My engine is misfiring can you fix it?

Hello, Yesterday my check engine light went on. Then today it went off. So I decided to check the codes. I got p0300, p0301, p0304. Ngk iridium plugs and ngk wires installed a few months ago. Dizzy is about a year old. Any suggestions? Also im getting hard starts and rough idles on cold starts like he last few days in a row. It was idling like it was on 3 cylinders.

Last night and today the guage was going up a little not more then 3 quarters. Then when I hold my foot no the gas like at 4k rpm it goes down. My resivor is going empty like every 2-3 weeks.

And what would that mean if it had a compression leak. Is it hard to do a compression test if I rent it from auto zone

Thanks for taking the question. My problem started all of a sudden when the car started studdering while it was idleing. I drove it home from work, and on the highway the engine started misfiring once I got to about 50 mph. I think misfiring is the right term: it hesitated and the car jerked every once and a while. I replaced the spark plugs and the cables, and now the car runs smoothly on the highway; however, the car still shakes a lot while it is idleing and the check engine light is still flashing. I listened under the hood, and I can hear a "clacka, clacka, clacka" sound intermitantly coming from inside the engine, and the engine seems to be shaking a lot. Usually, the sound comes in sets of three like in the quote. I would appreciate any help. Thanks

I have a 98 civic lx little 4 banger 1.6L I have a misfire on cylander one according to the computer. I do my own mechanical work this is the only car that has ever had me stumped. Check engine light is on for a misfire on cylander 1 but number 1 isnt misfireing number 2 is I pull one the engine dies down and really misfires I pull plug number 2 and I have no diference. I plug the computer in it says its the ignition module and the misfire on cylander one. I did a brand new cap rotor wires plugs. I even adjusted the valves cause I have spark on all the cylanders I know its getting gas I can smell it in the cylander I even checked the timing. Im outta ideas and I live in ny so I cant put the car on the road with the check engine light on help me please someone

It was misfiring and hesitating, so I replaced the plugs and wires, disconnected the batter to reset the computer, and it ran great! Two days later, its having a hard time starting and the check engine light is on again for cylinder mis-fire and now its starting to attempt to over heat, and about a week ago it blew a radiator hose, so that got replaced as well as the thermostat was not working correctly. Any suggestions on what to do next? Auto Zone said to redo the sparks plugs, I am thinking of the rotor and distributor, but I don't see how that is applying to it not starting well.

Electrical problem
1998 Honda Civic Manual

The car missfires sometimes, white/grey smoke comes out the exhaust. When I remove the 4th spark plug wire (nearer to the battery side) and put it in it seems fine, when I take out the TPS no smoke or misfire happens, when I put it back in it continues to giveout smoke and misfore.

I have replaced spark plugs but not wire. Bleeded the coolant and replaced. The car has been out of commision for nearly 3 years. A tiny amount of petrol was left in the car. Oil and filter has been changed.

I would appreciate if you or anyone can help as I spent alot already on this car, more and more problems keep appearing.

Hello KHLow2008, Thanks for the reply,

Even if I take out the TPS sensor will it indicate cylinder problems when Compression test is done? When TPS is out there is no smoke or misfire(small missfires every minute or so)

I took it to MOT today, it passed everything except emissions, now I dont know if it is the sensor which regulates pertrol or catalyic converter or something else like the distributor.

Does this type of car have oxygen sensors?

In the meantime I will take it tommorrow down a motorway and chuck Redex in to see if it helps.

Bear in mind the car has not been drivin in 3 years and had no previous probs.

Ok I have got it checked out for cylinders and gasket for leakes ect, no probs. So then I changed the throttle body and made a huge improvement on the acceleration and petrol consumption.

The misfiring stopped, very high idle revs came down from 2500 to abt 1500.

Emission failed because of the rich intake of petrol which produces 10 times its normal emmission.

As it stand now, no white smoke, catalyic converter looks okay, cylinders ok, throttle body ok. However still idles high at 1500 revs, it also fluctuates between 1000-2000 revs when its idle or on neutral. As well as petrol consumption. Half tank already gone did only 55 miles and itls only a 1.4i.

If its not mechanical no more could it be electrica?

Honda Civic EX 1998, 132,800 miles, 4-cylinder, automatic, frontwheel drive; I am the original owner, living in Arizona, current temps hovering over 100 degrees (Aug-Sept), car tuned up a month ago. For a few weeks, from a cold start going to work in the morning, the car would hesitate intermittently for a few seconds, with the motor running like it was going over waves on a lake. Too early to call my mechanic and it would smooth out after a block anyway, after which time I would promptly forget about it � til the next morning when it did it again. Finally, it did it on the way home from work, only worse, as � still before 5pm, called mechanic, 'brought it in next morning. He changed out the cap and rodder, thinking bad parts from the tune-up; car runs fine on the way home. Next morning, problem returned. On my way the check engine light comes on (first time) and continues flashing. Flashing... Flashing... Brought it in, my mechanic changed the ignition coil, car runs fine. Next morning, the hesitation is back. On my way home from work, the check engine light comes on solid (not flashing). Drive straight to mechanic; he scans. On the generic scanner: codes P0302 and P1399. On his buddy’s scanner: codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 misfires, “OK to Drive.” He’s not sure what to do next. I need the vehicle so I go with “OK to drive” and leave, but the check engine light is still on and the car is doing the morning hesitation thing. I’m keeping it under 4000RPM. Per my mechanic’s suggestion, until I can do without the car long enough for someone to figure it out what’s the fix... Can you help?