Car stalls while driving down the road?

Has the check engine light come on? Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure?

Let me know.

Joe

I hate to say it, but in this case what needs to be done is have a mechanic hook up a scanner that watches the engine while it is being run. My first guess is a MAP sensor, but without the check engine light, it becomes a guessing game. I don't want you to start throwing parts into it only to have the same problem. It could even be the crank sensor that is going bad. When they hook up the scanner, they can watch what the system is doing. They can actually freeze frame what the computer is telling the scanner at any given time.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray gumout, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs! If that doesnt do it, you may need a new idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttlebody

It did not say you had check for vacuum leaks, so please disregard my answer?

If I understand your post correctly, you've replaced the fuel filter. Have you replaced the PUMP? There's a check valve built into the pump in the tank. This valve prevents fuel from flowing back to the tank when the pump stops running. If the valve fails, when you shut the engine off, the fuel in the fuel lines, fuel rails at the injectors, etc. Empties back into the tank. This means that when you attempt to start the engine, you have to fill the lines and fuel rails up before the injectors have enough fuel to spray into the cylinder, thus starting the engine.

This could be causing your problem. Try this: Without spinning the motor over, turn the key on for 5 seconds. Turn it back off. Do that again. Turn it back off, leaving it off for about 5 seconds each time. Now try to start it. If it starts up and runs ok, that's it. What you're doing by cycling the key like that is turning the pump on and back off, building up pressure and fuel in the lines. If that doesn't do it, repost and we'll walk through something else.

There is a tech bulletin about fueling problems when the PCM switches from closed loop(cold) to open loop(warm) operation, this may be your problem the computer needs a re-flash at the dealer.

3.1L ENG IDLE SURGE ON COLD START - NEW FLASH PROM TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 67-65-31, 67-65-31A Related Ref Number(s): 67-65-31, 67-65-31A ARTICLE BEGINNING IDLE SURGE ON COLD START (NEW FLASH PROM) Model(s): 1996 Buick Century 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission Bulletin No: 67-65-31A Date: November, 1996 VEHICLES AFFECTED 1996 Buick Century and 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 3100 V6 engine (VIN M - RPO L82).

CONDITION Some owners may comment that the engine idle will fluctuate on the initial cold start of the day prior to the vehicle being shifted out of Park position. This typically occurs at the point the emission control system goes from "open" loop to "closed loop" status. This condition is most noticeable in warmer ambient temperatures. CAUSE The idle surge is caused by the difference in fueling between "open" and "closed" loop operation.

CORRECTION A new flash prom has been released to correct this condition. The following changes have been incorporated in the new flash prom: 1. Time delay increase to closed loop. 2. Smaller fueling corrections in the transition from open to closed loop. NOTE: This bulletin supersedes Technical Service Bulletin 67-65-31, dated September, 1996 and revises Correct Labor Operations Warranty Information. Page 1 of 2 3.1L ENG IDLE SURGE ON COLD START - NEW FLASH PROM -1996 Oldsmobile. 10/18/2008

That large amount of air you hear being sucked in is the Idle Control solenoid at work. This happens when the engine leans out(runs out of fuel). The computer is trying to compensate by adding air to keep it running. This could be a sign that you are running out of gas for some reason. Not necessarilly in the tank but through the injectors. That TSB that was mentioned could be of some help. Read it closely and see if it pertains to you. If, in fact the computer is intermittently having a problem switching from OPEN loop to CLOSED loop, maybe that will help. If you have access to a fuel pressure guage, hook it up and watch it when the vehicle fails again. When you hear that sucking sound, see what the guage says. You may be losing pressure. If so, we'll try to help you figure out WHY!

It's a good possibility, MAF does contol injector pulse width.

Replacing the fuel filter not a bad idea
i would suspect fuel pump or crank sensor
after it stall does it start right back up or it takes time for it to restart
after it does stalls check for spark and check for fuel
fuel filter located under the rear of the car by the fuel tank
Its easier with a lift but don't have to have it

Hello -

First, great job on the info on your car... Thanks. Also, can you let me know if your model is a S or SL? .

We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Next time it stops, pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

I'd do a tune-up on it. Check for applicable mil codes. Use a gage and check fuel pressure.

You could have an intermittent rpm signal, comes from crank sensor. When the problem occurs, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. To check for spark, you can use a known good spark plug or spark tester, don't pull plug from engine. You can carry a spark tester, it won't get hot. If the spark plug wire, where applicable, is hot, use a glove to pull wire loose from spark plug. Stick spark tester in plug boot, ground metal part of tester to metal part of engine, watch for spark, engine cranking.