1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Car dies

STEVENCROUCH23

MEMBER
1995 MITSUBISHI 3000GT
3.0L
V6
FWD
MANUAL
122,000 MILES

I got new spark plugs with the gap at 0.42 when i start the car it revs up to 2k rpm then dies. I re-did everything over again. rechecked gaps, made sure wires were on correctly, made sure all hoses/wires were properly connected. And when I start her up same thing.. revs to 2k rpm whines then dies. If I give it some gas it will stay running for a bit.. it'll bog down to about 700rpm and just slowly drop it'll stay on for a good minute at most. The whining starts at about 2k rpm then goes away after. SO, what I did was assume the plugs they gave me were the wrong size. Switched them out and the same exact problem.. I am absolutely stuck. Please anything will help. Here is a video of what it sounds like. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW3UxGAr8zY

5 Replies

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,945 POSTS

Was the battery recently disconnected or run dead? This is not a spark plug issue. If it was, it wouldn't run for a minute.

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Monday, February 17th, 2014 AT 4:38 PM

STEVENCROUCH23

MEMBER
4 POSTS

After this started happening I unplugged the battery for about 20 minutes while I checked everything out. It has a new battery and alternator, both new from less than a year ago. And about it running for a minute. If I start it without reving at all, it will die almost instantly, will just rev up to 2k then die. It only stays going if I keep on reving it up for a bit and stop. Maybe I over did it with a minute. Maybe 30 seconds. I was playing around with the throttle body with it on and the whistle seems like its coming from the throttle body area or intake plenum. Cant really tell

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Monday, February 17th, 2014 AT 4:44 PM

STEVENCROUCH23

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4 POSTS

Also, Forgot to mention before I did this, it ran perfectly normal. Just wanted to do a tuneup.

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Monday, February 17th, 2014 AT 4:44 PM

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,945 POSTS

I'm not clear on the timeline, but regardless, when you disconnect the battery, the Engine Computer loses its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed. Until then, it may not give you the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up, it won't stay running unless you hold the accelerator down 1/4", and it will tend to stall at stop signs. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

For this type of noise, a stethoscope is the tool of choice. All auto parts stores sell them, and you can find them at Harbor Freight Tools for about five bucks. For a mechanical whining noise, start with bearings in the idler pulleys for the serpentine belt. For a whistle, suspect a vacuum leak.

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Monday, February 17th, 2014 AT 8:15 PM

STEVENCROUCH23

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Alright thank you. Everything worked perfectly fine before the install so I hope it's just a vacuum leak, I'll mess with it in the morning. The idle was bad before I ever disconnected the battery though. The spark plugs themselves shouldn't make a huge difference should they?
One more thing I just realized a few minutes ago when I was looking at things. If it's at 1k and I lightly tap the gas it shoots up to 2k without me even doing anything, and that's where the whistle type noise takes place. Thank you for the advise though I very much appreciate it.