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Engine stalls while driving?

Tiny
JENNIEMCCONNELL26
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
My 1999 gmc yukon is vapor lock, what is going on?
Sunday, July 17th, 2011 AT 10:19 PM

27 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
So if you take off the gas cap it starts?Whats going on?I need more info?

This guide is a good place to start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Sunday, July 17th, 2011 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
HOTDOG53
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
1999 GMC Yukon 5.7 2wd auto. The truck starts and runs fine for about the 30 minutes, then starts to stall / bog when trying to accelerate. The more it is driven and the more heat generated (hot days, running AC) the worse it gets. Eventually it will not be able to accelerate above an idle.

I feel that this is heat related because the longer it's driven, the less usable throttle you have. You can pull over and sit for 5 minutes and get about 5% throttle back.

I have put a code reader on it, and there are none. The service engine light never comes on. Fuel pump and filter are less than 6 months old.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOTDOG53
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I guess I'll keep adding to my question until some body knows the answer.

So far I have replaced the TPS, Cam position module, Distributor Cap and Rotor, Knock Sensor, Checked fuel pressure (no less than 50 psi).

I put a timing light on it and noticed that as you start to increase rpm, the timing advances, then when it starts to bog, it throws a large amount of retard.

If I could find out how giving it more thottle retards the ignition, I think I could end this madness.

Don't be shy, come on in, the waters fine.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEVILMAN182
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My truck is doing the samething I was just wondering if you where able to get your truck fix and maybe send me into a better direction
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOTDOG53
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Turns out is was the fuel pump.

I had replaced the factory pump about 6-8 months earleir with an aftermarket pump. As a result, under full throttle or after the pump would get hot the truck would start running lean causing it to bogg.

They I found it was running lean, I had a guy hook his OBDII laptop and flash software to the truck while I was driving, and you could see the reaction in the o2 sensors.

I put the factory GM pump back in it, and now runs great. I have heard that the Carter pump works very well also, but stay away from any other pumps.

Kurtis
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
13LSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
Will my fuel system running at 49 psi stop my injectors from spraying, the system calls for 65 psi
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
13LSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Im sorry let me rephrase, my engine cranks but will not start, the pressure at the test port is 49, I believe mine should be 65-66 or somewhere there about, my question is will it pressuring to only 49 will that keep my injectors from firing?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Yea that would be a problem does it idle? Run with no power?Or no start? All indicate low fuel pressure
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
13LSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Wont do anything but turn over, will start if I add fuel to the intake
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Well there is your answer fuel pump has filter been changed?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • 200,000 MILES
Last night my car stopped on me while at a drive thru after I just purchased gas, when I started the car it ran for 3 or4 seconds. I attempted this action another 3 or 4 times with the same outcome. I tried pressing the gas to rev the engine but the car dies right after the gas is pressed. Any idea what the problem may be, and an estimate on the cost to fix?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
13LSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Odly enough, no not yet, I know im a dumb-@%$
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It may be a fuel pump, check your fuel pressure, also this model vehicle had a problem with a bad wiring harness by tank so when getting a new fuel pum make sure it has the harness included because it has a different connector. Costs vary accross u.S.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHIERICH1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 GMC YUKON
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Press on gas pedal engine wants to die out and vehicle will not restart without the use of starting fluid
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure with a gauge to rule out the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump if okay check and test the fuel pump relay and fuel pump/oil pressure sending unit
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MRMANN187
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 GMC YUKON
  • 210,000 MILES
Truck would run for a while then it would kill. After a while would not have pressure to take off. It worldstar but when u give it gas would kill, like it was straining to pull of. Changed crank sensor, cam sensor and now it want start at all.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2013GREENS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 GMC YUKON
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I am having an issue to where if my truck sit overnight or long periods of time it won't start I check the alternator and starter and they came back good if the battery is old or weak could this be an issAa. It will start up with a jump and if it use daily there usually isn't an issue.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check battery for condition including load test after it's charged. Then check for a parasitic draw it may be a bad abs unit taking power after truck has been shut off. Most places do battery testing for free
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MY NAME IS MATT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1994 GMC YUKON
Without warning, and not insidiously, my Yukon began to stall, mostly at low speed after heavy throttle use. At idle, when stopped, the RPMs are about 200-300!
Can anyone tell me how to increase the idle speed? (I've already used injector cleaner and water remover) I'm trading the thing soon and don't want to replace the TPS, or the IAC. Need an easy fix.

ON EDIT: The haynes manual says to take her in to get the idle adjusted. Screw that!
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)

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