1998 Plymouth Breeze will not start

By "resetting the timing" do you mean the timing belt was off? This is an interference engine. If the belt was off by three or more teeth, there are going to be bent valves. A compression test will show low compression. A cylinder leakage test will show why. You may be able to borrow both tools from an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools.

Do you mean the timing belt was off the sprockets, or it was off a few teeth? The Engine Computer will turn on the Check Engine light when the belt jumps one tooth, and the diagnostic fault code will be "cam and crank sync". At two teeth off it will shut the engine down to protect the valves. At three teeth off, the valves will be hit by the pistons and be bent.

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Had to run to town for a few hours.

Most diagnostic fault codes will self-erase after 50 engine starts if the problem is fixed or if an intermittent one doesn't act up in that time. You can also disconnect the negative battery cable for half a minute but that will also erase the fuel trim numbers. That isn't a big deal but you'd like to avoid adding any new variables when you already have a problem you're trying to diagnose.

Which sensor did you unplug? The crankshaft position sensor, (CKP), is on the back of the engine block, and the camshaft position sensor, (CMP), is on the driver's side of the cylinder head.

Normally you need both of them to be working for the ASD relay to turn on. The Engine Computer turns the ASD relay on for just one second after turning on the ignition switch. That's to run the fuel pump to insure fuel pressure is up for starting. It turns that relay on again during engine rotation, (cranking or running), and it knows that by the pulses it receives from the cam and crank sensors. Normally it will turn that relay off when the signal is missing from either sensor. It wasn't until around 2001 or 2002 that some engines would run with just one sensor working.

The ASD relay sends current to the ignition coil pack, injectors, alternator field, oxygen sensor heaters, and fuel pump or pump relay, so if it doesn't get turned on, the engine won't run. You won't have spark or injector pulses. You will still have fuel pressure due to that one-second burst when you turned on the ignition switch.

Measure the voltages on its three wires while the ignition switch is turned on and the sensor is unplugged. One should have 5.0 volts. Back-probe that same wire through the rubber seal to measure the voltage while it's plugged in. If that voltage drops to near 0 volts, that sensor is shorted and must be replaced.

Did you measure for the 5.0 volts with the sensor unplugged and plugged in?