Engine miss

Tiny
JIMRITT
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 BUICK ROADMASTER
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
96 buick roadmaster
after it warms up, and goes into closed loop operation, the engine has an irregular miss. I read the codes, and found one O2 sensor faulty. Replacing it cleared the code, but did not fix the problem. I also tried a different PCM, with no improvement.
The engine runs fine until it warms up.
Thursday, August 11th, 2011 AT 2:52 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check for a vacuum leak and bad plug wires/spark plugs. This can also be low fuel pressure as well as a bad injector which won't set codes until it sees a miss. But with the mileage you have check compression on all cylinders, you may have a burnt valve. You shold have 41-47 psi. Fuel pressure. All compression readings should be within20% of each other.
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Thursday, August 11th, 2011 AT 4:46 PM
Tiny
JIMRITT
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  • 4 POSTS
Here is a little more info:
This started suddenly about a month ago. I thought it was the fuel pump because it acted this way about 2 years ago and the fuel pump was the cause. I also changed the fuel filter at that time. When the car is cold, it runs fine. After I changed these, I thought it was fixed because I drove it about 5 miles and it worked OK. My wife drove to town (20 miles) and it started doing it again. I scanned the PCM (OBD2)and I found the bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor had stopped reporting. Replacing the sensor fixed that problem. The engine still missed, but still ONLY AFTER IT WARMS UP. The things you suggest would also affect it when it is cold. I also tried another PCM, to no avail. If I stop, turn it off, then restart, it is OK until it goes into closed loop operation again, then starts chugging and missing randomly. Also, reverse doesn't work well (after it goes into closed loop). Any other ideas?
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Thursday, August 11th, 2011 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Actually a partially clogged injector wouldn't because in open loop the enigne runs richer and hides stuff like vacuum leaks and air ratio isn't set in open loop whereas it is in closed loop (warmed up) you also have that distributor under the water pump and those are notorious for failing all of a sudden. It still can be a vacuum leak as well. If you are restarting it after itis warm thenit is in closed loop right away so it would suggest to me a distributor problem as it only goes for a while. Before returning.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
JIMRITT
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OK. I will check the distributor, make sure the vac line is still connected at both ends. (It pulls fresh air from the intake to keep out moisture build-up) I will run some injector cleaner through the fuel. I will get back to you. Thanks.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
JIMRITT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I'm back.
My wife had surgery, so I was busy. I looked under the distributor, and the vac lines are intact. I don't know what else I can do to check out the distributor except replace it. (Expensive) I will put a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank, and drive it. Hope it fixes the problem.
Any other suggestions?
Jim
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Friday, August 19th, 2011 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This should set a code if it misses. Thre are two types of injector cleaner. Over the counter and pro type. Pro type do not go through the fuel system other than the rail. But check the resistanceon the injectors, it shold 11.8-12.6 ohms. If it's higher therein may lie your problem when warm. And is your fuel pressure up to snuff. Also spark plugs can act the way you are describing ok cold but get hot and they screw up.
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Friday, August 19th, 2011 AT 7:04 PM

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