Transmission will not up shift

Tiny
CHOCOCAT
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 DODGE VAN
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
1989 van. I am having a shifting issue in the van my friend just acquired. A 904 transmission in a 1990 Ram van 2500. It was replaced about 18,000 miles ago, in 2003.

I can get the transmission to shift in to second gear, but only at high rpm, and full throttle. I cannot get third, either it will not go or I will not take it there. Been to fifty mph and would not shift. I discovered a disconnected lockup sensor, I reconnected it but still have the same problem. I do not know much about these things, but
1. The downshift linkage was connected(although I have a question about that).
2. The downshift valve returns and moves freely.
3. No sign of damaged lines, fluid looks good, radiator fluid looks normal.

I discovered the linkage would not let the downshift valve return to a fully closed position. Shooting in the dark I adjusted that linkage to start to engage after throttle is applied. Still no change. Varnish on the valve body seems to be a likely candidate. I have added Lucas automatic transmission fix and will try the van later today and report back.

I do have a question about that throttle linkage. The linkage has a slot that the downshift shaft clips on to. Why? What is the slot for? I assumed it was to allow for a certain amount of throttle before engaging the downshift valve, but I may need some correction on that. The lever was adjusted so that even at no throttle, the valve was engaged a bit. I reasoned that was out of adjustment, making the transmission think we were giving more throttle than we actually were. I adjusted it to close all the way at no throttle, and start to engage at about quarter throttle, but it did not change anything. Is there a position that valve should be in that is not ‘fully released’ at full throttle? And why is there a slot in the linkage?
It does not seems to allow for anything that a simple hole would. Thanks
Saturday, May 12th, 2018 AT 12:05 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
Newer models use a cable instead of that linkage, and those are prone to sticking in the part throttle position. Since you obviously understand the purpose and operation of the linkage, I suspect you are on the right track with the varnish build-up. I ran into this on my 1988 Grand Voyager that used the front-wheel-drive version of the 904. I drove this van for many years, including fifteen years dragging a tandem axle enclosed trailer that is bigger and heavier than that van, to old car show swap meets. It had one fluid and filter change in its life. In all those years, I never once hit wide-open-throttle, even when pulling the trailer, so the throttle valve never got exercised throughout its full range. I suspect varnish was all I had left in there for transmission fluid, and it had coated the bore where the valve had not been running.

While experimenting with an intermittent cruise control problem, I had the bright idea to connect multiple test lights to the servo's terminals so I could see what was happening. Did not stop to realize those valves are turned on by grounding various wires, which is what the test lights did. Come time to head home for the night, when I started the engine, the servo pulled the throttle wide open and held it there until I could scramble around and turn the ignition switch off. Luckily there were no pistons going through the hood, but that is when the shifting problems started. I had to hit roughly thirty mph at low-throttle before it would go into second gear, and about sixty mph to eventually get it into third. It also down-shifted much too early when slowing down. Being the king of procrastination, as with any other "minor" problems, I ignored this one too, and every day after that, the shifting got closer to normal. Within six months of daily driving, there was no longer any hint of delayed up-shifts or early down-shifts. I never used any additive and never took anything apart. It just gradually cleared up on its own, but I was still afraid to hit wide-open-throttle after that.

That slot in the linkage is not needed for its operation. You will see the spring holds it tightly to the shaft that is pushing on it. The concern is if anything were to happen to that linkage, such as binding, rusting, catching, or anything that prevented it from returning, it would also hold the throttle open, which would be a safety concern. With the slot, no matter what happens to the linkage, the throttle can return to idle.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, May 12th, 2018 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
CHOCOCAT
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks, kinda. Love the explanation on the slotted linkage. The other stuff has me a little down today.

So I drove the van, it shifted to second and third at 38 and sixty two mph respectively. It downshifted to second at fifty five. I did this three or four times. That was probably a mistake, because when I went to park it, it stalled, and is now locking up hard and will not idle

Insert super sad face here.

Any ideas? Transmission has less than 20,000 on it, but I am afraid I may have hurt it. Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, May 14th, 2018 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
If varnish build-up is the issue, the governor valve could be sticking. That is what tells road speed to the valve body. If it sticks at above about thirty five mph, the torque converter clutch could still be locked up. GM had a common problem with that on their older front-wheel-drive cars in the 1980's. Those also caused stalling when coming to a stop, but they were electrically-controlled. The solution for a lot of people was to simply unplug the connector for the lock-up solenoid so it would never engage. That way it could not stick.

Given there is so few miles on your transmission, I would suspect a speck of dirt is causing the governor valve to stick before I would suspect varnish. It is on the output shaft inside the tail housing. If I remember correctly, you can get to it without removing the transmission. There should be a small plate on the bottom, held on with two screws. Remove that, then you will see the ends of a large snap ring. Remove the tail housing bolts, then that snap ring has to be expanded or squeezed to let a bearing slide out of the housing.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, May 14th, 2018 AT 3:36 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links