My engine stalls while driving?

I meant 60 psi sorry

We tried all these options

The idle air control valve has been changed and the check engine light does not come on so I changed out the crankshaft angle sensor and the engine is running great no more stalling :)

I was driving my truck it was running great then all of a suden it shut off. There isnt any codes coming up and I believe it is an electrical problem the coil tests fine there is no spark to the plugs though. The connector to the coil also tests fine but still no spark. What could this be? I am sorry I do not have any money to donate my home is in forclosure and now my truck will not start I am at a complete loss right now.

Just bought this vehicle. It is great except when it is hot out (never does it at night) it will try stall out usually it will pick it self up and take off again. But when stop and sometimes slow down to make a turn it shuts off. Usually starts with at least second turn sometime it will take four or five tries.I notice this happens more when I am running air if it starts stalling I shut air off sometimes it is okay, but sometimes will continue to shut off. We haven't done any testing or replacing parts as of yet it just started doing this.

On hot days when the air conditioner is running and I have noticed the gas tank is half full or less, after driving for a period of time the car will start to sputter and lose power and eventually die. I can start it again but it continues to sputter. If I leave the car for about a half hour it will start again and run fine. Any ideas?

These are symptoms of a fuel pump that is getting hot. The lower the fuel in your tank, the less gets sloshed onto the fuel pump. Just keep it above half, and you should be fine.

I have had the vehilce for nearly 6 years, very well maintained and has been very reliable. Recently it has been nearly stalling or on one occasion has cut out completely while driving. I have not been able to isolate what causes it. It has occured while accelerating, cruising at varying speeds, stopping and turning. It acts almost as if it is out of fuel or being choked, then resumes normal operation after a few seconds. No check engine light, no suspicious sounds or odors. Any thoughts as to what it could be would be helpful. Thank you!

You need to check the fuel pump pressure. Then check all the vacum lines around on the top of the engine. Also, check the air hose that connect from the air intake to the engine head. You may need to do the cleaning in the air intake malnifold. Open the rubber duck that connect to the air intake malnifold. You need to remove it completely. The rubber duck I clean it with soap and wipe it out with clean tower. The air intake, right at the throttle switch, I clean it with a bottle label, injection throttle cleaner. Do not buy the injection cleaner.
Spray it around inside the throttle intake and clean it. Do it at least 5 times, and clean it. I found there was a lot of dirt and crease stucked around the inside of the throttle switch. After I started the engine, it was shaking a bit and took less than a minute to start. But when it started, the problem seems never came back again.
I show this procedure to some people with the Explorer problem. They called me back and said they fixed the problem.
Good luck,
Tony

Thanks for the feedback, still having the same problem though. I have replaced the air filter, IAC valve (this was giving some problems before), PCV valve and cleaned the throttle body. I have also checked plug wires and vacuum lines with no evidence of damage or leaks. Since then the CEL has come on, code P0320 (Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction). This seems to be a non specific ignition issue. I have noticed that during the stalling/choking episodes, the tach and speedometer readings are very erratic, then the vehical returns to normal operation. Once again, any thoughs are appreciated.

Try this one.
Tape a pair of wire to the fuel pump wiring. One to the ground, the vehicle body and the other to the wire after the fuel shut off switch. The other terminal you could tape the pair to a DC volt meter. What you should do at this point is to check the voltage that drives the fuel pump and also to check the fuel shut off switch.
If the meter displays 12v or lower when the engine shuts off in 30 seconds during the driving, you properly have the good fuel shut off switch and a chance you have the bad fuel pump. If the engine is stopping without the voltage reading about 30 second, you may have a bad fuel shut off switch, or the fuse holder, or you may check the wiring that drives the voltage through the fuel pump.
Good luck,
Tony

Thanks again for the input. I had a guy check it out. Narrowed it down to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). Replaced it, driven about 150 miles and so far so good. Darn thing only cost $15 at pepboys.

I recently got a 2000 explorer. I had a check engine light for a lean fuel mix on one bank, But it ran, had a pinging when accelerating. Let it sit for a few weeks and then it wouldn't stay running. It would start, idle roughly, then die. Moved it into my yard, let it sit a few weeks, and now it won't start.

I checked the fuel pressure when it started idling rough (my first guess as to the problem) and it was around 60 psi, and did not falter when the engine died.

The current engine codes are: P0171 and P0174 (fuel mix too lean) and P1405 (no idea, not a listed code for me)

What do I need to do?