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Car stalls while driving?

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
When this happens do the lights or anything esle work, or is it completely dead? Check idle air control valve and crank position sensor
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSHOWARTH
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
What do suggest I do?
Reassemble and make sure the wires are not touching or what.
Is it Ok for the tube not to be a tight fit in the crankcase?
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PUNKSMOM86
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The interior over head lights come on and the dash lights come on after letting is sit for about 2-3 mins. But the radio does not come on.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_coil_checks_1.jpg



First, isolate the coil pack by disconnecting all the leads. Set the ohmmeter in the low range, and recalibrate if necessary. Connect the ohmmeter leads across the ignition coil primary terminals, and compare the primary resistance reading to specifications (typically less than 2 ohms). Then connect the ohmmeter leads across the coil secondary terminals and compare the secondary resistance reading to specifications (typically 6,000-30,000 ohms). If readings are outside the specified range, the coil is defective and needs to be replaced.
If measuring the secondary resistance of a DIS coil is difficult because of the coils location, try removing the wires from the spark plugs and measure secondary resistance through the plug wires rather than at the secondary terminals on the coils. Just remember to add in a maximum of 8,000 ohms of resistance per foot for the plug wires

lube the end of the tube that goes in the cranckcase with engine oil. insert it in the hgole. must easier.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Have you tried to get any fault codes from a computer scan? Bring it to autozone, they will do it for free. There is also a possibility that the voltage regulator could be faulty, check all fuses too
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSHOWARTH
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Resistance across each set of secondary terminals of the coils is between 5000-6000 ohms
Ignition coils primary terminal resistance.4-.5 ohms.
No cracks or visual signs of arcing or carbon on coils or ICM only signs of oxidization (white powder)
Regards
Mike
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
5000-6000 ohms it is out of specification. Should be 6,000-30,000 ohms
oxidation should not be there, it seem like the icm overheat.
The coil may be faulty.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSHOWARTH
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The Haynes manual for this vehicle says it should be between 5000-7000 ohms.
I have cleaned all the contacts and have put the ICM back in the van.
It will now start fine, no backfire, accelerate fine and is running smoothly but stops after about 15 minutes it will not maintain an idle rpm and is hard to restart.
Does this still sound like the ICM?
Thanks
Mike
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHIASO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,209 POSTS
The vehicle has not been on the road for 11/2 years.
It starts fine when cold, stops running when hot.
This is the problem we're having. This happen when a poor or corrosion in wiring connection stops working.
If the ICM is oxidized, or white power on it, it should not be there, I do not know how badly is the oxidation, or check poorly connection that may overheat
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSHOWARTH
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Changed ICM and coils, vehicle now seems to operate fine have had it running for over 30 min but not taken it on a run yet.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NTK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET VENTURE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Hi, about 5000 miles ago I put new cylinder heads on this motor with new head and intake gaskets, new head bolts, and new push rods and it has ran great until today. My wife took it to Burger King and it stalled on her once while sitting at the drive through. She started it up no problem and came home and it was running normal/good. We just got in it to leave and it will not stay running and the oil pressure light won't go out when it does start. It will run for a few seconds put it's stumbling very badly and I don't think it's getting any oil to the top end because the lifters are rattling very loud along with other sounds in the engine from lack of oil. It was running perfect when she got back here and shut it off though. Do you have any idea what could be wrong with it? Do you think it could be the timing chain jumped? And if it could be the timing chain would that cause the lifters to rattle like they are? That's all I can think of, unless the camshaft broke but I know that's highly unlikely. One other thing I wanted to mention is that for some reason this van has never wanted to rev up. It will hit a certain RPM and then not want to go higher, it will, but it's slow to do so. But I think that is because when she bought it it had bad head gaskets and I think the catalytic converter is plugged up, or at least partially. She didn't have the money to do anything with the exhaust (yet). Thank you very much for any help you can be.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROCKWOOD84
  • MECHANIC
  • 103 POSTS
These motors use the camshaft to run the oilpump if the camshaft breaks then no oil pump and noise at the top of the motor. Sorry to say but it sounds like the cam is broke. The camshaft uses a drive rod to turn the oilpump if there is something broke on the camshaft or the drive rod then it can't pump oil.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARRY345
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET VENTURE
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Venture 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my van stalled right after it started to run rough
I came to a stop and it died. It would not start after that so I towed it home and tried to start it and now it is making a bad knocking noise. But it did start. All ready took off belt and made sure everything was free and it was. Not sure what to check next.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JETSA
  • MEMBER
  • 117 POSTS
Knocking is scary. You might not want to check too much of anything that has to do with starting the engine. Possibly the engine lost oil pressure thus the knocking noise. There is an oil pressure sensor that will kill the fuel pump to shut down the engine in cases of low oil pressure, to protect the engine.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MGJONES9103
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET VENTURE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Hello I have a 98 chevy venture that when you are driving and pressing the gas or just sitting at a stop light will stall out. I was sitting in the driveway easing into the accelerator and it sort of cuts out when I get to a certain point. What could be the problem?
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROOSEVELT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Well I can tell you for one thing you need to check is all your spark plugs and spark plug wires. If one is exposed and intermidetly touching anything it will case the engine to shut off. You may need a full tune up.
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-1
Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MILNE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET VENTURE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
1997 chev ventura 3.4litre. Stalls in drive but not in reverse. I checked fuel pressure ok. No codes available. Need help with this one.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try cleaning the throttle plate and iac. Alot of times these get oily and stick causing your problem. Use choke cleaner and clean both sides of throttle plate. The iac is the oblong hole by the plate just shoot stuff in there. It may be hard tostart after this.
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADERLU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET VENTURE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
My van was acting up for a couple of weeks. When you slow to a stop, it would die (stall) and then you have to restart it and keep it going. I took it to a mechanic and he said it just needs a tune up and told me to bring it in next week. I was driving home from work and the engine light came on, it make a weird BRR noise and then it lost power, steering tightened up, and it slowed to its death on the side of the interstate. I have had it towed and I am just wondering what to expect. Obviously, it needs more than a tune. Up!

UPDATE!
Well, I got a call back from the mechanic and it needs a new engine. :(
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check engine light On:

Go to Autozone its a free public service and have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis, finding out what's going on
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)

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