Car has no Tail Lights?

Have you checked the fuses?

It may not be labeled as such. The best is to just use a test light to check each fuse under the hood and inside the car. There's two little holes on top of each one to probe. Some will have 12 volts on both sides all the time. Some will have 0 volts on both sides if that circuit is turned off. You're looking for one that has 12 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other when the tail lights are turned on.

Also observe if the dash lights work. Those tap off the tail light circuits. Observe the radio display too to see if it dims and if you can adjust it.

Due to a house fire, I have to drive into town and sit in the library to use the internet. They're closing now. I'll be back tomorrow to see how you're doing.

This question is nine years old, so I have to assume the problem has been solved by now. Many people never come back to tell us what they found for the solution.

You need to start a new question specific to your vehicle. Unlike on other sites where anyone can jump in and confuse the issue, here it becomes a private conversation between the two of us, and we will stick with you until we find a solution. We have well over a dozen highly-experienced experts waiting to help, but when you piggyback on someone else's question, I am the only person who is going to get an automated e-mail message directing me back here to read the reply. None of the other experts are going to see your comment or have a chance to reply. That may not get you the help you need.

As far as not providing the correct answer for your situation, we are rarely so lucky as to know the answer with one reply. We often go back and forth with people for weeks or months when necessary, to find the solution. Common sense and logic dictate the place to start with this problem is with testing fuses. That's not the answer. That's the starting point. If a fuse is found to be blown, we have to figure out why. Often a new fuse will not blow right away, then we have a harder time finding the cause. When the new one blows right away, we have tricks few people know of to help with the diagnosis.

Once we know the fuses are okay, testing at various places in the circuit is necessary to come to a diagnosis. You didn't provide any test results or any usable observations or clues to get us started. You DID include the dash lights are also not working. That already cuts the list of suspects in half. I can write up a list of four or five dozen things that can cause there to be no tail lights. You want me to point to the one thing on that list that is causing your problem. I'm not that good.

The person who originally posted this question stated the back-up lights work, yet he replaced the fuse for the back-up lights. Does that make sense? He couldn't find a fuse labeled for "tail lights". There's two ways to go next. I could look up the fuse box layout for his model, copy it, then reformat it to something that can be uploaded, then he will have a digital version of what he is already looking at in his car. When time is money and we have to charge customers by the hour, it is far faster and more efficient to just test the fuses with a test light. That is what I posted, and it's what you're calling, "not an answer". Can you figure out a better way to diagnose an electrical problem?

Here's the link if you want to post a new question:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Please be sure to list the details requested. We need to know the engine size. Different engines use different systems and include different optional equipment. Knowing the engine size and transmission type helps us find the right diagrams. Also list the current mileage and any recent history or service leading up to the problem. We use that to make generalizations as to best suspects or best places to start.

Some of us are only here an hour or two per day, so it can take some time to get follow-up replies. If you expect an instant answer, you don't need us. You can ask any mechanic, but you won't get any better answer. If I happen to see your new question and I reply first, I'll post the diagram for your tail lights. Since I already know the dash lights are included in the problem, I can point out the best place to start with voltage tests. You'll need a test light or a voltmeter. If you aren't familiar with using them, start out with these articles:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

They're using a voltmeter with the "auto-ranging" feature. That's an expensive feature you don't need. Harbor Freight Tools has a perfectly fine meter for $7.00, and a nice test light for less than that. You can find these at Walmart or any hardware store too. I can help you set up the voltmeter if needed.

If you'd prefer to throw a dart at the list of suspects, I would have you pull out the headlight switch and look at the wires in its connector and the rivets holding the terminals to the switch. That switch is a good place to find overheated / arced / burned connections. If you find that, the switch must be replaced but this will occur again unless the mating terminals in the connector are also replaced. If the wires and terminals look okay, they provide the best test points to start the diagnosis. I can walk you through that once we have the right diagram.