Van overheating

Tiny
MARKROB
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2008 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,000 MILES
The van will overheat at Idle, at a stop the fan will not come on. The fan does come on if the air conditioner is on. I have replaced temp sensor, ran resistor, relays, fuses. When it overheats the reservoir will start popping and shaking.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,577 POSTS
If the A/C is on at a stop with the fan running does it still overheat?
If yes then Hmac is correct.

If it does not overheat then it sounds like the PCM is not telling the fan that the engine is hot and to turn on the fan. To test it you will need a scan tool that can command the fan on and then test the circuit from the PCM to the relay up front. As an initial test you can pull the fan relay and test the connections, there should be power to terminals 30 and 85. Terminal 87 is the output to the fan, terminal 86 is the control terminal.
The high speed relay up front has four terminals as well. Two are large and two small. The large are power in/out and the small ones are the control feeds. Test those as well.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check the fuse and relay in the underhood fuse box first. Switch the relay with a like relay is easiest way to test one. It is rarely a PCM issue with cooling fans. Then check the coolant temperature sensor with an ohmmeter. It will have high ohms when cold and lower as temp goes up.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JBALLEW2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 DODGE CARAVAN
Engine Cooling problem
2003 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Automatic 150941 miles

My car began to overheat about 8-9 months back. We had a leak in the water pump. We replaced the water pump and belt. After that heater would not work right. It would be hot and then it would get cold and our van would start to over heat. It appeared that this would occur when I would stop the vehicle. We had someone remove air from the lines. This temporary fixed the problem however after about a week the problem came back. Not long after we changed the thermostat and the weather changed. I did not seem to have any problems for a couple of months. Then my van began to overheat again. We flushed out the radiator and bought a new cap. This seemed to help the problem some however my radiator would still lose coolant. I could drive it without it over heating but it was still losing coolant for atleast a 40 minute distance however before I would get in my car to go again I would refill the radiator with 50/50 before driving it again. I would be short about 1 gallon. When we took it to the shop to be fixed they said they thought it was the water pump and while they were replacing that they would also replace the thermostat. I told them it wasn't long ago that we replaced both of those things. The man said it could have been a faulty water pump since we have had problems on and off since we replaced the last water pump. He said he did not see any signs that it could be a head gasket. Since the vehicle was not overheating at the time he wanted us to bring it back when it was overheating to be sure. I noticed that morning I had coolant under my van where the water pump is so I brought it back and gave him the okay to replace the water pump and thermostat. He did and as soon as I pulled out of the shop it began to overheat worse than it ever has. In the past when the vehicle was over heating it never reached the H on the meter. We turned around and brought it right back they said they believed it was a clog in the radiator so they replaced the radiator. When we left the shop the car did great for about 10 miles. It slowly went up on the overheat meter until it got to the half way point. It stayed at the halfway point for a few seconds and then it shot quickly up to H and the overheating light came on. This has never happened before. I pulled off the side of the road and noticed that my coolant was boiling out of the overflow tank (this has also never happened before). My radiator is down about a gallon of 50/50 again and the problem is still not fixed and appears worse than ever. Do you have any ideas that can help me. The people at the place we were getting it fixed do not ever seem sure of the solutions to fixing out vehicle. They told me that fixing the water pump and thermostat was not guarenteed to fix the problem. While they appeared sure of replacing the radiator it did not fix the problem and now my vehicle is worse off than before. Other than the overheating problem it runs fine. No white smoke coming from the exhaust. The heater is still not working right. When the vehicle was overheating I turned it on to pull the heat from the engine and it was blowing cold air. Thre is also a spot on my floor that gets wet when I run the heater. Other than that I can not thing of any other problems.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hey Jballew2,

When the water pump went out I'm sure the engine overheated in which case you probably blew the head gasket which is super common on these cars. Here is a guide that will help you test for this condition.

This is the only thing that makes sense, you have covered all your other bases with this problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ELEPHANTEQ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • DODGE CARAVAN
95 Dodge Caravan, 3.0 L V-6, Auto, 2-W Drive, 150k with no serious problems suddenly overheats. Then noticed that it maintains a constant normal temperature while idle but increasing RPMs causes temperature to spike to overheat range. Is this a radiator problem?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
POMPY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Try replacing the thermostat then flush the coolant system hopefully that will work.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LITATUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1994 DODGE CARAVAN
I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan 6 cylinder 3.0 with 84,213 miles. Three days ago it started overheating so I changed the thermostat and it still overheated so I tried flushing the radiator and it still overheats. I checked the oil dipstick and the exhaust for water and I don't see any so I ruled out the head gasket. Does that mean its my water pump? The water pump was just replaced in January of 2002 before I moved from Michigan to California. Could it go bad again in just four years?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANDRAGON
  • MECHANIC
  • 298 POSTS
I have seen water pumps go bad in less than a month if they are rebuilds. The blades on the inside of the pump start slipping and you get much less coolant flow. Are the cooling fans working? I have seen heads crack on the inside on a water jacket and do the same thing. The 3.0 is a mitsu motor and has head problems. The 3.0 has a thermostat alignment bridge just under the thermostat. If you don't align the birdge across the top of the thermostat with the bridge or dam in the caststing it will over heat also. Go to a parts store and have them pull it up on the computer so you can see what I mean.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D_HEWETT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Van has had water pump. Thermostat, tune-up, radiator. Hoses. Cooling temp sensor new fluid, all done in last two weeks. Now its overheating again with no smoke. But can hear bubbling behind driverside dash almost as soon as car is cranked. And heater will blow for a awhile then it goes cold an car overheats. Steam comes from overflow an it bubbles. What now?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Have it block and pressure tested-do the block first to pinpoint a combustion leaking into the cooling system or a gas analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator fill neck.

Pressure test: do not do a pressure test if there's leakage at the headgasket this might cause coolant into the cylinders and lock it up or bend a connecting rod if cranked thereafter. The headgasket should be repaired before doing the pressure test.

If the block and pressure test passes check the following: Thermostat, Pressure test the Rad. Cap, Clogged radiator, Fan clutch, Radiator electrical fan, collaspe hoses, water pump.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMGILLS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
My engine overheated & water is coming from the engine
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Can't really see it clearly from here. Can you describe where it's leaking?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMGILLS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I am not very good at this - but my engine (as I have been told)is side mounted under the dash. The water was coming from the driver side of the engine. I was told to buy Blue devil, I followed the directions on the bottle & after a while having the engine run, out came the water again from the same area.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Can you see if the water is coming from a rubber hose? There isn't much on the driver's side. There are some pressed-in plugs that I suspect are not the problem because any type of additive would not fix that. A small leak in a rubber hose might be able to be plugged for a little while but the tear will get worse the next time the engine warms up and builds pressure in the system.

Someone is going to have to look at it to see what's leaking. If you have to drive it to a mechanic, loosen the radiator cap half way. (Push down on it then turn it counter-clockwise about 1/8 turn. That will prevent it from building up pressure which would push the coolant out faster. When loosened only half way, you won't be able to lift the cap all the way off.

If you start with a cold engine, you should be able to drive about two miles before it overheats, less if you have to go through stop and go traffic. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and shut the engine off if it goes higher than normal. Overheating the engine can warp a cylinder head and cause the head gasket to leak which is a very expensive repair. Also, if the gauge goes all the way down to "cold" assume the engine is hot and let it cool down for 15 - 20 minutes. The gauge won't register when the coolant is empty.

These engines cool down pretty quickly so it is possible to nurse it for quite a long way by driving a mile or two, then letting it cool for 15 minutes. (Turn the engine off to let it cool down; don't just stop and let it idle).

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TODDJOHNSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 DODGE CARAVAN
Other Category problem
1993 Dodge Caravan V6 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 125 miles

I have replaced the thermostat today, waterpump 6 months ago, top radiator hose swells up, antifreez gos into resevoir tank, if you gun the engine it flows sometimes, heater hoses are not getting flow either, is it the water pump? You get heat for a second if u gun the engine, then the hose feels normal, then same issues start again, how can I tell also if the radiator is clogged or has a air pocket, no heat when hose is swelled up, does it sound like the waterpump, obviousl also coolant loss from this would cause no heat, help, I have been working on cars all my life
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Try this fill radiator to the brink, start it up do you see the coolant squirling around if so pinch the upper hose for a few secs and let go-do you see an increase in flow in the radiator-if not the pump is bad.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Inbox : Message
From: toddjohnson
To: rasmataz
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:30 pm
Subject: 93 caravan Todd Johnson
Ive alredy tried pinching the hose on the 93 caravan, if u have the radiator cap off, it pukes antifreez out, idling its fine, driving it causes the up and down heat gauge and overflow into the overfill tank, Head gasket? I as you know have replaced cap, thermostat yesterday again
and pump 6months ago, would a lower pressure cap cause these issues? I am running a 10lb cap, have for 6 months, most likely pump or headgsket?

Get the tests done below and go higher rating on the cap

Have it block and pressure tested-do the block first to pinpoint a combustion leaking into the cooling system or a gas analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator fill neck.

Pressure test: do not do a pressure test if there's leakage at the headgasket this might cause coolant into the cylinders and lock it up or bend a connecting rod if cranked thereafter. The headgasket should be repaired before doing the pressure test.

If the block and pressure test passes check the following: Thermostat, Pressure test the Rad. Cap, Clogged radiator, Fan clutch, Radiator electrical fan, collaspe hoses, water pump.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEHANKS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 13,500 MILES
I recently sent you an email about our Dodge Caravan 1990 3.3 L I forgot to mention after the repairs are made we have been running straight water, that would cause it to over heat fast right
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
You should post this on your original topic.

But no straight water has beter coolign properties unless vehicle is boiling hot and boiling the water then coolant has the edge.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)

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