Clutch bleeding

Here's a guide to read, it will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throw-out-bearing-replacement

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with quick-connect clutch tube, the manufacturer recommends replacing the tube when ever hydraulic system service is necessary, because the quick-connect feature tends to trap air in the system and prevents complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include the quick-connect feature.

1. Clean area around fluid reservoir cap, then remove cap and fill reservoir with suitable DOT 3 brake fluid.
2. Loosen bleed screw on slave cylinder and wait until a steady stream of fluid is expelled, then tighten screw.
3. Depress clutch pedal to floor, wait 1-2 seconds, then release pedal as rapidly as possible. Repeat approximately 10 times.
4. Check fluid level in reservoir and fill as required.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4, then reinstall reservoir cap.
6. Hold clutch pedal to floor, crack open bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape, then close screw and release clutch pedal. Check fluid level and adjust as necessary.
7. Start engine, then depress clutch pedal and shift transmission into reverse gear. If gear clash occurs, repeat steps 3 through 6.

I don't have in-vehicle illustration. Here is the next best thing. The screw is just underneath the circled black rubber cap.

According to Chilton (the original instruction was from Mitchell1), you may bleed the slave while installed in the vehicle. You just need to be under the vehicle while performing the procedure. Make sure that you have enough rubber line to keep the old fluid away from the clutch housing.

Find the clutch slave/servo on the tranny -do the same thing as bleeding the brakes. Make sure the clutch master cylinder stays full at all times.

Try a gravity bleed. Take the top off of the fluid resivoir and open the bleeder valve let the fluid run out until there are no bubbles. Close the valve and fill the fluid. Good luck!

Depends on if it has internal or external slave cylinder, both steps are attached below.

YES turn flywheel also

Clutch is slipping or clutch master cylinder/ slave is internally leaking down and clutch is hard to disengage. Or clutch sorta starts to engage on it's own, when pedal is depressed?

If it's the later stuff, you may need to replace the Clutch master/ or slave cylinder.

The Medic

Shop: JAKES AUTOMOTIVE
Date: 9/8/2007 5:09:03 PM

The clutch master does not move enough fluid in one stroke to push the bubbles through the lines. While you are trying to get it ready for the next try the bubbles are migrating right back up the line. It's a losing battle. Then there is the BMW type that has the bleeder on the bottom. The air doesn't go to the bottom. So you must turn it upside down and bleed it before you put it on. Allright this the WHY. Now comes how I do it. I consider this the fast and EASY. Drill 1/8 hole right in the cap on the clutch master. Be sure and fill it up. Then Open the bleeder a little and carefully apply some air pressure with a nozzle to the cap. And shove the fluid down it's throat leaving a little in the m/c. Now how long you think that's gonna take? I can do it faster than it took to type this. YEP Yall dread puttin on clutch masterWell not any more. Oh yeah if the hole worries you well put a screw in it. Ain't Mitchell rocking now?

This is from Jake.

Hi there,

It should bleed up with out any problems, I would be looking for a faulty master cyl that may be drawing in air,

Mark (mhpautos)