Engine is stalling while driving?

Tiny
DAZEBOY79
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
While driving, when I press down on gas, sometimes it doesn't respond. It goes dead for a sec, then will catch and run fine for 5-15min at a time. Sometimes it seems to stall out more often on a hill. I'm leaning towards something in the fuel system, or a vacuum leak?

I had a used motor put in last year after I left water as coolant through the winter time. Ran fine for a while, now it hesitates and stalls out intermittently. I have no OBD codes. I have replaced EGR valve, IAC valve, Intake Manifold gaskets, TPS, MAF sensor, power steering pump. Alternator and battery are good.

1999 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer SOHC 4.0L

Thanks for your time,
Chris
Thursday, August 13th, 2015 AT 7:55 PM

42 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check fuel pressure with a gauge should be 57-63 psi key on only. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Friday, August 14th, 2015 AT 9:18 AM
Tiny
DAZEBOY79
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Hello hmac300,

I appreciate your response, I currently have the engine taken apart, but I seem to remember checking my fuel pressure with key on around 30 psi. According to my Haynes Manual, it should be in the range 30-65 psi.

I will test again and get back to you when I get it all back together again.

Thanks again,
Chris
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Friday, August 14th, 2015 AT 5:03 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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  • 48,601 POSTS
I don't think Haynes is correct it's 57-73 I made an error first time. Key on only
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Saturday, August 15th, 2015 AT 5:51 AM
Tiny
JLROBERTSONJR
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Thanks! The guides really helped me figure out the fuel pump has bad, got a new one running great!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM
Tiny
JIMBOMM
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Ok, my wife was driving my 99 for explorer and it just died in the middle of the road. Since then we have not been able to get it started. Occasionally it will sound like it is going to turn over, but dies immediately. I disconnected the fuel filter and tested the fuel pump, it was good. Then we check; in no particular order; The Coil (which fired great), the injectors (all fine), The plugs, the plug wires, fuel lines, Inertia switch, the throttle body position switch. I then replaced the O2 sensor on the transmission, and the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The fuel is making it to the fuel rail, and the computer isn't throwing and error codes,

I am out of ideas. Please Help
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure with a gauge EFI system don't like low pressures
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMBOMM
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel filter, and I "tested" the fuel pump my disconnecting the fuel line at the filter, and turning the ignition. The pump produced what I would call a decent amount of gas.
So, Since I know the regulator and filter are good,
am I right in assuming that the only thing that could cause low presure would be a week or non-functioning fuel pump?

And since my pump is definitivly sending gas. I guess my question would be,
Will a week fuel pump completly prevent the vehicle from starting?

(The main reason I am asking this is becuase I don't want to shell out the $75 dollars for a gauge)
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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It might be spitting out fuel but is it 30-65psi as required by specs. Guessing can be costly, also are you getting ignition spark and are the injectors pulsing?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMBOMM
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
As I say, I do not have a gauge to check the actual Fuel Pressure. The sparkplugs are firing, and the Injector Coil is Pulsing, I used an Ohm meter to test the injectors themselves, they read at 15 ohms which is within the tolerance range of 11-18 ohms that the "Chilton service manual" says means the injector is functional.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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If the sparkplugs are firing then you have a fuel problem or a valve and ignition timing
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GRIBBLEP
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  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
Purchased 18 months ago and ran fine until last month. Progressively harder to start, without pumping accelerator; idle speed lower and beginning to stall when stopped; when accellerating, hesitates initially. Suspect fuel pump (or filter) or mass air flow sensor.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Hi:
Has the check engine light ever come on or have you checked for codes? Most nationally recognized parts stores will scan the computer for free to check. It may be a good idea to start there.

If the light hasn't come on, I tend to agree with you about a fuel related issue. Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Has the fuel filter been replaced reciently? The hard start even leads me to wonder if the pump is good, but there is a leaking injector or fuel line allowing fuel pressure to drop too quickly. Have you ever smelled gas?

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GRIBBLEP
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No check engine light, no codes checked (yet), no smell of fuel or noticable leaks. Haven't "checked" anything yet, incl fuel pressure. Filter has NOT been replaced since I got the vehicle 18 months ago, could be 10 yrs old. Noticed a (metallic?) Ticking sound from engine a month ago, but sounded more like a belt going bad, based on slowness.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I would recommend checking the fuel filter and then fuel pressure. It may be a good idea to replace the filter just for preventative mainenance.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THANOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with 140k miles on it. Just recently when driving, if I hit bumps in the road, the engine will just shut off. Once I roll to a stop, it will restart. Any thoughts? Bad ground somewhere?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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More likely to be a loose connection somewhere. Check for loose wire connectors. Id any wires are loose and hanging around, have them secured to prevent them shaking/moving when vehcle is subjected to bumps.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THANOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks! I've been checking connections this morning, but haven't found anything looking suspicious yet.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Go to the parts stores and have a scan performed to check for trouble codes. If any codes are present, that sould be the circuit that you should concentrate on for now.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GONEHOME
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 17 MILES
Engine runs to rich. Water drips heavily from exhaust pipe. I had it towed to the dealer and it has been there since Dec 23. The engine will start and idle rough for 10 minutes then stalls. If I put it in gear it immediately stalls. They have replaced the O2 sensers, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned fuel injection, replaced the PCM and replaced the DPFE senser. The engine still runs the same and they say they cant find whats the matter. Has anyone run in to this problem.
Thanks, I need my vehicle back, gonehome
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,709 POSTS
Based on the rough idle, I would be checking for vacuum leaks. Also, have they checked the EGR? It could be stuck. They should have checked the fuel pressure regulator when they checked pump pressure, but I hate to assume. Also, the temp sensor could be an issue. It tells the computer both ambient temp and coolant temp. From that, the computer tells the injectors how rich to make the fuel mixture. If it thinks it is -20 degrees F, it will run too rich. One last thing, make sure they checked the catalytic converter to make sure it isn't plugged?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)

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