its 1.8L engine it has the CPS. The CPS resistance Cold should be 1630-2740 ohms Hot -2065-3225 ohms

Hi,

The only thing that is out of spec then is the coil. It isn't that far out, but that is the only thing I would try simply because of the readings you got.

Let me know.
Joe

Stop throwing parts at it. You most likely have more fuses blown. Check them first before you go broke throwing unneeded parts into the car.

Roy

You are very welcome. If you get a chance, please let me know if this takes care of the problem.

Take good care of yourself.

Joe

Well, we know it is not the distributor. Usually when this happens it blows several fuses. There are also some fusible links off the positive batter cable that need to be checked.
Go back over all the fuses with a test light and the links as well.

Roy

Hi,

That is a great question. I looked through the schematic and found the power from the ignition switch powers all the igniter and fuel injection See pic 2. It appears the ECM provides a ground path for injection to occur. I did notice there is a splice in the wire between the ignition and injectors. Take a look at the attached pic. You may want to check that splice.

As far as the books definition of the injection system, here it is:

SFI system Monitors the Engine Revolutions through the signals each sensor (Input Signals (1) to (12)) inputs to the Engine Control Module. Based on this data and the program memorized in the Engine Control Module (ECU), the most appropriate fuel Injection timing is decided and current is output to terminals #10, #20, #30 and #40 of the Engine Control Module, causing the Injectors to operate it (to Inject fuel). It is this system which, through the work of the Engine Control Module, finely controls fuel Injection in response to driving conditions.