1993 Saturn SL2 5 SPD, tranny leak

Well I figured out what was exactly wrong with the tranny, the exact same thing that happened to my brothers 94 sc2, a pin inside the tranny wore a hole in the bell housing therefore causing it to leak, my other brother that I am having helping with the car pulled the tranny out the bottom found this out. The top motor mount also broke causing the engine to fall breaking the throttle cable and a rusted ac line, but thats about all the damage. So as long as the engine and tranny are out I am going to be replacing timing chain, oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, possibly main bearing seal (it went out on my brothers car causing him to pull the engine a while ago) and replacing the tranny with a used one from a junk yard. But I will be putting the new seals that I ordered into the junk yard tranny upon bringing it home to ensure that it doesnt leak because of that. Does all this sound like a good plan? And do you have any suggestions or tips? Thanks for your time louie

So the hand tools of a pvc fitting and a deadblow will work to "press" the seals into the replacement tranny correct?

On the back of the motor there is a sensor right above and slightly to the left of the crankshaft position sensor, this sensor has 2 inputs/outputs for vaccumm lines, one leads to the air intake manifold and the other leads to another shorter line that is attached to the firewall. Both of them are off and I dont know which one goes to which line. I think this is the canister purge solenoid we discussed a while ago but I am not really positive. Can you tell me which hose goes on which particular position on the sensor? We inspected the timing chain and it still looked new yet and there is only 124 thousand miles on the car so we decided no to replace the timing chain at this time. We found a new way to lift the engine as well, we attached a 2x8 board to the roof rafters of the garage and used a chain and come a long to lift the engine, hopefully it will also work for purring the engine back in after we re attach the sub frame.

Yes that is how he removed the transmission but the engine ended up coming out with it somehow, I dont know exactly how all I know is the top motor mount broke when the jack he was using to support the engine slid out from under it, accidents happen and I am kinda short on funds to be renting an engine hoist, so the come along with a thicker chain works well for lifting the engine for now being as how it is after all only a 4 cyl engine and not a monster of a v8. It works well for lowering as well and has 2 hook ups with a pulley as a center connection so it works better than you would think for lifting in a pinch. Thanks for the info bout the canister purge solenoid louie.

Yes indeed dangerous, we have done it before but not with all but one mount removed, I was not present at the time it was being done being as how my brother is the one doing most of the work. He is rather gifted when it comes to fixing cars he just tries to take too many shortcuts, hence the broken motor mount. Thanks also for the past refferal to rock auto, their prices are insanely good even with shipping and needless to say they have gotten plenty of business from my brother and myself.

So far no discount code. Shame shame because last week I placed an order totaling about $120.

We got the k frame bolted back onto the car, tie rod ends installed, ball joints are in, valve cover gasket done, ac drier and radiator installed, and ignition switch installed, wheels were put back on and set on the ground. All in all progress was made so im satisfied for the day. Still have to replace oil pan seal, attach transmission find out where all the wires go and put the works back into the car.
Next question is when we put the engine back into the car, do we have to put the engine and tranny in at the same time or can we put the tranny in, pull it aside and then lower the engine in?

Got the engine bolted onto 3 mounts to hold it in so we could get the car out of the garage it was halfway in, the come a long with the logging chain worked rather well for lowering the engine into place, granted we knew how big of a board to use with the proper bolts for mounting the logging chain. And I finally got a discount code from rock auto. Haha. One of the wires on the back of the motor we need to re attach to the wire it came off of, hopefully this should be it for fixing for a while, aside from the e brake arm that is ceased on one of the back calipers yet. After its all assembled I just need to take it in for an alignment and possible ac recharge if they are not too expencive.

When the engine dropped it broke an ac line off the radiator that was already severely corroded. And the caliper e brake arm is just really rusted, needs replacing. The ebrake still grips 1 wheel but I disconnected the cable from the rusted caliper as to not become a sitting duck.

Ok so we are almost finished with the assembly but there is a plug on the back of the motor underneath the knock sensor with a tan with black stripe wire leading to it. Im wondering what it is becase I had to re connect a segment of wire to it and the plug is now missing with a bare tan and black wire hanging there. Im wondering if you know what that particular plug is for. I looked in the haynes manual and the wiring diagrams are complicated to say the least and unclear. Hope you get back soon, thanks louie