Punch the accelerator, engine bogs down?

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
This sounds like the fuel pump is weak, I would do a fuel pressure test.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Have to remove the fuel tank from the vehicle to get to it. Not too hard, but would need to be able to lift and support vehicle high enough to remove tank.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULNC57
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
One thing became clear today when I drove it (it's
girlfriends vehicle so I had only driven it briefly before). When you start out on the road it runs fine. Real good in fact. After about 10-15 minutes when it has warmed up is when the issues begin. Then after cutting it off and letting it cool for 20 minutes, it was still too warm. I cranked it up again and same problem. Seems a COLD start and run it works fine but after warm up, problems! Oh, also, at one point I really put my foot into it and it hesitated and backfired but continued running. Tried it again and it didn't backfire again. How should I proceed. Checking what in which priority (from most likely to less likely)?
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAREDWILSKE6185
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Is there any way to make sure that its not my injectors that are going bad rather than my fuel pump or are you pretty sure that the fuel pump is whats causing the problem? Its so weird because it runs good on the first gear shift when you first start it up and then after you start driving it for a minute it start accelerating roughly. It makes me wonder about the fuel pump because it never dies when accelerating, just pops like its not getting enough fuel. ERRRR UH ERRR UH UH UH ERRRRUH ERRRR. Thats how it accelerates if that makes sense to you. LOL
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge, test the throttle position sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor-also test the ignition coil
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
When the injectors start going bad you get single cylinder misfires, not necessarily lacking overall performance. It probably cant hang with the volume/pressure needed to run the engine, that is why it fades when you get going, lack of volume/pressure
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAREDWILSKE6185
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Ok, last question for you. I have found some fuel pumps and they are around 200-300 dollars. Do I also need to replace my plastic tank or can I just replace the pump? I ony plan on having this car for 2 more years and I dont want to dump a bunch of money into it. I found this one for 75 dollars and I was wondering why it was so cheap.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WONDERCHIC
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I also have blazer doing same thing, just wanted to know if replacing fuel pump took care of the problem.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BONNIE26452
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 216,000 MILES
While the Blazer is idling, it runs great. The engine is a Vortec 4.3 High Output with approximately 216,000 miles.
The moment the acceleration pedal is engaged, the engine begins hesitating. It has had all of its belts, hoses, wires, plugs, distributor cap, replaced.
Would love suggestions.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Go to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates
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-1
Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JBRO319
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
HEEELLLPPP! I drive 24miles to work its my only vehicle and I have the same problem on my 98 blazer 4dr 4.3 6cyl vortec. I just had the fuel pump and filter replaced because my sending unit went so no gas gauge, and a slight loss of power accellerating so to be safe I replaced both. Well $550.00 later my gas gauge works, it starts no problem, starts to drive no problem yet when I step on the gas it bogs out can't tell if it's starving for fuel or choking from too much fuel not sure what brand of pump my garage used, they said drive it for awhile and see if it fixes itself. What should I do.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WONDERCHIC
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
Blazer hesitates when I first start driving and then again after stop sign. After about 15 minutes of driving I have no more problems until the next day. It has now sometimes started a small backfire. Last year I had the fuel filter replaced along with a complete tuneup. I have had the distributor cap replaced again just in case it was moisture related, it is still happening, also had oxygen sensors replaced. Help!
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. Also, remove the EGR and make sure it doesn't have carbon plugging it or the intake where it attaches. Make sure it is working properly.

Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WONDERCHIC
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
We tried the things you suggested and still having problems. Prior to your response we have had mechanics tell us it's the computer, or the fuel injectors, or the distributor. Even the dealer doesn't know what it is. We have replaced the thermostat, ignition coil, cleaned the mass air flow sensor, used seafoam to clean injectors. I am at the end of my rope with this problem if you have anymore suggestions I will gladly try them. Thankyou so much for your response.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DPEPE79
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I drove myself nuts with a similar problem. Thinking the engine was flooding or not getting enough gas.

Check your battery connections. I have side screw connections and the negative was rusted and also broke down the threads. You could wiggle the screw.

I replaced the bolt and the problem went away.

If one of the connectors is not bad, don't kill yourself trying to replace the battery wires.

Probably not that simple but at least check it out. Mine is a 1999 and has one of those high end duralast batteries
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUMPHRIES
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Hello, I have a 1997 chevrolet blazer with a 4.3 v6 starts fine and runs good at idle but when you push on the gas pedal it acts like it is misfiring but has no fault code and the stft at idle is at -1.7 to 0
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
How long since a tune-up? What is the ltft? What is the 02 sensor showing, when problem occurs?
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUMPHRIES
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Tune up was done about 6,000 miles ago. The b1 % ltft is -3.1 to -3.9 and the stft b2 % is -2.3 to 0 and the ltft b2 % is -9.3.
The o2 sensor b1 s1 % is -2.3 to 0, b1 s2 % is N/A and b1 s3 % IS N/A.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Why is bank 2 so different ltft? Both are within reason, but, I like to see it closer. Do a cylinder balance test, when problem is ongoing, anything show up?
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Look at misfire counter spec, see if one cylinder has more misfire counts than the others. Start at that cylinder.
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Saturday, December 15th, 2018 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)

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