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New brake lines. Problem with brand new caliper grabbing

Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
Slammed on the brakes to avoid a deer, brake pedal went down to the floor and I ruptured a rear brake line. Replaced the entire line from the resevor to both rear calipers, checked for leaks over 4 times. And the passenger side which has a brand new caliper does not grab. And the pedal still goes down abnormally far for a brand new brake system. Bled all the lines 3 times, even bled the master. Any ideas?
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 4:29 AM

34 Replies

Tiny
CAROLINACARCONNECTION
  • MECHANIC
  • 66 POSTS
Did you start bleading at the longest line with is right rear and then left rear then right front and fished up with the left front?
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 4:42 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Just to add to this one the problem your having is a low pedal?It wont pump up if you pump it a few times?Are your rear brakes adjusted up correctly?You can actually loose the brake pedal height and braking all together from the rear brakes being too far out of adjustment on those cars.
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 5:51 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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You have abs on that car I didnt see it had four wheel disc when I posted my answer. If you do your supposed to run the the abs pistons up in the home position before starting to bleed the brakes. Then bleed the abs modulator on the master cylinder. Then rr Lr rf and Lf calipers.
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 5:58 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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  • 162 POSTS
Being as I am a car novice, and I am having help with the car. What is the abs piston and what is the home position?
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Do you see you modulator attached to the master cylinder?Now do you see the black plastic cover on the bottom of it?Under that cover are the pistons that keeps the wheels from locking Also long time no talk by the way.
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Yes long time no talk. Just goes to show u car was running good after all that work that was done to it. Til now. I see the black box under where the steel lines connect to the master, but I am unable to get to the box at present time. I only took a quick look and didnt have a lot of time to attempt to get at it. Working 2 jobs and full time school means very limited tinker time. Im currently getting around on a motorcycle but alas a motorcycle doesnt provide much protection at all from the rain.
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
I used to only have a motor cycle and had to ride rain or shine so I know what thats like. There is nothing to get at I will get you some more info later.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 3:28 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
I feel at a loss and a little too much like a novice with how many questions I feel compelled to ask. But hopefully the end result will be my car back on the road. Thanks louie.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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More info to come.
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Wednesday, August 15th, 2012 AT 11:52 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I just posted the two wires for the rear motor/piston so you can unplug the motor pack and jump power and ground to those two wires to run the piston up then down when done bleeding. Heres the problem I dont know which way to run the power for each position.I have always just used the tech1 because I had one at the dealers I worked.
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Thursday, August 16th, 2012 AT 12:02 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
I am still confused about this home position. How do I know when these pistons are in the right position? Or are you talking about using these pistons to bleed the wheels instead of the brake pedal?
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Thursday, August 23rd, 2012 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Its only the rear piston that needs to be moved to the home position. The pistons is what releases pressure to keep the wheels from locking. What your doing is moving the piston out of the way to get the trapped air out. Again I don't know the correct polarity to put it in the correct positioN. Also no way of telling what position its in. Only thing I can suggest is bleed it in both positions wont hurt anything. Just becareful when first driving it since you don't know what possition the piston is in.
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Thursday, August 23rd, 2012 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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  • 162 POSTS
Well good news is i did not have to worry about jumping the pistons to home position. found this >http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146855< so i just drove the car about 100 feet or so and made sure the abs light was off when i shut the car down. then i got air out of the caliper in the rear. however i think the auto parts store may have given me the wrong caliper for the passenger side. the bleeder screw is below the line instead of above the line where all the rest are. going to be checking into it monday. thanks
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 2:07 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I have never bleed the brakes with the scan tool so good find. Also if the bleeder screw isn't at the top you have the wrong side caliper on there.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 3:49 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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  • 162 POSTS
Its the one the moron at the parts store gave me. So im gonna go back and bitch. Wasted a whole bottle of fluid cuz they screwed up. At least its driveable. We bled some of the air out by lossening and tightening the line
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 3:51 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Glad to hear your getting it figured out.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 3:56 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Thats why it was the only caliper not grabbing at all. Hopefully they will exchange it no charge if not they lost all my business. Thanks again louie. Ill let you know if it gets completely resolved.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 4:01 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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They should exchange it keep me posted and as always your welcome anytime.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
They exchanged it without trouble, but now being as the car has been sitting a while, whenever im driving down the road. I hit the clutch for a stop sign and the engine rpms go way down to either around 400 or it quits all together. Last time I cleaned the battery terminals and it solved it. Cleaned them this time but as of right now no luck. Any help?
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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So the clutch is fully releasing a not dragging causing the engine to die?
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Tuesday, August 28th, 2012 AT 7:15 PM

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