Ford Ranger 90

Removing an engine is a big job.

REMOVAL
1. Raise the hood and install protective fender covers.
2. Drain the coolant from the radiator.
3. Disconnect air cleaner outlet tube at throttle body.
4. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the engine. Disconnect the battery positive cable at the battery and set aside.
5. Mark the location of the hood hinges and remove the hood.
6. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine.
7. Remove the radiator shroud screws.
8. Remove the radiator upper supports.
9. Remove engine fan and shroud assembly. Then, remove the radiator.
10. Remove the oil fill cap.
11. Disconnect engine wiring harness from the body wiring harness.
12. Disconnect the alternator wire from the alternator, the starter cable from the starter and the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
13. Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket and position it out of the way, leaving the refrigerant lines attached.
14. Disconnect the power brake vacuum hose.
15. Disconnect chassis fuel line fittings at the rear of the engine fuel rail.
16. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
17. Remove the engine mount nuts.
18. Raise the vehicle.
19. Drain engine oil from the crankcase.
20. Remove the starter motor.
21. Disconnect the muffler exhaust inlet pipe at the exhaust manifold.
22. Remove the flywheel dust cover.
23. Remove the flywheel housing cover attaching bolts.
24. Remove the line at the clutch slave cylinder.
25. Lower the vehicle.
26. Support the transmission and flywheel housing with a jack.
27. Remove the flywheel housing upper attaching bolts.
28. Attach the engine lifting hooks to the existing lifting brackets. Carefully, so as not to damage any components, lift the engine out of the vehicle. Install the engine on a workstand.

INSTALLATION

NOTE: When installing nuts and bolts, oil the threads with lightweight engine oil. Do not oil threads that require oil-resistant or water-resistant sealer.

1. Install the flywheel and clutch assembly. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment.
2. Start the transmission input shaft into the clutch disc. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the transmission in relation to the engine if the input shaft will not enter the clutch disc. If the engine hangs up after the shaft enters, turn the crankshaft in the clockwise direction slowly (transmission in gear), until the shaft splines mesh with the clutch disc splines.
3. Install the flywheel housing attaching bolts. Remove the engine lifting hooks from the lifting brackets.
4. Remove the jack from under the transmission and raise the vehicle.
5. Install the flywheel lower housing bolts.
6. Install the flywheel dust cover.
7. Install the line at the clutch slave cylinder.
8. Connect the exhaust inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten the bolts.
9. Install the starter motor and connect the starter cables.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Install the engine mount nuts. Tighten nuts to 88-115 Nm (65-85 ft lb).
12. Connect the heater hoses to the engine.
13. Connect the chassis fuel lines to the two fuel rail fittings.
14. Connect the power brake vacuum hose.
15. Connect the alternator wire to the alternator, and the accelerator cable to the throttle body.
16. Install the A/C compressor to the mounting bracket.
17. Connect the engine wiring harness to the body wiring harness.
18. Install the radiator and secure with upper support brackets. Install the fan and shroud assembly. Connect upper and lower radiator hoses.
19. Install the hood and align.
20. Connect air cleaner outlet tube at throttle body.
21. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
22. Fill the crankcase with specified oil.
23. Install oil fill cap.
24. Connect battery ground cable to engine and battery positive cable to battery.

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Electronic Engine Control (EEC), when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.

Auto salvage yards are best at answering these questions. Generally if the same trans was available on that motor as yours it should work. Although if yr is to far apart there may be issues that are unsolvable. Not to mention wiring and computer issues. You may find examples on internet ford forums.

Trying to go to a different engine size is a real bad idea. Most of the time the project will end up in front of your house with a "For Sale As Is" sign in the window. For sure you're going to need a larger radiator, and stiffer front springs. You already know you have the world's worst front suspension system when it comes to tire wear and alignment problems. A heavier engine is going to make that worse. Your truck has a brake proportioning valve carefully-tailored to its weight distribution and weight transfer during braking. A lot of variables go into designing that part. Engine and radiator weight, and spring stiffness are just two of them. Lawyers and insurance investigators love to find these kinds of modifications so they can shift some of the blame from their client who ran the red light and caused the crash, to you.

The 4.0L was available in '90 but what I can't tell you is if the front cross member and engine mounts will be the same. You also may need a different Engine Computer, and the exhaust pipes will likely be different. You're going to be much happier if you stick with the original engine size or go out and buy the truck you want. By the way, my cousin is currently looking for a replacement truck. He has a '97 Ranger 4.0L, with all its problems, for sale.

It should, but I have to say we only like to recommend direct replacement parts. You shouldn't have any problems, but make sure that the sensors on the old engine can be placed on the new one. There could be places missing or extra places for the newer engine. Also, the sensor holes could be different sizes.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

There is a 2.9 V6 version for this vehicle and since you are interested in changing to automatic, the best way to go about is to get a half-cut and transplant the complete system over.

Engine assy, complete with transmission, wireharness and dash.

About 8 hrs labor but there will prob add on labor for transferring partsi would figure 12 hrs labor prices vary most between 50 and 75 dollars per hr

Your welcome

I thought your last post said it had an 89 engine? Tack the cap of distrib, crank engine, watch direction of rotor, install cap and wires in that rotation. 89 has no distributor, so you need the 89 PCM(computer).

Block should be the same so it's most likley a timing issue. Pull number 1 plug, set the piston to top dead center, you can tell the compression stroke by putting your finger on the plug hole as you turn the motor by hand, turn clockwise till you feel the compression, then use a long screwdriver to judge TDC, now the timing marks should align for top dead center and the distributor should be set to fire # 1 cylinder. If the rotor points a bit before #1 thats how we want it. Not at or after!